Some advice needed for my Stihl 250

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Winchester356

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The chain is locked up like the chain brake is locked. I have attempted several times to disengage the chainbrake but the chain still want move what could be causing this?
 
Maybe start by taking the bar and chain off the saw. Your sprocket nose may be full of wood. If so, clean out the wood till the sprocket turns freely.
If that's not it then go back to your saw and look at the brake etc.
 
I would also start by removing the bar and checking the sprocket nose, if not then return to the saw. Try to remove the drive sprocket, if that comes off then it's probably something in the spring assy. There's a few screws and a side cover comes off, the chain brake assy is under that.
 
I ran into an almost new 025 years ago that the owner said was lockedup???
The chain brake assembly band etc. was packed full of saw dust. After a good cleaning the $100 locked up saw has ran for 6 to 7 years. It has need cleaning once more during that time. Cant tell you how but take some parts off in the brake area and blow it out good.
 
Just blow out the sprocket nose gear really good this has happening to me while clearing out a cotton wood tree

Hope this is all it is for you :msp_wink:
 
Have you changed chain, sprocket or bar since it last worked? If it's not the brake, it could be a mismatch in pitch between your chain, sprocket, or bar. Trying to run a 3/8 chain on a .325 sprocket will bind up like the brake is on.
 
Yea it appears to be the sprocket nose locked up, I've been cleaning it and got it turning a little. It's still a hard to turn though.
Looks like that sprocket nose is "Permanently unlubricated". I have often wondered why they make permanently lubricated bars that no longer have small holes for greasing the sprocket tips.

Perhaps the oiler needs to be opened up for more flow. See the Owners Manual. Oh, and BTW, you do use good bar and chain oil. Right? Not crankcase oil or something similar?
 
Looks like that sprocket nose is "Permanently unlubricated". I have often wondered why they make permanently lubricated bars that no longer have small holes for greasing the sprocket tips.

Perhaps the oiler needs to be opened up for more flow. See the Owners Manual. Oh, and BTW, you do use good bar and chain oil. Right? Not crankcase oil or something similar?

Been running some used motor oil through it that may be the problem.
 
Been running some used motor oil through it that may be the problem.

yes thats your problem go out and get you a quart of trans fuild and let the bar tip soak for about 1 to 2 days and then see how good it turns and then while that is soaking good and get some good bar and chain oil for it.
 
yes thats your problem go out and get you a quart of trans fuild and let the bar tip soak for about 1 to 2 days and then see how good it turns and then while that is soaking good and get some good bar and chain oil for it.

I let it soak a couple of days in oil and it loosened up.
 
Sticking the chain is not uncommon. Next time it happens, drag the chain across the wood as soon as it sticks.
Good point, Brad. I have done this many times. The chain will lock up right after a cut. The clutch and the motor cannot free it up. Mechanically dragging will usually do it, pushing the chain against the log.

That chain lockup can occur even when using the best of bar oils. Sometimes I can cut all day without it happening. The next day it will lockup several times. The variables causing it are huge. :bang:
 
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