stihl 044 project

[Welder56]

Hey everybody. New member here. My name is Colin, I live in Nova Scotia Canada. I have been creeping this forum for awhile now but finally decided to post something. I'm a red-seal welder by trade. I work in a mechanical shop (mechanics, welders, machinists, bodymen).

OK enough about me. I've been working on a stihl 044. It's an older one so it has the 10mm wrist pin. It was made in west Germany and I bought it for 80 bucks with a blown piston. Just ordered a meteor piston and cylinder ( would have loved to save the cylinder but it was just scored to bad to save). I plan on porting the cylinder once I receive it. I did a compression test with the piston the way it was and it was 100 psi. I think it was run lean. I forgot to do a vacuum test before I took it apart so I'm praying it's not the crank gasket.

It had a spark problem also. I replaced the old spark plug. Tested with multimeter and figured it was just the HT lead and not the coil ( interesting enough the old coil is made by ducati energy ). Now I'm getting perfect spark and testing perfect.
Other than that I have just been cleaning all the metal and plastic pieces as I have been working on it. I will post pictures the next time I'm working on it. and I welcome all advice as their is a lot of really great threads on this forum! I'm happy to have found this great site

 

[Stihlofadeal64]

Congrats on the 044 find. You did well for what you stated you paid. You said the cylinder was too bad to save, can you elaborate as to why?

How far down did we disassemble the saw? I am assuming down to the crank case, meaning everything is off but the crank case is in tact?
There are tons of parts available for these saws. I believe it being the much sought after 10mm issue you will be pleased after you have it
running again. Others will be along to chime in, more comments will come as you post pictures I am sure. Welcome to AS, "come on
in a sit a spell!"

 

[Welder56]

Sure I can elaborate on the cylinder. The piston looked exactly like the fella that did the 064 restoration recently (looking through the exhaust port). I was pretty gun hoe to save the cylinder but I thought I would bring it to my work and ask a few a few 'expierienced' small engine guys (one fella is a great old machinist that I trust). He said he could probably save it but it's a crap shoot as to how long it will run for. I'm gonna save the cylinder for a spare and give it a quick hoen(sp?) but I left it at work. So I'll take pictures and you fellas can give your opinion. Cuz a picture can say a 1000 words.

 

[Brush Ape]

Hey everybody. New member here. My name is Colin, I live in Nova Scotia Canada............ I'm a red-seal welder by trade.

I wondered how they put them back together when we got done clubbing them.

 

[Welder56]

Here's a few pictures of my progress. The muffler was cleaned up and painted with hi temp paint. I hand cleaned the handle (gonna use and air compressor tomorrow to finish) and the piston. I left the last ring in to show its flush to the piston (they also broke off as I was trying to remove them).

What's the best way to remove the little clips that hold the wrist pin in??

 

[adkranger]

"What's the best way to remove the little clips that hold the wrist pin in?? "

What type of clip? Shaped like a "C" without an exposed end to grab, or like a "G" with leg? If it has a leg, I use either surgical forceps or fine needle nose pliers. If the C type I dig them out with dental picks, two, one to start one end out then progressively work it out with the pair. Did I make any sense....?

Oh yeah, welcome to the forum. Been to N.B. and Bay of Fundy several times, very nice.....have got to see N.S. someday.

 

[Welder56]

Thanks! I lived in Saint john, N.B for a couple years. NS is definitely a beautiful place, especially in the Highlands.

Also thanks for the tips. It made sense to me. I believe it's the 'C' clips because there is nothing to grab. Once I get my new piston I'll try it out.

 

[hseII]

That tank looks to be in really good shape; worth the price you paid for the saw.

Welcome to AS and Great Find

 

[adkranger]

Take care reassembling new clips with open end up so they can't compress with piston movement and ruin that new cylinder.....

 

[AKDoug]

Also, order a couple extra clips when you order a piston. The little buggers have a habit of launching themselves across the shop.

 

[LowVolt]

Yada Yada Yada. Hd2 filter and dual port muffler.....Yada Yada Yada.

Let it be known that from here on till the end of time these two mods will make a 044 run like a scalded dog. There is no need to say it ever again, ever. That's it. No more. No more hd2 dual port muffler talk.

 

[splitpost]

Yada Yada Yada. Hd2 filter and dual port muffler.....Yada Yada Yada.

Let it be known that from here on till the end of time these two mods will make a 044 run like a scalded dog. There is no need to say it ever again, ever. That's it. No more. No more hd2 dual port muffler talk.

having a bad day mate?

 

[LowVolt]

No not at all. I guess I should have put lol at the end! Ha!

 

[LowVolt]

Hd2dpmuff

 

[redfin]

Is your cylinder scored on both sides? Post a pic or two. Your going to be hard pressed to make that saw run the same with an am jug as oem unless you do some timing work.

Great deal regardless no matter what. And for what its worth I have a few saws that have a single large opening in the can that run great. Some saws you can get away with one port others just don't have the room and need two.

 

[Welder56]

It's funny, I was thinking about the porting issue today and I don't think I'm gonna. I'll just do some smoothing work. Like smooth out all the casting marks on the exhaust and intake. I'm gonna see if my machinist friend will mill the base to level (just a 0.001 or 2 ) was just getting into the hype around the forum but I don't think it's gonna matter to me.

Nope just pretty scored on the exhaust side redfin. I'll post pictures when I'm at work tomorrow.

good tips with those clips. I'll try to be extra careful not to loose them. First time doing piston work so it should be interesting. Is there any jigs that can be made to get the wrist pin out easier??how easy are they to get out?

 

[adkranger]

Wrist pin removal is not too difficult, just take some care not to tweak anything. I made a wood jig to hold the rod out of 1", wide enough to bridge over crank opening, narrow enough to fit within the "well". Cut a narrow slot to fit the rod (1/2" ?). Remove one of the circ clips then tap out pin opposite side while supporting the piston with a second block of wood (don't want to put excessive force on rod/bearings/crank). I use a small soft blow hammer and a finish nail set (like a punch)(stanley? Seems to have a good taper to fit multiple wrist pin holes and is small enough in outer diameter to fit through the piston easily).

 

[nikb47]

I would be interested in that cylinder if you're just going to toss it anyway... Thank you and good luck on your repair.

 

[Welder56]

Haha I wasn't going to toss it away honestly. I was gonna take my time, try working some magic on it and keep it a spare. Just for something to work on after i got the saw where I want it.

Sweet man I'm gonna try make a jig out of steel and see how it works. I have a good idea how I'd do it. Time will tell tho haha

 

[adkranger]

"I'm gonna try make a jig out of steel"

I might use AL if I were you, softer. But ideally it shouldn't matter because if done right that lower jig just holds the piston/rod in place and doesn't impart any lateral forces.