Stihl is certainly proud of their chain

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I agree but I've also had to file oregon and stihl right out of the box. It just depends if the idiot at the chain factory dressed the grinder wheel right that morning.:cheers:

Yea, i hear that! I always give the drags on a new chain alittle zip. On stihl rsf you just need to take a hair off to make the chain "self feed". Seems like oregon skip chain(the name i dunno) takes about two licks to get it going. IMO they are both far superior in design to the Carlton stuff..
 
You know that one really famous shop in Centralia, WA, which is supposed to not be named here? I just picked up 2 x 25" loops of Stihl RSLHK for about 25 bones. That's right, 12 1/2 bones per. I bought the semi-skip because I wanted to try it, and took advantage of their "two-for-one" pricing. I have sung their praises elsewhere and elsewhen, but I sing once again, because they truly rock.
 
I have had similar exp. to most, I like the Stihl chain as well. I bought 2 20" loops of 3/8 .50 from my dealer this week for $ 33.67. First one is full price, 2nd is 1/2 off. That's been his standard for a few years now. A decent deal I think.

Headed out cuttin now. Have a good day.

That's gotta be the Saw crib in Kazoo.

I like thier Chain prices too. But the drive is a bit much for me.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote
 
I'm gonna put something out there and let guys make up their own mind.

I made a 72DL loop up of both Carlton and Stihl 3/8" .063" semi chisel (36DL of each brand on the same loop), then went nuts on some rough stuff and visibly inspected the lead cutting edges. People who can make up chains should try this. The same chain will endure the exact same conditions and then you can make your own minds up.

However this only shows toughness whereas in clean, green, soft timber I'm sure other factors come into play such as vibration which is why many people may prefer Stihl chain.

It's funny though how a lot of Aussies who cut/mill some of the toughest wood in some of the toughest conditions on earth use Carlton and swear by it despite trying other brands. Horses for courses I suppose :cheers: The Windsor chain I have in stock is also excellent gear and wears very well by mine and customer's accounts.

A lot of guys here that do a lot of cutting like Stihl chain, but I believe there are also a lot who've jumped on the Stihl bandwagon that probably only put one tank a year through their saws. They say Stihl chain is the best ever blah blah but have never even given other chains a try. They just parrot what other's say.
For interest's sake do the pro cutters who use Husky saws also use Stihl chain? Just an honest question ;)
I have used Stihl RSC and like it but in my opinion it's no better than LGX but slightly smoother than Carlton LM. Doesn't wear much better (if any) than either in my experience. Out of the box on the RSC I also had to drop the rakers, it felt like I had to push it through the cut. After that though it cut like a champ.
All things being equal though Stihl gear is way overpriced in Australia - I've heard up to $0.85 per DL. Best price I've been able to get on a 100' roll on is AUD$486 inc. GST and freight to me which is actually very very good. At this price I could sell it 25% below local Stihl dealers and still make a tidy profit.
 
Last edited:
MCW, as always, speaks sense.

My Stihl bias, such that it is, stems from the fact that I have an excellent dealer right over yonder -->

I have and run Oregon chains as well, and have several brands of bars (just ordered a Sugihara RW, reviews to come after I've run it)

My experience is that all of the major manufacturers make quality products which each have strengths and weaknesses, which is par for course with any manufactured product. Heard somewhere "ain't no such thing as perfect -- you gotta choose which factor you're willing to compromise on".

Stihl chain, with all of its hard chrome, is pretty tough stuff, and stretch is minimal. It's also an everloving ##### to repair if it gets rocked. Oregon, slightly softer, is WAY easier to sharpen, but dulls faster.

Run 'em all. I bet you'll find a bell curve, with cutting speed on one end and durability on the other. I say choose a chain based on your operational needs. My operational needs are two: minimum down-time, and dealer support. I'm not at all concerned with fast or efficient cutting because I'm hand-holding a fleet of baby saw users, and the experienced folk on my crew already know how to take care for their stuff and what they want. If somebody thinks full-comp round semi-chisel cuts too slow, and knows how to maintain a chain, I'll give them something more aggressive.

'Fact, I just got a guy from a prior seasonal crew a Helitack job based almost entirely on my description of his maintenance habits. This stuff is important. Anybody who expects a tool, any tool, to last forever, without maintenance, is both foolish and delusional.

So: I believe that it's safe to say that there's no such thing as the "BEST" of any product which has enough manufacturers that there is competition. I also believe that experience and circumstance determine what is the "BEST" tool for a job.

All sophistry aside, if you're throwin' fat chips, you probably have a chain that meets your needs. Rock on witcher bad self.
 
