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I follow a similar program..............except I don't often run MMO in the 'modern' vehicles (only because I drive so dang much). I do run MMO and StaBil in the old Internationals and my Diesel Ford, as they don't get driven much.

I use it on my suv because it sits quite a bit. I only drive about 4000 to 5000 miles a year on it. I might be switching over to marine sta-bil if the miles go down anymore.

Mike
 
I just put some Sta-bil in my Kohler generator after I filled it with gas...talk about an engine that sits a lot, it only gets used when we have an electrical storm and the electricity goes out for an extended time. It's several years old now and fired on the third pull...guess I'm lucky!
 
This is what I use. It can be bought at most automotive supplies stores and Walmart in the marine section.

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Specs:

E-10 Ethanol Fuel Problems
STAR BRITE STAR TRON SOLVES FUEL PROBLEMS CAUSED BY NEW FORMULATED E-10 ETHANOL ENHANCED GASOLINE
The gasoline we buy for our boats and cars is in the process of a major reformulation. Ethanol, an alcohol derived primarily from corn, is both a domestically produced, and renewable fuel. E-10 (10% ethanol) has become a critical component of our fuel infrastructure, but it requires better housekeeping, especially in the boating industry. Ethanol is being phased into the fuel supply across the country.
The problem is all alcohol’s are hygroscopic. That means it likes water, and it attracts and couples with moisture in the air, resulting in greater amounts of water collecting in the fuel tank. Since water is heavier than gasoline, the water and ethanol mix settles to the bottom. This is referred to as “phase separation”, and eventually the water/ethanol phase is drawn into the fuel delivery system. If there is no water separator in the line, the water goes into the injector/carburetor and the engine does not run properly. In extreme cases, the engine will stop running. For automobiles, this is not a common problem in that an entire tank of fuel will most likely be used up within one week, well before a water/ethanol build up takes place. Also, automobiles have smaller gas tanks, leaving less air space for condensation to accumulate. Boats usually do not use up their fuel for many weeks, if not months, and their large gas tanks, when left low in fuel, readily form condensation. This presents a problem for most boaters.
An additional problem boaters will face is loss of octane, which is critical to an engine's performance. Ethanol is over 100+ octane, and provides the fuel with much of its octane rating. Once water reaches about a .5% level, it will phase separate. With the ethanol drawn to the bottom along with the water, the fuel will lose octane, and this can cause a loss of performance, including pinging and engine knock, which can damage your engine. It also severely worsens fuel economy and power.
There are other problems with E-10 fuel. Ethanol is a powerful solvent and readily breaks up tars and organic sediment found in many marine fuel tanks. The ethanol/water mix also makes a potent stripping agent for old varnish and gum accumulated from years of gasoline sitting in the tank. These organic contaminants, once loosened from tank walls, can plug filters and injectors quickly, disabling your boat’s engine. In cold weather, the water/alcohol phase can also freeze, turning into a syrupy mix that plugs filters.
To assist boaters, Star Brite has introduced Star Tron, a revolutionary fuel additive based on enzyme technology that can prevent these water-related fuel problems. The enzyme package in Star Tron disperses water derived from normal condensation into microscopic clusters, and allows the water to pass
through the fuel system and engine harmlessly, preventing the buildup on the
tank bottom that can contribute to poor performance, fuel gelling and corrosion.
This de-watering effect prevents potential phase separation. If large amounts of
water are already present it will be de-emulsified and drop out of the body of the
fuel, improving overall fuel performance. Over a period of time, with fresh gas
loads treated with Star Tron, even large accumulations of water will be totally
eliminated.
Star Tron can also counter the effects of lost octane, greatly improving the
combustion performance of E-10 fuel that has had water contamination. Star
Tron can also prevent filter plugging from old gum and varnish. The enzymes
help break down the dislodged sludge and other deposits into sub-micron-sized
particles that usually pass through the fuel filter and are burned away as part of
the combustion process. Tank deposits that would cause gelling are solubilized
so that fuel flows uninterrupted through the filters.
Star Brite Star tron is available in 8 fl. oz, 16 fl. oz, 32 fl. oz. and bulk sizes at
most marine supply retailers. One fluid ounce of the additive treats 15 gallons of
gas. Consumers seeking further information can call Star Brite toll free at 1 800
327-8583.
 
I use 100LL and that keeps for years

Avgas 100LL is not a cure all. I ran about 10 gallons of it through my saws, mowers and equipment, and decided it was just not working for me. As stated in previous posts about Avgas, it runs too rich in most equipment without carb adjustments - and even after adjusting it doesn't always run as well as normal gasoline. When I first mixed up a batch and put it in my MS361 it lost 1,000 rpm until I leaned the carb out to run on it. I could never get a smooth idle using Avgas now matter how much adjusting I did on the carbs, and a few people have done timed tests and shown that in a stock saw Avgas does not cut as quick as pump gas. It does however keep a long time, and when it does finally evaporate it doesn't leave any varnish behind. Avgas is not really gasoline as we know it.....it is typically 70% Alkylate, 15% Isopentane and 15% Tolene....plus additives.

