Stihl 026 needs love! Show me the way...

[BrokenSVT]

I stumbled upon a Craigslist ad last night, which included a couple of chainsaws and a gas powered leaf blower. I called the fellow and met him in a dark place at 11:30 PM...and I'm still alive to tell the tale.

Long story short, I picked up the lot. The jewel is a Stihl 026, which I snagged for $25!

This poor saw has had better days. It has good compression (butt Dyno, not gauged...yet), doesn't drag or grind on a pull, has spark. She won't start, which could have to do with the fine film of greasy sawdust ALL OVER her, and inside of the carb. Grrr.

The worst issue I've found is the chain sprocket which was ground smooth. I'm guessing someone didn't sharpen their chain prior to the last outing, given all the signs.

I'm going to rebuild the carburetor, clean the entire saw top to bottom, and actually install an air filter for starters. I'll also be checking the fuel and impulse lines and likely replace the fuel filter as well.

Where I'm lost is on the chain sprocket. I've never swapped one. Can anyone share the required parts list, as well as the procedure for a noob such as myself? Additionally, I'd love thoughts on any other preventive maintenance I should take care of to get this old gal running again.

Thanks in advance!

 

[farmer steve]

http://bricomeca.free.fr/Stihl/stihl 026 IPL.pdf

 

[grack]

I stumbled upon a Craigslist ad last night, which included a couple of chainsaws and a gas powered leaf blower. I called the fellow and met him in a dark place at 11:30 PM...and I'm still alive to tell the tale.

Long story short, I picked up the lot. The jewel is a Stihl 026, which I snagged for $25!

This poor saw has had better days. It has good compression (butt Dyno, not gauged...yet), doesn't drag or grind on a pull, has spark. She won't start, which could have to do with the fine film of greasy sawdust ALL OVER her, and inside of the carb. Grrr.

The worst issue I've found is the chain sprocket which was ground smooth. I'm guessing someone didn't sharpen their chain prior to the last outing, given all the signs.

I'm going to rebuild the carburetor, clean the entire saw top to bottom, and actually install an air filter for starters. I'll also be checking the fuel and impulse lines and likely replace the fuel filter as well.

Where I'm lost is on the chain sprocket. I've never swapped one. Can anyone share the required parts list, as well as the procedure for a noob such as myself? Additionally, I'd love thoughts on any other preventive maintenance I should take care of to get this old gal running again.

Thanks in advance!

Great saws a new stihl carb is just 20 some dollar's .
I've just been buying them carb kits are 10-12 dollars fuel line was 11.00 so for under 50.00 you can have an all new fuel system and not worry about it.

 

[andrethegiant70]

Re sprocket, not too hard. The clutch drum is easy. Remove the circlip, and the sprocket assembly should slide off. Be advised, there are two different types of sprockets for the saw, a shallow one for the basic oiler and the deeper, notched one for use with the adjustable oiler. Pop the sprocket before going to get your part so you can see which you've got.

Then of course you need to decide on what chain you'll be using so you'll have to match that. I'll also recommend a rim-type sprocket as opposed to a spur sprocket.

 

[grack]

post some pics

 

[BrokenSVT]

Thank you all for the links and info!

I'll definitely post some pictures tonight. As I mentioned, the deal went down in the late hours lol...and I had to be at work at 6 AM.

Obviously I could do some googling, but I'll stick to this thread for info at the moment. What are the pros and cons of the two sprocket types?

 

[ray benson]

I stumbled upon a Craigslist ad last night, which included a couple of chainsaws and a gas powered leaf blower. I called the fellow and met him in a dark place at 11:30 PM...and I'm still alive to tell the tale.

Long story short, I picked up the lot. The jewel is a Stihl 026, which I snagged for $25!

This poor saw has had better days. It has good compression (butt Dyno, not gauged...yet), doesn't drag or grind on a pull, has spark. She won't start, which could have to do with the fine film of greasy sawdust ALL OVER her, and inside of the carb. Grrr.

The worst issue I've found is the chain sprocket which was ground smooth. I'm guessing someone didn't sharpen their chain prior to the last outing, given all the signs.

I'm going to rebuild the carburetor, clean the entire saw top to bottom, and actually install an air filter for starters. I'll also be checking the fuel and impulse lines and likely replace the fuel filter as well.

Where I'm lost is on the chain sprocket. I've never swapped one. Can anyone share the required parts list, as well as the procedure for a noob such as myself? Additionally, I'd love thoughts on any other preventive maintenance I should take care of to get this old gal running again.

Thanks in advance!

Check your inbox for the service manual.

 

[grack]

Thank you all for the links and info!

I'll definitely post some pictures tonight. As I mentioned, the deal went down in the late hours lol...and I had to be at work at 6 AM.

Obviously I could do some googling, but I'll stick to this thread for info at the moment. What are the pros and cons of the two sprocket types?

I pressure wash or use foaming shower cleaner then hose off to help me find any problem with a saw you'd be surprised what filth will hide lol

 

[pioneerguy600]

Thank you all for the links and info!

I'll definitely post some pictures tonight. As I mentioned, the deal went down in the late hours lol...and I had to be at work at 6 AM.

Obviously I could do some googling, but I'll stick to this thread for info at the moment. What are the pros and cons of the two sprocket types?

The rim sprocket is cheaper to change out in the future as both the sprocket type and the rim type will wear out over time, the rim type is cheaper and easier to change out when needed, the clutch drum will last a very long time.