MCW, as always, speaks sense.

Aww shucks :blush: Thanks madhatte :cheers:

But seriously, despite having a trade account with the Carlton importers, if Carlton chain was crap I wouldn't sell it. I also have a fair amount of Windsor chain in stock that I bought WITHOUT a trade account because I like it and it was a good price from a good dealer.
I use Carlton/Windsor myself and having a reasonable CAD disorder, access to a lot of different brands of stuff at cheap prices, and access to a lot of trees, I have gathered a vast array of differing brands/types of chains and bars and tried them all. I even bought two GB Pro Tops in 20" 3/8" .063" just so I could try Stihl semi chisel chain (which is standard .063" guage in Australia). As a rule I use .050" on all my bars under 32".

I'm one of the lucky ones though - I have a well paid full time job outside of Chainsawville to help fund my CAD and prop up my chainsaw business but am also getting paid for tree felling which has well and truly covered the costs of every saw I own :)

I try not to talk down brands of chain unless I've given them a workout myself. I've run full chisel in conditions where I should be running chipper and vice versa. When I was in Tasmania last year I even bought some Stihl RSC to see what all the fuss was about ;)
I even sent a brand new 72DL 3/8" .058" loop of Stihl semi chisel to Rick (tdi-rick) for free just to try out alongside the Windsor and Carlton I sold him. This Stihl chain had been sold to a customer by a local Stihl dealer despite him requiring .050" chain! I don't use .058" guage so thought Rick may as well use it. I think he liked all three brands? Rick? Where are ya?

Put it this way, if I could buy all chain easily at the same price I would "probably" run Stihl RSC in full chisel but definately Carlton/Windsor in semi chisel and chipper.
 
I've been very happy with my Woodland Pro/Carlton chain but thought I would pick up a loop of Stihl today and see what all the fuss is about. $24 for a 20" loop compared to $15 for Woodland Pro. I think I'll stick with WP. :mad:

:popcorn:

Look around, I hear tell of some shops selling 20" yellow box stihl for $14.50...

There is a difference. While I like softer chain/round ground for dirty work (logs that have been skidded, stumping, etc) the harder Stihl chain will hold an edge longer in clean wood.
 
Last edited:
having used all three brands, i can say this: Stihl chain is very good, cuts fast, holds an edge well, stretches very little. oregon chain, also cuts fast, doesn't hold an edge quite as well as stihl chain, and stretches an ungodly amount. WP/carlton chain cuts fast, holds a decent edge, and stretches slightly more than stihl chain, but not as much as oregon. i use wp/carlton pretty much exclusively because of the performance and the price. if money was no object, i'd probably use stihl. . . .other than the fact that i just don't like stihl products very much (JMHO!!!!) :jawdrop:
 
I've bought and used some stihl chain. One of the stihl dealers was selling oregon in the stihl boxes in full skip. I guess they ran out of the stihl or thought no one would notice. I ran it anyway. It was about $14 for a 20" loop. I thought that was a good deal. It does stay sharp a little longer but it right at double the cost in my area. The dolmar dealer will sell me a 28" loop of oregon for $16. 32" for $17-18 I can't remember. The stihl dealer was $37 for a 32".
 
Having been a machinist for a number of years and in my apprenticeship had to hand file a 6" block of steel down to a 1" block, I have some knowledge of filing and metal and the quality of both.

That being said when I logged a lot more up in Wisconsin. I cut and skid all my logs. Sometimes my wife would skid and buck up, but for the most part I did it all.

I was in very good shape and the slowing down to sharpen a chain or fill a gas/oil tank was taking too much time. So Karen would help by always providing a "fresh" chain and filled saw. Usually putting the chains on at the ATV and walking them into me and taking the "used" saw back out for attention. I cared two saws and no gas or oil, as she did all the filling and chain swapping.

At that time and still have some of them now. I had Oregon, Carlton/Woodsman and Stihl chains. Now mind you I just got the saws in ready to run fashion, I sharpened all the chains on the same chain grinder and/or hand filed them as needed. So that was the same.

When I was tired and recieved a "new fresh" saw and chain, I didn't check to see what chain it has on it, I just ran the thing, until the saw was empty or chain dull, and kept track of my trees cut.

I could always tell which chain was on the saw after cutting with it for awhile. Sort of a blind test if you will, and it was a blind test that lasted for a long while and many different conditions.


1. Stihl is/was the hardest or (better stated) lasted the longest.

2. Carlton/Woodsman Pro was 2nd best.

3. Oregon was/is so soft I won't use it and I don't know why anyone except someone who likes to take breaks often to sharpen their chain, would use it.

