starting a MS361

[LHJim]

I got a new 361. Tried to start it last Saturday and could not get it to start. Oh yeah I read the manual and know for a cold start the switch should be on cold start. And when the moment you feel the saw turn over you should move the switch up to the warm start. Pressing the trigger will move the switch up to the run position. I had the decomp pressed in and the brake on.

I will say that I *think* the saw started to turn and I did not move from cold start to warm start fast enough (is this supposed to be instanteous?.) However I think the saw could/will still start up and probably (can) run 30 seconds at the cold start before moving the switch to run start. Not sure what I am doing wrong. But I have the spark plug out now and will try again (the decomp is still pressed in...and when I do not start it is it ok to leave this decomp in?) but its supposed to rain the rest of the week. Dang this rain...but everything is greener

Does the saw need to have anything adjusted after running two or three tanks of gas thru it? Does anyone run 93 octane but look for gas with 0% ethanol in it? Not sure if this is the way to do it? I also have the 6 pack mix but does anyone recommend to run the ultra mix? I plan to run 93 in it but not sure if its better to run non-ethanol fuel and if so I'd have to look for it as every gas station here has ethanol.

Thanks for your help guys!

 

[blsnelling]

I believe your saw was tuned at the factory with 10% ethanol fuel. I think that's what was posted here.

After the saw pops on choke, do not pull it one more time before moving to the fast idle position. Once moved up one notch, you will have to pull the rope 1-3 more times for it to start. Immediately blip the throttle to take it off fast idle.

If the spark plug is wet, turn the saw upside down with the plug removed and pull the rope over quickly to help purge the excess fuel from the crankcase. Then allow it to set and dry a while with the plug out. Once the plug is removed, try to start it in the fast idle position before choking again.

 

[kevlar]

You probably flooded it as it is easy to do on the 361.it should take no more than three pulls with the choke on. once it pops (not always that noticable!)
move the switch to high idle (not with a trigger pull but manually!)then one or two pulls the saw should be running then a trigger pull puts it to the run setting.

for now hold the trigger wide open in the run position only and pull it over till it starts or you are sure that all the extra fuel is blown out.

I get the 361 back often after I sell them for this same reason. hope this helps

 

[blsnelling]

The problem is that the mufflers are so choke up that it's easy to miss that little pop. A muffler mod cures this problem.

 

[spiffy1]

Still haven't done the muffler, am looking at it as I type though....

Cold start, I give it two (and flip it after one if it does pop) pulls with choke then two without; not started then: sequences of one.

3 to 5 ussually gets it running even if it's been sitting for a couple months with fuel in it (I know, drain the tank and run it dry is smarter, but it seldom gets enough vacation for me to bother, so I don't worry about the times it does).

 

[CentaurG2]

Starting the almighty ms361 cold is easy, put saw on full choke, pull 3 or 4 times till you hear a pop (dull wheeze , cough, sputter etc), set on half choke, pull one more time, saw should start and blip throttle to get off high idle, cut wood. Now, the real trick is to restart the saw once it is warm. Stopped carrying the 361 on the tree crew for just this reason. Single user OK, multiple users =too many floods! Decomp valve is not needed or used.

Regarding fuel, it is upto you. All we can get around here is ethanol fuel. We run 93 octane with stihl ultra oil mixed at 50:1 and have had no problems at all. We use ultra due only to the fact that we also run a lot of 4-mix equipment. If you can get non-ethanol fuel easily ,use it with Ultra and you should be fine.

Regarding adjustments. Bring the saw back to the dealer after you get about 10 tanks of fuel through it. Ask him/her to check your RPMs and set accordingly. This saw should be taching about 13500. If you feel lucky, you could push it to 13.8-14k but my luck is not so good so I always err on the side of caution (especially with ethanol fuel). Lastly, keep the chain sharp. If you don’t know how, learn to sharpen chains. Pleanty of good info on “how to” around here. Good Luck

 

[spiffy1]

Knowing it might sit with fuel in it; I always go ethanol free 90something (varies depending upon where I fill up when I have jugs along) octane.

I've been running HP Super black bottle since I bought it, but the dealer did a break-in tank before I took it home and no idea what they used. Been fine, but a few 6packs through it is nothing compared to the life I expect of this saw, so quite premature to tell.

 

[litefoot]

LHJim,
I found that starting a new 361 goes better without using the decomp. I know there are others here who share that sentiment.

