Should I drop this tree?

[JT78]

I have this Hickory tree that is leaning right toward where I am planning on building my new garage and I am wondering if I should drop it before I start building or if it should be solid. I dont want it to fall on my garage a year or 2 from now.

Here are some pics of the tree

 

[JT78]

oops sorry the pics are sideways

 

[Ed Roland]

Hello Jt, as a basic rule:

defect + target = hazard. looks like you got yourself a hazard tree there. It is quite mature and cabling bracing will do little to mitigate the safety issue.

Have it safely dropped by a certified pro.

 

[BayouTree]

That cavity looks pretty nasty, plus the codominate stems are probably weakly attached due to the narrow branch angle. Some close-up pics may help show how bad the decay is in that cavity, but I'd vote to remove before you start construction of your garage. It looks like you have plenty of room to replant in that area if you choose.

 

[JT78]

The cavity goes in about 6 inches the tree is leaning more to the right. I am just wondering if it is going to split when it is cut. I thought of paying somebody to cut it down and then clean the mess myself.

 

[Ed Roland]

The cavity goes in about 6 inches the tree is leaning more to the right. I am just wondering if it is going to split when it is cut. I thought of paying somebody to cut it down and then clean the mess myself.

This is an excellent way to reduce your costs. I would not want to give up the firewood anyway.

Expect to pay $50-65 an hr for each arborist on site.

 

[JT78]

I had painted some felling marks on the tree but here are some more pics. I am going to call a tree company to give me an estimate.

 

[randyg]

Do Not Drop That Tree

Very wise choice to get a quote. Two or three might be better. Hard to judge distances in photos, so hard to tell if there is even room to tip either tree. Yes I believe they should both come down as separate trees although they are co-dominant leaders of same tree, the seam runs well down below where you drew those felling cuts and those leaders will certainly want to separate at some point. Perhaps tops will have to come out first, and then stems dropped, like I said, hard to judge from here. I would plan on getting as many quotes as necessary till I found a cutter with insurance and experience, someone whom I felt confident in their ability. This does not appear to be a very complicated felling job, but one I would put in the hands of a pro. Have them explain how they plan on putting the wood on the ground, and if they take longer than about 10 seconds to begin the reply, you probably should make another phone call, you just may have a rookie. Multiple quotes is to find someone who is going to do the job right, not to find cheap. Cheap will usually cost more in the end.

 

[JT78]

Thanks for the replies I have a company that my family has always used they have been certified and have been in the business for over 20 years if anyone gets the job it will be them. I just wanted to see if you all thought it was something that could just be dropped or if it was better left to the pros. There is enough room to drop the tree I am just worried it will split. I have dropped many trees and a few were much larger just all one tree instead of this situation. Again thanks for the advice I will leave this one for the pros to drop then I will have some fun with my 7900 once it is down.

 

[Ianab]

Again thanks for the advice I will leave this one for the pros to drop then I will have some fun with my 7900 once it is down.

Good choice - that thing looks NASTY.

No way I would want to have at it with a saw or build something under it.

Cant really be sure how much of that butt is solid wood, and how much is just bugs holding hands

Cheers

Ian

 

[treeseer]

I will have some fun with my 7900 once it is down.

If you are hankerin to cut wood, then your mind is made up. Truth is, neither the cavity or the split looks a high risk to fail, and if they were, installing a cable would be a cheap and effective solution.

Defect + target = hazard, true, in the most simplistic sense. All urban trees are hazards, according to that formula, because all urban trees have defects and targets. There are many ways to reduce risk; making firewood is only one.

Cut all you want; it is your tree. But don't pretend you got competent advice by going to a treecutter's forum.

:greenchainsaw:

 

[sawinredneck]

Cutting at those marks is not a good idea! IMO.

Included bark between the two leaders may cause the leader on the side of your back cut to settle down on your saw. If you use a wedge to keep the kerf open it may enable you to cut until the back leader falls off......in the opposite direction you intended ..and in the tree fellers direction.

I have to agree 100% with Dan on this one!!! MAYBE if you made you're notch on the defective side and did the back cut on the other side. But it's a crap shoot, you don't know how deep the defect really is, ho hollow the tree really is, to many variables!
Cutting off he co-doms seperatly affords the safety of not having the base split and them going there own way on the way down!!!
It looks like the one is an easy drop, and the other one could be notched and wedged to fall parelel to the old barn, but it's easy to be an armchair QB, and I am not standing there looking at them!

