Rookie looking for chainsaw

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Cool

Hello all, I am new to the site and this is my very first post. :) I have a very gerneral question.

I will shorty be coming into some wood courtesy of the local tree-man, I have never cut or split wood in my life (yes I'm a city boy) in any case, Can anyone recommend a chainsaw, safety equipment and possibly a splitter for a noob?

BTW, I plan on cutting about 6 cords a year. :chainsaw:

Where you at dude??? Depending on how far I'll come down with ya for a day and cut up some of that wood with ya. Getcha splittin and I'll bring the Dolmars/huskies and Stihls for you to try out... Cheers eh?

:cheers:
 
Sorry for the long winded response.

All really good advise so far. :clap:


Red, My first advise would be to get a few books and safety manuals and familiarize yourself with the process of cutting wood. Since I see you’ve got the on-line manuals covered I would recommend a couple of books. First would be a book called “The Backyard Lumberjack” and will give you the basics of what you will be doing to get your firewood ready for the fireplace/woodstove. Second would be Douglas Dent's book "Professional Timber Falling- a Procedural Approach" this is kinda considered to be the tree fallers bible of sorts and will go well beyond what you learned in the first book.

There is no substitute for hands on knowledge, and after reading those books you will be more familiar with what you’ll be doing, and should have a pretty good knowledge of what is safe and what is not, I recommend finding someone to show you how to use a saw hands on. Likely the person who “helps” you will not have read the books and will no doubt have some bad habits to pass along. He is not likely to take well to you pointing out his poor technique so unless he’s doing something that is likely to get him killed today just keep it in the back of your mind not to do it that way yourself (you can straighten him out later). Nothing will pi$$ someone off faster than asking them to show you how to do something and then tell them their doing it wrong. :laugh: Having someone there to show you how to do it will help with your level of confidence and the other person will likely keep you from doing something that is going to get you hurt.

My second piece of advice would be to get yourself some Personal Protection Equipment. Chaps or saw pants are a must as is eye, ear, and head protection. I would recommend a good “forestry” helmet with a flip up screen and muff’s attached. Peltor, Stihl, and Husqvarna all make good ones and you can find them at your local dealer or at one of the site sponsors at the top of this page. Steel toed boots and good gloves are must haves as well. Your buddy who will be teaching you how to use your new saw will likely make fun of you for wearing “all of that crap” and will probably tell you he’s been cutting for X amount of years and he’s never needed any of that crap. Just know that every time he cuts safely the odds increase that he’s going to have an accident and I think we would all rather be wearing “that crap” when it happens. The last piece of safety advice is to never cut alone, especially when your new to cutting. If you have to cut alone always tell someone where you’ll be and what time you will be home, and always keep your cell phone on you, it won’t do you any good in the truck if your bleed to death before you get there. It’s also a good idea if your going to be out cutting for an extended period of time to set up a time that you will call someone in the middle of the day, that way they will know to be worried when you don’t call and can come check on you.

As far as saws go I would buy the best saw you can afford and learn to maintain it (reading here will help).

My advice would be to find a local dealer whom you like and trust and see which brand he carries. We do a lot of bashing and what not about brands around here (and Stihl definitely makes the best saw out there) :sword: but truth be told all of the major players make excellent saws.


Cheap Stihl = MS250, or MS290 Farm Boss
Cheap Husqvarna = 350, or 455 Rancher
Cheap Jonsered = CS2150
Cheap Dolmar = 510

Pro Stihl = MS260 or MS361
Pro Husqvarna = 346XP or 357 XP
Pro Jonsered = 2152 or 2159
Pro Dolmar = PS5100s or PS6400

Used is always an option but I would stay away from fleabay until you know more about what your looking at.

Keep reading here and ask as many questions as you need to, some folks will be kinda hard on you for asking such “stupid” questions, just ignore them as they apparently already know everything there is to know and think you should to. Remember there are no stupid questions only stupid answers and those stupid answers tell more about themselves than it does about you. Good luck and cut safe.
 
