I have the Oregon clamp on guide too but it seems that the angle scale on the left and right side were off a small amount from one side to the other.After a few sharpenings the saw wanted to cut to one side.I bought a Granfers and solved the problem.
Sharpening
- Thread starter Sandhill Crane
- Start date
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I have the Oregon clamp on guide too but it seems that the angle scale on the left and right side were off a small amount from one side to the other.After a few sharpenings the saw wanted to cut to one side.I bought a Granfers and solved the problem.
I'd recommend the granberg.
Lots of info and photos in this thread:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/
Also a lot of customer reviews for each on Amazon (search by model numbers). Clearly, people have preferences for each.
Objectively, the Oregon 557849 is physically larger and heavier, The parts are better finished. Oregon also makes a smaller, less expensive version (model #23820).
The Granberg Model# G-106B is closer in size to the smaller Oregon model. The parts are made out of some type of pot metal which need to be smoothed out IMO.
All of these work. Older versions also available on eBay, etc.
Philbert
bigfellascott
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Is the side you are concerned about your weak side? (we all have a strong and weak side when it comes to filing apparently)
I too use the Stihl 2in1 and find it a ripper little setup, my mate wasn't sure about it at first but has now been converted and bought an aftermarket version (identical just blue instead of the stihl colour) we cut around 50-60ton a year and the 2in1 just speeds up the sharpening process for us and we get great results (we swap out files when we feel they aren't working as well as they should).
Simple to use, fast and efficient, what's not to like about that.
I too use the Stihl 2in1 and find it a ripper little setup, my mate wasn't sure about it at first but has now been converted and bought an aftermarket version (identical just blue instead of the stihl colour) we cut around 50-60ton a year and the 2in1 just speeds up the sharpening process for us and we get great results (we swap out files when we feel they aren't working as well as they should).
Simple to use, fast and efficient, what's not to like about that.
alleyyooper
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Don't any of you use a file card? Just beating the file on some thing to get the filings out dulls the file too.
Al
Al
I'm with bigfellascott on Stihls 2and 1. Simple and great results. I do add a step now, and that is to take the rakers down an extra stroke or two with a flat file and then another stroke on the front of the rakers to round them. The saw pulls nicely into the wood and floats thru Oak up to 14"-16". On larger wood it seems a little aggressive for a 4.4 hp saw and works it a little. On bigger wood this week I used a 661 and 25" bar with good results cutting Beach.
If I beat the file I just tap the tip on something, mostly I just rub it on my pantsleg.Don't any of you use a file card? Just beating the file on some thing to get the filings out dulls the file too.
I try to keep my files clean as possible. Maybe there is a better way. I wash them once in a while with straight gas to get the oil off of them. I use a rag pretty often to wipe them off. Not my pants leg. When I sharpen a chain I look for a piece of softer wood to clean the chain off a bit before sharpening. I have never really used a guide. I learned to sharpen my saw by hand when I was 14 so when trying to set up a guide it seemed so weird. I worked for a Stihl dealer when in my 20s and set up a Stihl grinder for customers. I buy files by the dozens so forget to know how long a files lasts. Thanks
I have one, it hangs on the bench close at hand, and use it often but mostly on flat wood rasps and metal files. The round chain saw files I use Tap Magic, a cutting fluid to float the filings away.
panolo
Seldom right...Always opinionated!
I read this thread and bought the Stihl 2-1 and the Timberline. I like them both but think the 2-1 is easier and does a little better job for my skill level, especially in the field. Although I think it might be easier to be a little more uniform with the timberline. Thank for all the tips guys.
NSMaple1
Addicted to ArboristSite
My 360/20" is still getting under my skin. I thought I had it figured out when i last posted. I haven't used it much since, but had it out over the weekend. Didn't get too far into felling a big spruce stub before it started cutting crooked again. I don't think i hit anything. When I was at it before, I thought I had convinced myself it had more hook on the side that it was cutting towards, so I set about refiling to fix that and it seemed to work. When I sat down with it on Sunday after getting the spruce taken care of, it looked like the opposite was the case. More hook on the site opposite to the way it was curving. Not sure I'll get back out with it this year again or not.
Key thing is finding something that works for you!
Philbert
P.S. You should be able to recoup some of your investment in the Timberline in the Trading Post, Craigslist, etc.
Maybe try a new chain to rule out a bar problem?
'Hook', angles, cutter lengths, depth gauges, should be the same on both sides.
Philbert
bigfellascott
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Find the shortest cutter on the chain, use a shifter to measure it (then use the shifter as a guide to see if each cutter is the same length, if they aren't file them down until the shifter fits over them as well, that's the best way I know of to making sure each cutter is the same length (when they are longer on one side compared to the other you usually get the bannana cuts as I call em, other option is a worn bar.
Went out todau tp noodle some 32" rounds down to sizes I can load. MS361/20" and MS441/25". Bothe with scip tooth chains I filed just yesterday using a clamp on guide. Niether one would cut for crap. Changed chains on 441 to a chain I filed last week. Cut great. Last time that happened I found the problem was setting the wrong angle on the file guide. Tooth felt razor sharp at the point but definitely dull forabout the last half of the tooth. Live and learn...again. I haven't checked the guide yet but those two chains are back on the 'to be filed" nail.
Just because you 'filed' it, does not mean that you 'sharpened' it!
Philbert
Philbert
NSMaple1
Addicted to ArboristSite
I went thru all that a couple months ago and thought I had myself sorted. The main thing I haven't determined or got my head around is this : if your cutters are all the same length and height, but one side has more hook than the other, does it pull/curve to that side or away from it?
I also went through my bar and am 95% sure it is fine. Also cuts the same when flipped.
Check the bar. Does it have a burr on one side and not the other? Flip the bar and check that side. If so, use your raker file and lay it flat on the bar to remove the burs. Then, using a bar file guide dress the top and bottom of the bar. These guides are inexpensive and used to level and true the top and bottom edge of the bar. Then check it with a small square.
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