 

[oldirty]

If you are hankerin to cut wood, then your mind is made up. Truth is, neither the cavity or the split looks a high risk to fail, and if they were, installing a cable would be a cheap and effective solution.

Defect + target = hazard, true, in the most simplistic sense. All urban trees are hazards, according to that formula, because all urban trees have defects and targets. There are many ways to reduce risk; making firewood is only one.

Cut all you want; it is your tree. But don't pretend you got competent advice by going to a treecutter's forum.

:greenchainsaw:

after being on this site for over a year now i have come to look for your take on alot of these topics that get covered.

do you mind if i ask you this question?

you really dont think that cavity is a problem? or see it being a problem after construction of the garage? the root zone will probably get smothered from all the action that'll be going on.

just lighten it up and throw a cable in it and that will fix it?

i cant agree with this assessment treeseer. i might not have all the titles you have in the arbo world but my call would be to climb that tree and take it down.

the man wants to play with the 7900 too right? might as well leave a couple sticks for him to drop so he can repaint those felling cuts and have at it.

 

[JT78]

I feel like the advice that I have received from the people on this forum has been very good competent advice. Like I said I have cut down a lot of trees and this one made me a little uneasy and if I feel uneasy Im not afraid to ask for help. As long as I have been cutting wood I have learned if I feel uneasy it is for a reason I try to listen to my gut. I have read too many articles where someone has been killed because they didnt know their limits. I painted the felling marks so I could let everyone see where the tree was going to be cut so they could give a better idea of what the result would be. I will post back and let yall know what the tree company quotes me. Thanks for your time it is much appreciated.

 

[Ed Roland]

If you are hankerin to cut wood, then your mind is made up. Truth is, neither the cavity or the split looks a high risk to fail, and if they were, installing a cable would be a cheap and effective solution.

A cable installed in this tree would be like putting hubcaps on a tractor! Removing this hazard tree before a structure is erected under it will save quite a bit of money and give the homeowner the confidence that he and his family are safe inside the new addition.

Defect + target = hazard, true, in the most simplistic sense. All urban trees are hazards, according to that formula, because all urban trees have defects and targets. There are many ways to reduce risk; making firewood is only one. :greenchainsaw:

Ok, then ALL urban trees are a risk. Every tree will eventually fail.
In an urban setting we, as certified arborist, have to be very careful when assessing tree health and risk of failure. Tree preservation at the risk of public safety is absurd. For approximately the same price as having a cable installed, the tree could be removed and the risk of damage to the new building along with it.

Cut all you want; it is your tree. But don't pretend you got competent advice by going to a treecutter's forum.

:greenchainsaw:

I enjoy irony.

 

[JT78]

Well heres the verdict the arborist I had look at it says he wouldnt feel safe letting anyone climb it so they would use their bucket truck and block it down. He quoted me 400 to drop it so I am going to pay him to bring it down. He also said he was very surprised that it had not split and fallen before now.

 

[BayouTree]

Sounds like it would be money well spent.

 

[timberwolf tree]

have a professional cut it now before you build (price, not so bad )

have a professional cut it after you build your shed (price, instant :crazy1: :crazy1: :crazy1: :crazy1: heart attack )

 

[sawinredneck]

$400!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:jawdrop:

For a bucket truck, and block it down? I couldn't have opened my wallet fast enough!!!!!!
That is a heck of a buy!!! Most I know wont touch a tree, that has to be climbed or bucketed, for under $600!!!

Nobody was putting you down for asking, I think you got some very good advice. And I commend you for listening to you're gut!!! I have found mine is usually right as well!!!

 

[treeseer]

the arborist I had look at it says he wouldnt feel safe letting anyone climb it...he was very surprised that it had not split and fallen before now.

Effective sales technique; conjuring fear. I think most climbers know hickory well enough to trust climbing a tree with all that woundwood. But $400 sounds reasonable.

Nevertheless, the wood will burn hot, and it's also good for smoking meat on the grill.

After you build the shed, you may want to plant a tree or two to shade it.