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That's a few grades prettier than mine! And mine just has a stock Chinese top end with base gasket delete in addition to the muffler mod (although apparently some now feel that makes it a modified saw :nofunny:) so I am sure yours runs much stronger.

Well, don't worry Steve, we still wouldn't be in the same class (by those rules anyway), because mine's got a carb and boot off a 359, making it a "race saw".
 
Also as someone said, give that saw a muffler mod, doesn't have to be huge, just drill a few holes be hind the deflector...then open the deflector louvers up some with a flathead screw driver....lastly, trim the "limiter tab" off the screw and retune...these 250 really wake up with these simple mods.....

Not sure I want to monkey with the saw just yet, runs fine even with the safety chain so the upgrade there should be a nice improvement.
 
Not sure I want to monkey with the saw just yet, runs fine even with the safety chain so the upgrade there should be a nice improvement.
Hey I respect that....I USED to think the same way....

As time has went on and I have rebuilt more saws than I can remember, you realize that a saw can be "better" than when it left the factory...just has to be in moderation....

Hell I remember years ago I was "afraid" to ruin my 250 by modding it....fast forward to takday, I do some simple mods to a brand new 461 right from the get go....
 
Hey I respect that....I USED to think the same way....

As time has went on and I have rebuilt more saws than I can remember, you realize that a saw can be "better" than when it left the factory...just has to be in moderation....

Hell I remember years ago I was "afraid" to ruin my 250 by modding it....fast forward to takday, I do some simple mods to a brand new 461 right from the get go....
Agree. I can't think of any modern saws that wouldn't react positively to at least a muffler mod.
 
Agree. I can't think of any modern saws that wouldn't react positively to at least a muffler mod.
Yes sir....I am not talking about "porting" per say, just giving the saw more air and fuel....

The more saws a guy works on the more he sees what is happens and what needs to be done...

And I am not implying the OP or anyone else doesn't know this already!!!!
 
I know I just did a 025 that had no H screw at all

All of the 250 I have done had limiters....you can adjust the carb, but you can only go so far out on the H then it hits the limit stop...I just simply grind it down with the dremel or shave of with razor, whichever is closest at the time...

Personally no problems.....my personal 250 starts at good in 10 degrees as it does in 90....

I have had guys flood them....they were just simply trying to start the saw in choke.....as soon an the saw coughs, they have to move it to half idle....

What starting problems do you run into??

I've been able to tune mine in 'OK' (L&H) without running into a stop - so far. But I haven't actually checked it out deep enough to see if there is actually a stop there. I got it used, so also a chance someone else already doctored the stop, I suppose. I also haven't touched the muffler yet - but also haven't looked at it to see if someone else has. (Often thought it didn't quite sound stock). I just ran it when I got it (after getting a new B&C) and didn't think about those things.

Starting problems - it won't. Usually every time I shut it off then tried to restart it hot, I could be assured that it wouldn't start. It acted like it flooded itself on shut down - I would pull & pull & pull with no choke, no luck. Full throttle no choke, nothing. Last resort 'maybe a little choke' - nothing. It would have to sit for like half an hour before it could come to life again. Plug reading was inconclusive to me - didn't look wet, but maybe a little damp. And cranking it over with the plug out then trying it again usually didn't help either. My last session with the tuning screws, I set it to idle lower - like, barely idling - and leaned it out a bit. I think it did start hot a couple times after that, but I haven't used it where I've had to restart it hot, for quite a while. So not sure if that really did anything or not. It's a love/hate thing - really love using it, but when it gets into that I'm ready to pitch the thing. Starts awesome when cold - 2 or 3 pulls with choke on to a bite, then one more with it off.
 
B
I've been able to tune mine in 'OK' (L&H) without running into a stop - so far. But I haven't actually checked it out deep enough to see if there is actually a stop there. I got it used, so also a chance someone else already doctored the stop, I suppose. I also haven't touched the muffler yet - but also haven't looked at it to see if someone else has. (Often thought it didn't quite sound stock). I just ran it when I got it (after getting a new B&C) and didn't think about those things.

Starting problems - it won't. Usually every time I shut it off then tried to restart it hot, I could be assured that it wouldn't start. It acted like it flooded itself on shut down - I would pull & pull & pull with no choke, no luck. Full throttle no choke, nothing. Last resort 'maybe a little choke' - nothing. It would have to sit for like half an hour before it could come to life again. Plug reading was inconclusive to me - didn't look wet, but maybe a little damp. And cranking it over with the plug out then trying it again usually didn't help either. My last session with the tuning screws, I set it to idle lower - like, barely idling - and leaned it out a bit. I think it did start hot a couple times after that, but I haven't used it where I've had to restart it hot, for quite a while. So not sure if that really did anything or not. It's a love/hate thing - really love using it, but when it gets into that I'm ready to pitch the thing. Starts awesome when cold - 2 or 3 pulls with choke on to a bite, then one more with it off.
too bad you don't have a dead pile, you could swap coils....

You can pop the 2-nuts off the muffler and take off the deflector and seenif it has extra holes....also a good time to clean or remove the screen if you want to...

But no, even with my personal 250, it starts 1-pull when warm....I literally can't fault the saw in anyway..
 
Maybe I should just get a new coil anyway, depending how it works the next few times out. I don't think they cost all that much - or do they? Also not sure on quality of after market ones - that might be one item I'd want to go OEM on. Like I said, aside from that issue & without even checking out hopping it up - I really like the saw and it seems to punch above its weight while being super easy to handle.
 
Maybe I should just get a new coil anyway, depending how it works the next few times out. I don't think they cost all that much - or do they? Also not sure on quality of after market ones - that might be one item I'd want to go OEM on. Like I said, aside from that issue & without even checking out hopping it up - I really like the saw and it seems to punch above its weight while being super easy to handle.
Yes, when you get it to run right, you will like it....

I don't know what they run, I have a dead pile that seems to grow daily, lol....so I just rob good parts off of dead saws...

Hell go to a local dealer they may have a dead one around and hook you up
 
Personally I thought the Carlton was more durable than Oregon but less durable than Stihl. Didn't cut as fast as either of the other two.
I much prefer Stihl chains but I stocked up on Oregon LGX 3/8 in 20" and 25" for $10 and $12. Tried several Carlton loops in .325 on 028 and had good experience. Tried a couple Chinese chains...crap

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I probably have more LGX than all other makes/styles of chain put together for my full 3/8 lineup as you can find great prices if you watch the likes of Loggerchain, Baileys, LCS, and Amazon for specials. If I was to pay retail, Stihl RS is a better deal as long as you keep your bar out of the rocks LOL.
 
I probably have more LGX than all other makes/styles of chain put together for my full 3/8 lineup as you can find great prices if you watch the likes of Loggerchain, Baileys, LCS, and Amazon for specials. If I was to pay retail, Stihl RS is a better deal as long as you keep your bar out of the rocks LOL.
Yes, specials were at Left Coast Supply. I ordered a loop of 36" .063 and they included with in the free shipping too. Great vendor. Buy with confidence.

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