I keep Avgas in my emergency generator as it is seldom used and when I need it.....I need it badly. I keep Avgas in the fuel tank but turn off the fuel valve and run the float bowl dry before storage. This generator has fixed jets and runs a bit lean on normal pump gas - but runs just fine on Avgas. The Avgas that is currently in the tank is 2 years old and it runs just fine, smells and looks the same as it did when I bought it.

Avgas is also really hard to buy in this area. The large airports won't sell it to you, and the county airports are all an hour away.
 
Avgas 100LL is not a cure all. I ran about 10 gallons of it through my saws, mowers and equipment, and decided it was just not working for me. As stated in previous posts about Avgas, it runs too rich in most equipment without carb adjustments - and even after adjusting it doesn't always run as well as normal gasoline. When I first mixed up a batch and put it in my MS361 it lost 1,000 rpm until I leaned the carb out to run on it. I could never get a smooth idle using Avgas now matter how much adjusting I did on the carbs, and a few people have done timed tests and shown that in a stock saw Avgas does not cut as quick as pump gas. It does however keep a long time, and when it does finally evaporate it doesn't leave any varnish behind. Avgas is not really gasoline as we know it.....it is typically 70% Alkylate, 15% Isopentane and 15% Tolene....plus additives.

I keep Avgas in my emergency generator as it is seldom used and when I need it.....I need it badly. I keep Avgas in the fuel tank but turn off the fuel valve and run the float bowl dry before storage. This generator has fixed jets and runs a bit lean on normal pump gas - but runs just fine on Avgas. The Avgas that is currently in the tank is 2 years old and it runs just fine, smells and looks the same as it did when I bought it.

Avgas is also really hard to buy in this area. The large airports won't sell it to you, and the county airports are all an hour away.

You need to work on your carb tuning, as do other AS members.
 
You need to work on your carb tuning, as do other AS members.

I feel pretty confident in my ability. I have been working on chainsaws,mowers, motorcycles, and cars for over 37 years. I even worked at a dealer so long ago that we stocked a full parts inventory for Clinton and David Bradley saws.

My saws ran alright on Avgas......but not better.
 
I'll take another peek at the pumps to double check and make sure I read the stickers right.

So I found a pump that has the sticker I was talking about. This could be read multiple ways... Does it have the maximum of ethanol that they can include in fuel AT 10%? Does it have at MAXIMUM 10% ethanol? Does REGULAR unleaded have more or less?

attachment.php
 
So I found a pump that has the sticker I was talking about. This could be read multiple ways... Does it have the maximum of ethanol that they can include in fuel AT 10%? Does it have at MAXIMUM 10% ethanol? Does REGULAR unleaded have more or less?

attachment.php

Probably means they both have 10% ethanol but the gasoline is better at the premium pump. It's hard to find gas anymore that contains no ethanol.
 
A few years ago the big McCulloch go-karts used to run on alcohol and they were really screamers and had a lot of power but of course they were heavily modified. My friend's Mac Kart had ports so big I didn't see how it ran but it did and how!
 
A few years ago the big McCulloch go-karts used to run on alcohol and they were really screamers and had a lot of power but of course they were heavily modified. My friend's Mac Kart had ports so big I didn't see how it ran but it did and how!

Engines can run on ethanol very well.......the require larger carb jets and higher compression for maximum power......and some engines require a shot of gasoline to get the engine started until the engine is warm. The Ethanol has to be kept fresh and sealed from the environment or it absorbs moisture. There are also problems Ethanol dissolving diaprhagms, fuel lines, O-rings, etc. It is not normally a problem on equipment that you used everyday - but it is a problem when it is equipment is used occassionally and the fuel is left in the equipment.

This last weekend I used a tree chipper that was full of fuel and had sat for several months. It was very hard to get started as the fuel in the carb had evaporated the "gasoline" portions and the only thing left behind was ethanol. I finally had to just pour a bit of fresh gas down the carb and then it started and ran fine. My uncle had a few muscle cars and when this ethanol thing first started we would have to replace the accerator pump diaprhagms every spring - the ethanol would dissolve the diaphragms as the cars sat over the winter.

Currently I am working on my neighbors motorcycle that had not been run in 5 years. I expected the float bowls and jets to be clogged up with stale fuel - but the ethanol had dissolved the rubber O-rings on the fuel inlet pipes and float bowls. As the "gasoline" portion of the fuel dissolves it leaves behind a high concentration of ethanol - and this left behind mixture is corrosive to aluminum and dissolves rubber parts.
 
Engines can run on ethanol very well.......the require larger carb jets and higher compression for maximum power......and some engines require a shot of gasoline to get the engine started until the engine is warm. The Ethanol has to be kept fresh and sealed from the environment or it absorbs moisture. There are also problems Ethanol dissolving diaprhagms, fuel lines, O-rings, etc. It is not normally a problem on equipment that you used everyday - but it is a problem when it is equipment is used occassionally and the fuel is left in the equipment.