 

[windthrown]

Problems starting the 361 is almost always due to flooding, and its almost always becasue you are using the decomp when cold starting. Do not use the decomp on full choke, and you will start it faster. The LA fire department zip tied all their 361 decomp valves for this reason. Also drop start your saws, and you will start them easier and you will not need the decomp valve. You will also have to learn to hear or feel the saw popping or rumbling over when fully choked. If you go one pull past that point on full choke, you will flood it. I never pull a 361 starter with the choke on full for more than 4 times or they will flood. I cannot say that I have flooded my 361s in at least a year now. I have far more problems starting my 025 and 250 becasue of gas pooling when they are hot. The 210 was the same. The 361s start fine when they are hot, usually on one pull, and 2-4 pulls on full choke when cold, 1-2 pulls more at fast idle and they are off and running.

As for gas, use super and a good 100% synthetic oil.

 

[LHJim]

what is choking? Is that at the cold start setting

I believe your saw was tuned at the factory with 10% ethanol fuel. I think that's what was posted here.

After the saw pops on choke, do not pull it one more time before moving to the fast idle position. Once moved up one notch, you will have to pull the rope 1-3 more times for it to start. Immediately blip the throttle to take it off fast idle.

If the spark plug is wet, turn the saw upside down with the plug removed and pull the rope over quickly to help purge the excess fuel from the crankcase. Then allow it to set and dry a while with the plug out. Once the plug is removed, try to start it in the fast idle position before choking again.

I am going to have to get used to the lingo here. When you say "after the saw pops on choke, do not pull it one more time before moving to the fast idle position." I presume when you say pop you mean when it feels like the saw is just about to start? And when you say moving to the fast idle position you mean to warm start right?

What do you mean try to start in the fast idle position before choking again? When you mention fast idle position you are referring to the warm start? And when you refer to choking agin you mean the switch set at cold start?

Thanks and hey I see everyone uses different wording for the two settings besides the Off and Run setting. I believe I got a couple of other questions on other's posting and will get to that soon.

I know with tractors and some old cars, you can "open the choke" when first starting on a cold engine and this is what I am thinking here, choking on 361 is referred to the cold start setting and the warm start is referred to what?

I think the spark plug was wet and spark plug has been removed since Saturday morning so the internals can dry up. Will try again this evening hopefully.

 

[spiffy1]

Also drop start your saws, and you will start them easier and you will not need the decomp valve.

Theres another way to start a saw?! :greenchainsaw:

Actually, I generally do punch the decompression, but have yet to notice a huge difference in pulling ease or starting reliability when I don't. May have to actually think about it some time, and see if I notice a difference, but then I'm ussually staring at a tree or wood pile instead of thinking about the ease of starting.

 

[spiffy1]

Pretty sure your "cold start" is choke to me: pull trigger and click all the way down.

While "warm start" is fast idle: one up from choke.

Run, click the trigger and it moves up from fast idle.

I don't like the chain brake on when starting, but it should be a minimal difference in starting, and I'm sure safer.

Also, any action from the saw where it fired even one hit, would constitute a pop; this would warrant half choke on a tractor (I always call starting position choke "closed" - referering to the position of the butterfly rather than the knob) or older car.

 

[Country1]

LHJim,
I found that starting a new 361 goes better without using the decomp. I know there are others here who share that sentiment.

+1 No de-comp. for me.

Op's post on his cold start procedure in confusing at best...

As others have said, No de-comp, squeeze throttle and set "master control" to full choke (or full down position), pull rope (usually 1-2 pulls on mine), once it fires (pops or sputters etc.) or tries to start, leave throttle alone and move the "master control" up one position to 1/2 choke/part throttle (the saw is not running at this point), pull rope (usually 2-3 pulls on mine) and the saw will start. Let it run for a few second then blip the throttle. This takes it off 1/2 choke and part throttle. Blip it immediately if you have the chain brake on. I don't start with brake on, but it's a good safety practice if you want to use it. Once you get this procedure down it's very easy to start. Also, I've never had trouble with warm starts. Put the "Master Control" to on, one pull and she's running.

I flooded mine once when I first got it by using the de-comp. valve. Since then I no longer use it and really feel it's not needed. I'm not a very big guy either. Use of the de-comp. valve messes the start proceeder up and makes it very easy to flood... That's probably most of your trouble...

Hope this helps.

 

[LHJim]

clarify your meaning...

Starting the almighty ms361 cold is easy, put saw on full choke, pull 3 or 4 times till you hear a pop (dull wheeze , cough, sputter etc), set on half choke, pull one more time, saw should start and blip throttle to get off high idle, cut wood. Now, the real trick is to restart the saw once it is warm. Stopped carrying the 361 on the tree crew for just this reason. Single user OK, multiple users =too many floods! Decomp valve is not needed or used.

