Shop Re-Sharpened Chains vs. Factory

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I like it! 'Use of indigenous materials'!

Some of the expensive auto grinders use weights or springs to hold the bottom of the loop(s) in place - might give you some other ideas.

Philbert
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This all you need to make them better then factory . First timers takes about 5 sharpening to get the hang of it . And you'll be on your way .
key point is set vise to 10 degrees ( Oregon chains ) the right way and don't hit the chain links set the the stop down correct . you will say
wow I should of bought one along time ago ... ( that's what I said :) and you need to get good at dressing grind wheel to right radius . Gauge and
instructions come with it . only thing was bad in the instructions was they didn't explain the 10 degree vise very well .. otherwise its priceless .
I have 2 one for sharpening and one to set rakers .. Had this style since 2011 ( 90 cord ago ) before that I had cheaper Oregon sharpener with 4 inch wheel .
These are my findings others may differ ..:chainsaw: :pingpong: :drinkingcoffee:

Woodblocker55
I too have one of these and consider it very nearly as good as the 511 oregons which I have two of.
 
I too have one of these and consider it very nearly as good as the 511 oregons which I have two of.
I got another one on special sale $79 crazy thats great deal just wheels would cost that much . It sharped my chains for last 5 years maybe 25 sharpens a year.

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I too have one of these and consider it very nearly as good as the 511 oregons which I have two of.

I do 40 to 50 sharpening a season with my Oregon clone. It took some fussing with (an extra washer underneath) to get the swivel plate to tighten down properly, and then I have never had a single problem with the machine.
 
I do 40 to 50 sharpening a season with my Oregon clone. It took some fussing with (an extra washer underneath) to get the swivel plate to tighten down properly, and then I have never had a single problem with the machine.
Have you tried it with different wheels to see if there is a performance difference?

Philbert
 
I'm still on my original wheels. They don't wear out lol. Maybe 4 years now . Needs dressing about every 2 sharpenings of a 16 inch chain .

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The CBN wheels are suppose to generate less heat for more aggressive metal removal. On badly rocked chains, that would be nice. With the original wheels, and a rocked chain, I have had to make 3, 4, or 5 passes to get a good edge without burning the cutters. Not fun.

I'm still on my original wheels. They don't wear out lol. Maybe 4 years now . Needs dressing about every 2 sharpenings of a 16 inch chain .

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I only have the ceramic wheels that came with the grinder. The CBN wheels are on my wish list after the ceramic and its replacement wheel dies.
The CBN wheels are suppose to generate less heat for more aggressive metal removal.

I appear to be in the minority, but prefer a well-dressed vitrified (e.g. 'pink') wheel. The CBN wheels I tried generate less dust, but I can still easily overheat a cutter with them. Especially STIHL cutters for some reason.

I have used various 'pink' wheels, and tried a Tecomec 'brown' wheel (the color, of course, is just added, and can vary with manufacturer), along with resinoid wheels:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/resinoid-grinder-wheels.256733/

One of the biggest differences I noted was replacing a fine, OEM wheel with a coarser, Oregon replacement wheel, when comparing some of the smaller, cheaper grinders:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/oregon-310-mini-grinder.283691/ (Post #11)
"Tried the replacement wheel today. BIG difference! Almost like comparing a sharp and dull chain. It was so much fun that I grabbed another chain to sharpen!"

Makes sense, right? If a sharp chain makes a big difference on a saw, a better wheel will do the same on a grinder.

Philbert
 
I agree and believe you. I have read and was told by 'experts' here that the CBN wheels are superior in all ways. I tend to treat experts here with a good measure of skepticism and have resisted spending $100+ to confirm what I naturally doubt. The pink wheels work fine for now.

I appear to be in the minority, but prefer a well-dressed vitrified (e.g. 'pink') wheel. The CBN wheels I tried generate less dust, but I can still easily overheat a cutter with them. Especially STIHL cutters for some reason.

I have used various 'pink' wheels, and tried a Tecomec 'brown' wheel (the color, of course, is just added, and can vary with manufacturer), along with resinoid wheels:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/resinoid-grinder-wheels.256733/

One of the biggest differences I noted was replacing a fine, OEM wheel with a coarser, Oregon replacement wheel, when comparing some of the smaller, cheaper grinders:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/oregon-310-mini-grinder.283691/ (Post #11)
"Tried the replacement wheel today. BIG difference! Almost like comparing a sharp and dull chain. It was so much fun that I grabbed another chain to sharpen!"

Makes sense, right? If a sharp chain makes a big difference on a saw, a better wheel will do the same on a grinder.

Philbert
 
I bought the CBN wheels from Bailey's to replace the pink wheels that came with my Carlton grinder, I much prefer the CBN, cuts faster with less heat and so far they (I have both the 1/8 and 3/16" for different size chains) have held up extremely well. I started grinding chains using the pink wheels that came with the Carlton and developed the tap-tap-tap method to minimize heating the cutters, a technique that has carried over to grinding chains with the CBN wheels.

Mark
 

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