There's a good video at this site. http://www.tilton.usa.jonsered.com/node246.aspx Then click downloads/video/"Working with Chainsaws". The info in this video goes for any brand of saw. Then read your manual that came with the saw. Get a loggers helmet, chainsaw chaps, gloves, and work boots. You probably need saftey glasses under the loggers helmet screen to keep out the dust. Also get the file and guide like it shows in the video.

I need to get me one of those file guides. I hate that they make it look so easy to sharpen the chain, seems like its a pain for me.
 
If just cutting up wood would not worry about getting lessons are going to school .I buy a saw that you comfortable with buy some chaps , eyeglass , ear plugs .Than start cutting and go slow dont rush . I not saying dont learn from others but you can learn on your own too . Also learn how to hand file a chain this is very important ,dont put saw in the dirt , and never put your chain on the wrong way .
 
Not really sure I would want to cut with Cisco, much less learn from him:hmm3grin2orange: (Sorry Dude, couldn't help myself!!)

For the saw, in that price range, two words, remeber them!!
HUSKY 350, HUSKY 350, HUSKY 350, HUSKY 350, HUSKY 350, AND THE HUSKY 350!!! Awsome starter saw, great power to weight, easily puls an 18" bar in hardwoods, and mods VERY well :hmm3grin2orange:
Nothing against the Dolmar 510, just a bit heavy, and I have nothing bad to say about the PLASTIC saws either!!!!:cheers:
 
You cannot be to careful. Unexpected things happen, especially falling trees and cutting limbs etc. under pressure , always be alert and ready to move. Chainsaw owners manuals are good information on falling , and bucking and other procedures.
I highly recomend some training course if you can find 1. My previous employer required it and I ve been cutting 20+ years prior and learned some neat new stuff.
Lots of good advice already.
Start with a cheap small saw,the reason I say that ,if your like most you will probably ruin a couple chains and bars learning to stay out of the dirt and keeping the chain sharp. Smaller bars and chains are usually cheaper. You will be saving money to upgrade to a bigger saw as you learn.
 
Wow you guys are awesome, and I appreciate the time that has gone into each response. I also took a look at that "chaps" video which shook me up a bit :)

However, just to clarify... I will be bucking 99 percent of the time. Logs will be dumped in my driveway and on weekends i shall try to make my way through them so falling limbs/trees isnt an immediate concern lol.

A surprising thing is how much these goodies add up to. In many cases all the PPE's end up costing more than the saw..lol (now looking at the 5100 dolmar)

My next question is: Is their a special technique anyone uses while bucking? what do you prop under the log as not to ground the saw? Or is there an attachment I can buy? Ideas anyone??
 
Wow you guys are awesome, and I appreciate the time that has gone into each response. I also took a look at that "chaps" video which shook me up a bit :)

However, just to clarify... I will be bucking 99 percent of the time. Logs will be dumped in my driveway and on weekends i shall try to make my way through them so falling limbs/trees isnt an immediate concern lol.

A surprising thing is how much these goodies add up to. In many cases all the PPE's end up costing more than the saw..lol (now looking at the 5100 dolmar)

My next question is: Is their a special technique anyone uses while bucking? what do you prop under the log as not to ground the saw? Or is there an attachment I can buy? Ideas anyone??
I don't use it much, but I have one of those timberjacks that they sell in northern tool. It works nice if you are worried about running the bar in the dirt.
 
..... A surprising thing is how much these goodies add up to. In many cases all the PPE's end up costing more than the saw..lol (now looking at the 5100 dolmar) ....

If so, forget every other saw mentioned in this tread - the 5100S is a heII of a saw for its size, and very good value for the money!!!:rockn: :rockn:

It is lighter than the 510, and has a lot more power and speed.

- but how large are those logs going to be?
 
