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From my limited understanding of the system I am left wondering the exact mechanism used to ensure the proper cable tension, which to me is a critical component in proper cabling, short of an inline turnbuckle, I am unsure how tensioning is achieved with this new system.

What to you is proper tension? My understanding of a proper cable system is that there should be some slack under full leaf load. Not a droop, but the system should be tensioned. The purpose is to keep the sections from move away from each other and overloading the weak union, not supporting the stem/limb and taking load off the union.
 
Varying tensions for varying applications

What to you is proper tension? My understanding of a proper cable system is that there should be some slack under full leaf load. Not a droop, but the system should be tensioned. The purpose is to keep the sections from move away from each other and overloading the weak union, not supporting the stem/limb and taking load off the union.

It depends on why I'm cabling in the 1st place. If I'm in a split crotch situation, I'll want to apply enough tension to close the split, then rod the crotch as well. It all depends on the reason I'm cabling.

I always use galvinized through eyebolts on my cables, and tensioning is a straight forward matter of turning the nuts on the eyebolts to achieve the desired cable tension, cutting off the excess bolt and mushrooming the end of the bolt to eliminate sharp edges and ensure the nut doesn't back off.

So short of ropes, come alongs etc, how is proper tensioning achieved with this nifty new product?

Bear with me here, I'm just a dumb old school kinda guy.

jomoco
 
So short of ropes, come alongs etc, how is proper tensioning achieved with this nifty new product?

This is my prefered method for closing a split for bracing. On smaller trees I'll use a truck sized ratchet strap instead of a come-along, bigger trees, slings and come-along.

Sometimes a rope in the split side, running down to The Winch. You can run a static bo'lin around multiple crotches for a straighter pull.

I feel that if you pull on the bigger wood between the brace and the cable you will not risk bowing the stems in. Get the brace done, the install the cable with the needed tension.

Having taught cables in the tree changes the dynamics and the way it will develop caliper from then on.
 
Those that i did had a contact surface like a through bolt. I do not see a differance.
how did you achieve a smooth surface termination? Don't the separated cable strands protrude past the stop, if even a small amount, thereby leaving sharp edges behind?
 
cool! I just looked at their website and see that they sell safety caps for the termination now. They didn't have those to my knowledge when I was installing them, it's been a couple of years. I never liked leaving sharp edges behind.
 
cool! I just looked at their website and see that they sell safety caps for the termination now. They didn't have those to my knowledge when I was installing them, it's been a couple of years. I never liked leaving sharp edges behind.
What s the website coydog, I punched name in and got A site.
 
It seems like there should be a washer. Also is it just probably a diminishing diameter thread that is gripping the surface (uneven surface) of the cable strands that can be expected to take repeated shock loads? Also, periodic inspection is part of the responsibility of anyone installing a cable system and there is a hidden part (in the stem) of the cable that cannot be inspected. Thanks for reposting website. Not completely turned off by it yet, though.
 
any updated opinions

Is there any updated opinions on this system out there? I was considering it for some future projects. Just looking for the good word?
 
Washers only needed if stem is hollow/crackable/weak, or if the washer is part of a system to flatten the surface for the fastener and avoid side loading.

Otherwise the less bark compression the better eh?
 
how did you achieve a smooth surface termination? Don't the separated cable strands protrude past the stop, if even a small amount, thereby leaving sharp edges behind?

I am too cheap to buy a fancy wire cutter for the EHS strand, so we just take our portable air compressor and use a die grinder to cut off the extra wire. This works pretty quick, and doesn't leave sharp ends. You could also use an extension cord and a 4" angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. I feel like the die grinder is a safer option 30' up in a tree, so that's what we use.
 
ANSI does not "bless" any specific product. Do you see any language in ANSI that speaks against the product?

If I had a system fail under extreme circumstances and a client took me to court, which anyone can do for any reason, I would want to have a system mentioned by ANSI and have installed it to ANSI standards. So should you if you still do any cabling work. CYA
 
If I had a system fail under extreme circumstances and a client took me to court, which anyone can do for any reason, I would want to have a system mentioned by ANSI and have installed it to ANSI standards. So should you if you still do any cabling work. CYA
I put in a big one 3 days ago. Thanks for all the advice; it will be taken under advisement. :monkey:
Wirestops can be installed to ANSI standards with plenty of cya, thanks. :)
 
I put in a big one 3 days ago. Thanks for all the advice; it will be taken under advisement. :monkey:
Wirestops can be installed to ANSI standards with plenty of cya, thanks. :)

How ya gonna put in a system not mentioned by ANSI to ANSI standards?:jawdrop:

You put up a "big one" a couple of days ago? Can I call you Rig-Guy?:hmm3grin2orange:
 
Washers only needed if stem is hollow/crackable/weak, or if the washer is part of a system to flatten the surface for the fastener and avoid side loading.

Otherwise the less bark compression the better eh?

Just as an FYI I cleaned up storm damage this year from a white pine that had been cabled. The leader that was cabled had failed. Upon closer inspection the person who had installed the cable some time ago did not use any washers and the nut pulled through the wood. The tree was not decayed and the cable was placed correctly about 2/3 up from the crotch in wood about 8-12" in diameter..... Mike
 
the person who had installed the cable some time ago did not use any washers and the nut pulled through the wood. The tree was not decayed and the cable was placed correctly about 2/3 up from the crotch in wood about 8-12" in diameter..... Mike
So the nut pulled through >8" of undecayed wood? That's why 33.5.10 says what it says, huh Dave? re CYA, I think I'll use washers from now on, and heed 33.5.20, and i'll be cya'd just fine, thanks!
 

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