 

[Mad Professor]

Edit

^ he beat me too it!

A rim sprocket allows you to change/renew the drive/wear parts without changing the clutch drum. It also allows you to change the # of drive teeth and/or the chain pitch using the same drum. Also note the drums are different between saws with adjuatable oilers and non-adjustable. See the IPL. Make sure your clutch drive parts match your bar/chain pitch (0.325, 3/8, 3/8 picco), that should be marked on the bar

Pull off the drum anyway and inspect the drum, bearing, and clutch. Clean things up while you are in there.

If you want to clean behind the clutch and oiler, you can use a piece of rope as a piston stop. Clutch spins off CCW.

Be careful with pressure washers, you can get water inside ex/motor. Scrape off what you can then use a brush and solvent degreaser. On the cheap diesel fuel works well followed by dish detergent.

 

[BrokenSVT]

You guys are the best! I'm learning a lot, and quickly.

As I'm pondering over the sprocket, I'm not sure what chain/bar combo I'd like to run. I figure an 18-20" bar? I'd love to hear opinions on the entire chain setup, from sprocket to tip. I can call my chainsaw guy down the road and see what he has available based on suggestions...unless anyone here has the spare parts for a good price. I'd like to have this gem together and running by the weekend.

 

[farmer steve]

You guys are the best! I'm learning a lot, and quickly.

As I'm pondering over the sprocket, I'm not sure what chain/bar combo I'd like to run. I figure an 18-20" bar? I'd love to hear opinions on the entire chain setup, from sprocket to tip. I can call my chainsaw guy down the road and see what he has available based on suggestions...unless anyone here has the spare parts for a good price. I'd like to have this gem together and running by the weekend.

i like the .325 chain with an 18" bar on mine. of course wood type and size will be a factor. i'm sure other opinions will follow.
BTW welcome to AS.

 

[Mad Professor]

0.325 chain chisel or semi-chisel, I avoid green/safety chain, and 16-20" bar depending what you need for reach and/or cutting.

 

[farmer steve]

0.325 chain chisel or semi-chisel, I avoid green/safety chain, and 16-20" bar depending what you need for reach and/or cutting.

forgot to mention that *@#$green safety chain.

 

[pioneerguy600]

.325 chain and like already posted, 16-20" bar depending on type of use. I stick to using Stihl chisel chain for the type of wood and cutting I do but its more expensive from the get go but it lasts longer for me.

 

[Dieseldash]

You guys are the best! I'm learning a lot, and quickly.

As I'm pondering over the sprocket, I'm not sure what chain/bar combo I'd like to run. I figure an 18-20" bar? I'd love to hear opinions on the entire chain setup, from sprocket to tip. I can call my chainsaw guy down the road and see what he has available based on suggestions...unless anyone here has the spare parts for a good price. I'd like to have this gem together and running by the weekend.

I run a 16" .325 set up on my 024 Super. I like 16" on small light saws. Less power loss with short chain and keeps the package light. Feels like a little light saber.

 

[BrokenSVT]

Well here she is fellows! The good news is twofold:

One, the sprocket wasn't stripped! It's the good kind! I just couldn't tell in the dark last night. *Blush*

Secondly, she ran tonight. I tinkered with the carburetor and she fired right up. The air cleaner screen was so gunked up, I assume she wasn't getting enough air.

The bad? No matter what I did with the LA screw, it wouldn't idle low enough to not spin the sprocket. Ideas? Air leak?

 

[farmer steve]

View attachment 578224 View attachment 578225 View attachment 578226 View attachment 578227
Well here she is fellows! The good news is twofold:

One, the sprocket wasn't stripped! It's the good kind! I just couldn't tell in the dark last night. *Blush*

Secondly, she ran tonight. I tinkered with the carburetor and she fired right up. The air cleaner screen was so gunked up, I assume she wasn't getting enough air.

The bad? No matter what I did with the LA screw, it wouldn't idle low enough to not spin the sprocket. Ideas? Air leak?

check the screw/clamp on the carb boot for starters. saw looks pretty nice in your pics. did i mention i like the stihl chain too. the air filters suck on the 026. clean your old one good(i use starting fluid and air) and buy a new one. not aftermarket!!. i'll try and find the 026 air filter thread for ya.

 

[Dieseldash]

With the filter removed can you adjust the idle? As farmer Steve said the filters aren't the best design and get dirty fast. Brake cleaner and compressed air helps as does air filter cleaner for dirt bikes. I generally used just compressed air to get to caked on gunk off and some spray on degreaser.

Nice looking saw. Good score. The 026 is nice light weight saw. Should have lots of life left in it.

 

[Mad Professor]

$25? That's a "you suck"!

Looks to be in good shape. Certainly worth fixing up Try adjusting the Lo richer (CCW) to see if you can get idle down before checking for air leaks, it should be about 1 turn out. You want the Lo set about 1/2 way between too lean (racing) and too rich (dies at idle). You may need to fiddle back and forth between the Lo and LA to get it just right.

Pull the clutch drum anyway to check and grease the bearing. Also won't hurt to pull the clutch/oil pump cover and clean behind that. I've seen 026 so packed with crud the friction on the clutch started to melt the plastics.

I'd also pull the muffler and take a look at the cylinder/piston. You have the carb with the adjustable Hi (a good thing), so you might want to explore muffler mods as 026 like those.