This last weekend I used a tree chipper that was full of fuel and had sat for several months. It was very hard to get started as the fuel in the carb had evaporated the "gasoline" portions and the only thing left behind was ethanol. I finally had to just pour a bit of fresh gas down the carb and then it started and ran fine. My uncle had a few muscle cars and when this ethanol thing first started we would have to replace the accerator pump diaprhagms every spring - the ethanol would dissolve the diaphragms as the cars sat over the winter.

Currently I am working on my neighbors motorcycle that had not been run in 5 years. I expected the float bowls and jets to be clogged up with stale fuel - but the ethanol had dissolved the rubber O-rings on the fuel inlet pipes and float bowls. As the "gasoline" portion of the fuel dissolves it leaves behind a high concentration of ethanol - and this left behind mixture is corrosive to aluminum and dissolves rubber parts.
I would have figured the ethanol would evaporate faster than gasoline. They put alcohol (maybe different kind) in cheaper lacquer thinner so it dries faster.
 
I would have figured the ethanol would evaporate faster than gasoline. They put alcohol (maybe different kind) in cheaper lacquer thinner so it dries faster.

My experience has been that if you leave equipment with a gravity fuel system with ethanol fuel in it for an extended period of time - the float bowl will end up with a large concentration of ethanol in the float bowl. The first clue is the engine won't start - but if you take the float bowl off and dump that fuel out the engine will start and run on the fuel that is in the gas tank. It could be the engine won't start on the ethanol......or maybe the ethanol has absorbed too much water to be volatile. If the engine is left to sit for a longer time the aluminum parts will corrode. For a few years my mother was not running her mowers out of fuel over the winter and in the spring I could not start them for her....until I emptied out the float bowl and then they would start and run fine. Now when I go to visit her in the late fall I empty all the fuel out for her and she only needs to add fuel in the spring to resume mowing.
 
My experience has been that if you leave equipment with a gravity fuel system with ethanol fuel in it for an extended period of time - the float bowl will end up with a large concentration of ethanol in the float bowl. The first clue is the engine won't start - but if you take the float bowl off and dump that fuel out the engine will start and run on the fuel that is in the gas tank. It could be the engine won't start on the ethanol......or maybe the ethanol has absorbed too much water to be volatile. If the engine is left to sit for a longer time the aluminum parts will corrode. For a few years my mother was not running her mowers out of fuel over the winter and in the spring I could not start them for her....until I emptied out the float bowl and then they would start and run fine. Now when I go to visit her in the late fall I empty all the fuel out for her and she only needs to add fuel in the spring to resume mowing.
I had an awful time getting my motorcycle running last spring after sitting all winter. I think this year I'm gonna go out at least monthly and start it. I've also trying to remember to drain the fuel from my lawnmowers and saws before winter. Maybe next spring it won't be such a hassle getting everything going. I see where Rural King has Sea Foam fuel conditioner on sale. Might go down and get a can or two..I hear it's pretty good.
 
I had an awful time getting my motorcycle running last spring after sitting all winter. I think this year I'm gonna go out at least monthly and start it. I've also trying to remember to drain the fuel from my lawnmowers and saws before winter. Maybe next spring it won't be such a hassle getting everything going. I see where Rural King has Sea Foam fuel conditioner on sale. Might go down and get a can or two..I hear it's pretty good.

The motorcycle I am working on has a drain screw in each float bowl. I think next winter I am going to run the pump gas out and add Avgas......then after the Avgas is through the system I will park the bike, take out the battery and then open the screws and drain each float bowl.
 
Kinda silly question I guess but I wonder if there's a way to remove the ethanol from the gasoline? I'm sure we have some chemists here!

One of the problems with removing the ethanol is that it increases the Octane rating. I buy "farm fuel" from the distributor that is 87 Octane and has no ethanol in it - they sell this fuel to farmers and landscape businesses to use in their tractors and mowers and it stores better in their above ground fuel tanks. The distributer says that when they use this base gasoline to blend with ethanol - it becomes their 91 Octane premium.

So it would seem that if you take out the ethonal you will lower the octane rating 4 points. (Our local mix is 10% ethanol).
 
One of the problems with removing the ethanol is that it increases the Octane rating. I buy "farm fuel" from the distributor that is 87 Octane and has no ethanol in it - they sell this fuel to farmers and landscape businesses to use in their tractors and mowers and it stores better in their above ground fuel tanks. The distributer says that when they use this base gasoline to blend with ethanol - it becomes their 91 Octane premium.

So it would seem that if you take out the ethonal you will lower the octane rating 4 points. (Our local mix is 10% ethanol).

87 octane without ethanol would still be ok for small engines I would think.
 
87 octane without ethanol would still be ok for small engines I would think.

The 87 Octane "farm fuel" that I buy works great in my lawn mowers. When I run it in my off-road motorcycle I bump up the Octane rating a bit my mixing in about 25% Torco 110 Octane racing fuel. My Stihl Chainsaws require 88 Octane - so I mix in a little bit of the Torco in that mix.

The problem would be if you bought 86 Octane blended pump gas and stripped the ethonal out somehow......then you would have fuel with an octane rating of 82.
 
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