Regarding fuel, it is upto you. All we can get around here is ethanol fuel. We run 93 octane with stihl ultra oil mixed at 50:1 and have had no problems at all. We use ultra due only to the fact that we also run a lot of 4-mix equipment. If you can get non-ethanol fuel easily ,use it with Ultra and you should be fine.

Regarding adjustments. Bring the saw back to the dealer after you get about 10 tanks of fuel through it. Ask him/her to check your RPMs and set accordingly. This saw should be taching about 13500. If you feel lucky, you could push it to 13.8-14k but my luck is not so good so I always err on the side of caution (especially with ethanol fuel). Lastly, keep the chain sharp. If you don’t know how, learn to sharpen chains. Pleanty of good info on “how to” around here. Good Luck

What do you mean by full choke? My guess by full choke you mean cold start choke?

Set on half choke? Half choke is at the warm start which is the warm choke?

A couple of you guys state decomp value is not needed or used. I do not think I saw the dealer use the decomp valve but I could be wrong. However, my decomp valve is still pressed in...will this cause more problems since I have not started the saw and it remains pressed in?

 

[spiffy1]

What do you mean by full choke? My guess by full choke you mean cold start choke?

Set on half choke? Half choke is at the warm start which is the warm choke?

Yep!

A couple of you guys state decomp value is not needed or used. I do not think I saw the dealer use the decomp valve but I could be wrong. However, my decomp valve is still pressed in...will this cause more problems since I have not started the saw and it remains pressed in?

Should be fine; perhaps you'll even like it; but you have to be real carefull with that full choke position . I don't generarally go beyond 2 pulls before clicking back to half choke. Heck, if it was already flooded (but somewhat dried out now), try a couple pulls half choke, then 1 pull full choke, a couple half, 2 full, a couple half, 3 full; if a couple half doesn't do it after that; it's out of my league.

 

[Country1]

The valve will stay in until the saw fires or tries to start. Just use the cold start procedure and the valve will close. Then don't use it again.

Full choke is the cold start position (Master control full down with throttle squeezed)

Half choke is difficult to explain. It's the master control in the run or on position, but after the master control has been set to cold start without blipping the throttle and moved up one position to run/on. Once you blip the throttle it takes the throttle off "part throttle" and moves the choke to off. Does that make sense?

Sounds like your dealer didn't do a very good job of teaching you the starting procedures... I'd go back to him and ask some questions.

 

[LHJim]

Country,

This is from the manual although I do not have it right in front of me. But I read the starting manual a few times to ensure I got the "procedure right". After going thru the starting procedure everything makes sense and its easy to visualize the way to start the saw. you all have slightly different ways and this is more confusing to this OP

I also figured the decomp probably messed me up some. You know that the decomp probably helped get a flood of gas in faster and if not done right probably hurt my ability to start the saw right in the first place.

So right now my comp is pressed in...how do I get it to pop back up unless I gotta start the saw to force the decomp to pop back up.

Now I am clear on "other" ways to do this. I think the next time I try I will not use the decomp but its already pressed in so I need to get the saw running with it in and then next time I ain't gonna use the decomp.

Why is the dang decomp there in the first place if its not needed...I hope Stihl does not add the decomp and the add $79 to the final price of the saw...

 

[LHJim]

I think the dealer did an ok job. But I know just about everyone will have this problem when they first get a saw with these kind of controls and then learn the nuisances of how to efficiently start the saw.

This is the same with me and my sister a long time ago visiting a cousin and uncle and they were riding dirt bikes in the field and me and my sis were riding my 1/2 street 1/2 dirt bike in the field and a guy was riding one of these 1/2 1/2 harleys and he let us try to ride it and we had problems getting ot to start off right although we could do it with my dirt bike which had the clutch and 4 speed. This happens often when you try a new thing.

After this much contribution from you guys...I bet I will get this sucker running next time I give it a go.

Can't blame my dealer as the manual does not do a thorough job too!

 

[Country1]

Why is the dang decomp there in the first place if its not needed...I hope Stihl does not add the decomp and the add $79 to the final price of the saw...

I wish they didn't have that dang thing on the saw.

If you still need help on starting that thing PM me your #. Things could be explained a lot better over the phone

 

[SawTroll]

You probably flooded it as it is easy to do on the 361.it should take no more than three pulls with the choke on. once it pops (not always that noticable!)
move the switch to high idle (not with a trigger pull but manually!)then one or two pulls the saw should be running then a trigger pull puts it to the run setting. .....

:agree2: I never pull more than 3 pulls on choke before trying on fast idle - pop or not.

Also, the faintest sign that it wants to start should count as a pop - leave the hearing protection off if you use it.

This is not just about the 361, it is pretty common on newer saws.