cutter300
ArboristSite Lurker
Could someone let me know the approximate cost of the parts, how difficult it is to install and how long it will take to install? Thanks.
stihl 026 oiler question
- Thread starter cutter300
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
While we are on the subject of 026/260 does Stihl make a 3/4 wrap handle to fit the series?
bcorradi
Arboristsite.com Sponsor
As far as installation time goes...if your mechanically inclined probably < 15 minutes.
Steps involved to remove the old oiler
1) Remove E-Clip and washer
2) Remove clutch drum and bearing
3) Remove sparkplug and lay some rope at the top of the piston when its near top dead center to hold the piston in position.
4) Use a 19mm wrench/socket (non impact) and remove the clutch by turning it clockwise (left hand threads).
5) You'll now be able to see the oiler so remove the two T27 torx holding the oiler on.
6) Now remove the oiler hose before removing the oiler. If you are replacing the oil line at the same time (recommended) you will need to remove the inner guide plate (brassish looking plate over the bar studs by removing a small flathead screw). After the oil line is removed from the oiler use a small needed nose pliers and gently pull the oil line through and out the exit hole (hole behind the innerguide plate).
7) Remove the oiler drive gear by just sliding it off the crankshaft.
Steps involved to install the new oiler
1) Slide the new bushing you got with your oiler onto the crank. (I think there might be also a washer that goes on behind this...I cannot remember off hand now).
2) Position your new oiler over the crank and reattach your old hose or your new oiler hose and fasten down the new oiler with the two T27 screws.
3) Now slide your new worm gear with tang over the crank and over the bushing.
4) Reinstall your clutch by turning it counter clockwise.
5) Install your new clutch drum and bearing making sure your new oiler worm tang seats in the tiny notch in your new drum.
6) Put your washer and eclip back on.
7) Reattach your innerguide plate with the flathead screw
8) Remove rope from cylinder
9) Reinstall sparkplug
bcorradi
Arboristsite.com Sponsor
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
shaking head....
John - LOL you may want to add "High Tech Machinist" in your signature line too.
Oh yeah, let me "improve" one of your spreadsheets. I can have you on the floor sobbing within minutes..... it is a special skill,
possessed only by a select few :monkey:
:blob4: :computer: :computer2:
One thing I found helpful was to separate the oil line from the pump by carefully prying/sliding back the aluminum ring holding the oil line to the pump, then working the line off the pump. That way, you can just pull the line out from the discharge hole using needlenose. That way, the hose is still intact, and you have a complete working oil pump assembly that can be used in another saw or as a backup. If that doesn't matter, then cutting the hose is easier than working around the brass sleeve at the output end of the hose.
I reused my pump, and it pumps just the right amount of oil. My dealer tells me that the adjustable ones do not move as much oil as the fixed ones. Minor point, but FYI
bcorradi
Arboristsite.com Sponsor
John - Ok yeah your right...if you have that aluminum collar on the line by the oil pump. Slide that up the hose before removing the line from the oiler. I forgot to mention that...some have that collar and some do not though. Your also probably right saying the non adj ones output a tad more oil than the adjustable ones maxxed out.
cutter300
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks to all. I appreciate the help.
I am a 62 y/o woman with arthritis and it makes a big difference to me. Happy chipping folks!