Trees here range from 8-20 inches in diameter. :greenchainsaw:

For the most part

Agree the 5100 would be a great saw for your needs. The Husky 350 would be a good choice in the cheaper catagory. If you have a Dolmar dealer close by than go with the 5100 w/18" bar and chain.
 
Agree the 5100 would be a great saw for your needs. The Husky 350 would be a good choice in the cheaper catagory. If you have a Dolmar dealer close by than go with the 5100 w/18" bar and chain.

Yes, an 18" bar is enough for blocking 20" logs, just "overbuck" a bit, and don't get tempted to get a longer one - even consider a 16" if most logs are less than 20"
 
I will take your advise, I went to amazon for some book learnin'


1 "The New Woodburner's Handbook (Down-to-Earth Energy Book)"
Stephen Bushway; Paperback; $12.95

Sold by: Amazon.com
1 "The Backyard Lumberjack"
Frank Philbrick; Paperback; $12.89

Sold by: Amazon.com
:cheers:
 
Wow you guys are awesome, and I appreciate the time that has gone into each response. I also took a look at that "chaps" video which shook me up a bit :)

However, just to clarify... I will be bucking 99 percent of the time. Logs will be dumped in my driveway and on weekends i shall try to make my way through them so falling limbs/trees isnt an immediate concern lol.

A surprising thing is how much these goodies add up to. In many cases all the PPE's end up costing more than the saw..lol (now looking at the 5100 dolmar)

My next question is: Is their a special technique anyone uses while bucking? what do you prop under the log as not to ground the saw? Or is there an attachment I can buy? Ideas anyone??

You might be able to lay out some big limbs or some 2x4s or something for them to try to dump the logson. In the woods, I improvise, try to buck the log where it has clearance and lay the pieces down on limbs, but I also mess up and bury the chain in the ground so I do a lot of on the spot filing. I've pounded wedges (which you should also add to your shopping list..wedges:falling type, plastic) under a log to raise it some, and I find myself thinking about a peavy. You will probably run the saw into the ground but this gives you filing practice. A hot tub/jacuzzi is a good thing to have for apres cutting. :greenchainsaw:

And be sure that your clothing is color coordinated.
 
You might be able to lay out some big limbs or some 2x4s or something for them to try to dump the logson. In the woods, I improvise, try to buck the log where it has clearance and lay the pieces down on limbs, but I also mess up and bury the chain in the ground so I do a lot of on the spot filing. I've pounded wedges (which you should also add to your shopping list..wedges:falling type, plastic) under a log to raise it some, and I find myself thinking about a peavy. You will probably run the saw into the ground but this gives you filing practice. A hot tub/jacuzzi is a good thing to have for apres cutting. :greenchainsaw:

And be sure that your clothing is color coordinated.
Ya beat me to it Slowp, my thoughts too :cheers: If this is going to be a regular thing pick a spot and lay down some smaller lengths of logs of approximately the same diameter, about 6" should do it, have your loads dumped beside and roll 'em on with peavy or enthusiastic helpers, and cut one at a time. I like building up a nice workin' spot with a good layer of sawdust too, get rid of any rocks first of course, makes for a bit of 'safety zone'. A peavy (log cant/roller) and a pic-a-roon (no idea what a 'roon' is) are invaluable labour-saving tools esp if on your own. Some excellent advice so far above ^^^, no point getting into the 'which saw' arena but I am very pleased with my ms270 so far.........................oops!

:cheers: & Welcome to AS

Serge
 
When I used to deal with piles of log length firewood I'd put my longest bar on one of my big saws and buck through the whole pile one bar length at a time.

For one log at a time look at something in the 50-60 cc range, the better saws will make you happier in the long run.

If you want to go really cheap look for an old homelite XL series. No anti-vibe but will handle 20" fine, I see running ones for ca. $50 all the time.

For spilting 2-8 lb mauls and some steel wedges. Minus the safety equipment can all be had for ca. $100 total
 
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