Should I drop this tree?

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I love too see this.

A homeowner, but some one who has used a saw has some knowledge but most of all knows there limits...and his willing to go and spend a few bucks.

Note. i think 400 is a very good price.

And like you said your 7900 will def. get some use...

Next year firewood is to a start.

Enjoy the new garage.

Canyon
 
after being on this site for over a year now i have come to look for your take on alot of these topics that get covered.

do you mind if i ask you this question?

you really dont think that cavity is a problem? or see it being a problem after construction of the garage? the root zone will probably get smothered from all the action that'll be going on.

just lighten it up and throw a cable in it and that will fix it?

i cant agree with this assessment treeseer. i might not have all the titles you have in the arbo world but my call would be to climb that tree and take it down.

the man wants to play with the 7900 too right? might as well leave a couple sticks for him to drop so he can repaint those felling cuts and have at it.



treeseer, do you have me on your ignore list man?

i asked you a question.


and i wouldve climbed it and put it on the ground for 300. brush stays right?
easy money that tree.
 
Glad you didn't try to cut that at the base, it would not have worked because that tree is two separate halves all the way to the ground. Each half has to be treated as a separate tree.

$400 is a fair price. He should be in and out of there in less than an hour or so.

It's always nice to save a tree when possible, but in this case your money might be better spent planting a high quality tree to replace it, once the garage is done. You might even find a Hickory, only this time with a single stem.
 
treeseer, do you have me on your ignore list man?
Nah, I don't have an ignore list, I just missed the post. re risk assessment, we can't give a competent opinion from our computers. Cavities are not a big strength loss if there is a lot of woundwood, and we do not know how careless the construction would be. All this is moot; it will be good firewood--after it is split.
and i wouldve climbed it and put it on the ground for 300. brush stays right?
easy money that tree.
On that we agree 100%. :heart:
 
i would put my big 78 cat bucket right against the back of the tree, make the box and send her on down and carry the tree to the town dump..
-jerry
 
You got a good price on the takedown and you'll have plenty of fun with the 7900 getting your 2009 firewood pile started.

I paid $700 to takedown a tree in my yard last summer if that helps you feel good about the quote. :)
 
Good choice.

Tree is a hazard and it's a lot easier and less expensive to remove it now, before the garage is built.

$400 is a good price. That's around what I would charge in our market, though based on the photos, I don't see a real problem with putting a climber in it. Of course there's a big difference between a photo and actually standing there sometimes. With no clean up or cutting up of the wood, I think we'd throw in chipping with the $400, looks like easy access and not a lot of brush anyways.

:cheers:
 
i would put my big 78 cat bucket right against the back of the tree, make the box and send her on down and carry the tree to the town dump..
-jerry

Interesting idea. Kind of like cutting birthday cake with a chain saw. AND you would take Hickory to the DUMP?

Listen, that Green Paper in your wallet is going to rot, feel free to throw it in my waste basket.


I have pushed a couple of trees over in my time. Usually saplings or pines. Never something with a stump and root system like this.
 
Interesting idea. Kind of like cutting birthday cake with a chain saw. AND you would take Hickory to the DUMP?

Listen, that Green Paper in your wallet is going to rot, feel free to throw it in my waste basket.


I have pushed a couple of trees over in my time. Usually saplings or pines. Never something with a stump and root system like this.
No **** man! It'd be intereting to watch someone try to pust over a tree like that while sitting on the frikken roots, oi. :dizzy: :greenchainsaw:
To the dump???? iyiyiyiyiyiyiyiyiyi :monkey:

Mentioned a few posts back a quote of 400$ to piece it down, thats pretty fair in my book. You could buck it up at 10" or less (using canola oil) and probably do pretty good selling it to people who smoke/cook with it, man I wish it grew up here I love hickory's flavour!
A wee 0.02 blather fer the afternoon cocktail hour :D

:cheers:

Serge
 
Interesting idea. Kind of like cutting birthday cake with a chain saw. AND you would take Hickory to the DUMP?

Listen, that Green Paper in your wallet is going to rot, feel free to throw it in my waste basket.


I have pushed a couple of trees over in my time. Usually saplings or pines. Never something with a stump and root system like this.

Ive seen many styles of doing things 65 years in the business i was just trying to give an honest opinion of how easily i could do it. And also young man my money would overfill your waste basket and whatever else you want to fill up.
 
Good Question

Drop the defective tree now, or after building a garage for it to land on??

That tree needs to go. Get several estimates and go with the one you like best. Make sure to confirm insurance.
IMO, set a pull line in it and pull both leads at the same time with pull line around BOTH leads. Notch as low as possible considering holding wood available and proceed slowly with the saw on both notch cut and back cut especially. When in doubt, use something other than hand pulling; ie, tractor, truck, come-along.
DO NOT try this yourself! Hard to tell from pictures, but the tree doesn't care if it falls on you, your house, your car/truck....you get the idea.

Should not be a hard job from my chair.

Beaver :greenchainsaw:
 
Drop the defective tree now, or after building a garage for it to land on??

That tree needs to go. Get several estimates and go with the one you like best. Make sure to confirm insurance.
IMO, set a pull line in it and pull both leads at the same time with pull line around BOTH leads. Notch as low as possible considering holding wood available and proceed slowly with the saw on both notch cut and back cut especially. When in doubt, use something other than hand pulling; ie, tractor, truck, come-along.
DO NOT try this yourself! Hard to tell from pictures, but the tree doesn't care if it falls on you, your house, your car/truck....you get the idea.

Should not be a hard job from my chair.

Beaver :greenchainsaw:

the job got bid at 4hunge man. he's not going to be able to top that bid.

you read the thread? lol
 
Ive seen many styles of doing things 65 years in the business i was just trying to give an honest opinion of how easily i could do it. And also young man my money would overfill your waste basket and whatever else you want to fill up.

OK:dizzy:

Listen, I have a cake that needs to get cut, should I use the 18" or 36" chain saw. :chainsaw: :clap:
 
how about lng24 and spreg get a room at a holiday inn and discuss cutting birthday cakes over a hot cup of tea you egotistical #######
 
I just wanted to see if you all thought it was something that could just be dropped or if it was better left to the pros. There is enough room to drop the tree I am just worried it will split. n.

Took another look and have a different approach. IF those two leaders separate at shoulder height or a little below which it looks like they do, I would chuck up my cabling 7/16 bit in the cordless drill and bore a hole straight through the center of each leader, straight in line with the direction you want them to go. IF they are both solid at shoulder height or lower, I can't think of a reason not to just notch and drop them one at a time right at the bore holes. Big shot a pull rope in them if any doubt about direction, twice the hinge wood on up hill side if side lean a factor, and pull em over. IF you find any rot, spend the 400.
 

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