Now that is coming from a professional situation where I was paid on "piece work" or board footage. I don't like, that Stihl is more expensive initially, but it is. I wanted the costwise cheaper Oregon or Carlton to be a better chain.

That being what it is. From a professional/piece work point of view. The additional roughly $100 a roll that Stihl costs per roll is a drop in the bucket when you compare it to how much longer it lasts and the additional time it saves you and the increased productivity you get out of it. It flat out, is a better, higher quality tool.

How does all of this fit into the world of arborists, loggers paid hourly, loggers paid piece work, firewood cutters, backyard loggers, rank amateurs, racers and/or complete idiots with chainsaws?

As with any other quality tool like a Snap-on, Starret and such. Typically only your higher skilled craftmen or skilled labor will ever notice or appreciate the additional time and quality invested into a tool, or at least to a level that they can or will justify it on a financial level at a bare minimum.

If we give some backyard tree trimmer with a Wildthing, all three chains and a 6" pine tree to cut, and ask for his report.

He will say,"They all cut the wood."

If he rocks the Stihl before making a cut, he say it sucks without justification.

Now if the same amateur is now asked to sharpen the three chains, by hand, he will expound on the easiness of sharpening the Oregon, because it is soft. So he may like that, because he doesn't make any more money whether or not the chains last any longer. He only looks at the small picture of getting through this distasteful task of sharpening a chain, as if that is how we measure the success of the day and not (board footage) on the ground. If the chain gets dull, now he can drink some sweet tea and rest.

Another scenerio is that you might employ several cutters, and in that you will have varying degrees of pride in the workmanship and tools provided. You might start out buying your men the best, and hoping for the best to come of it. But alas, that does not happen (an ever increasing problem these days). So you waste the extra money on the better chain only to find that 3 out of 5 cutters end up throwing half used chains away in the timber or who knows what other excuses may arise, but they do, and so, in this case you as the owner and purchaser of the more expensive, higher quality tooling, are not "encouraged" to keep up the quality, because you have employees that don't know or don't care to take advantage of that higher quality and produce more in return.

I say all of that to say this. Stihl chain is the Snap-on of the chain world. It is the best at getting wood cut, period. You may not be in a situation where it makes economical sense to spend the money on it, and that is fine. Or you may simply lack the skill and experience to know there is much of a difference between chain qualities and therefore exclaim that whatever you own is the best (for you) therefore it must be the best for everyone (not true).

That is my opinion and experience on chain quality.

Sam
 
I agree with a lot of what you just said. If I was cutting to make a living I would probably run the stihl chain. Just being a weekend firewood and cookie cutter I can't see spending twice the money on a chain that I could wreck with the first cut on a nail or bullet in the tree.
 
Having been a machinist for a number of years and in my apprenticeship had to hand file a 6" block of steel down to a 1" block, I have some knowledge of filing and metal and the quality of both.

That being said when I logged a lot more up in Wisconsin. I cut and skid all my logs. Sometimes my wife would skid and buck up, but for the most part I did it all.

I was in very good shape and the slowing down to sharpen a chain or fill a gas/oil tank was taking too much time. So Karen would help by always providing a "fresh" chain and filled saw. Usually putting the chains on at the ATV and walking them into me and taking the "used" saw back out for attention. I cared two saws and no gas or oil, as she did all the filling and chain swapping.

At that time and still have some of them now. I had Oregon, Carlton/Woodsman and Stihl chains. Now mind you I just got the saws in ready to run fashion, I sharpened all the chains on the same chain grinder and/or hand filed them as needed. So that was the same.

When I was tired and recieved a "new fresh" saw and chain, I didn't check to see what chain it has on it, I just ran the thing, until the saw was empty or chain dull, and kept track of my trees cut.

I could always tell which chain was on the saw after cutting with it for awhile. Sort of a blind test if you will, and it was a blind test that lasted for a long while and many different conditions.


1. Stihl is/was the hardest or (better stated) lasted the longest.

2. Carlton/Woodsman Pro was 2nd best.

3. Oregon was/is so soft I won't use it and I don't know why anyone except someone who likes to take breaks often to sharpen their chain, would use it.

Now that is coming from a professional situation where I was paid on "piece work" or board footage. I don't like, that Stihl is more expensive initially, but it is. I wanted the costwise cheaper Oregon or Carlton to be a better chain.

That being what it is. From a professional/piece work point of view. The additional roughly $100 a roll that Stihl costs per roll is a drop in the bucket when you compare it to how much longer it lasts and the additional time it saves you and the increased productivity you get out of it. It flat out, is a better, higher quality tool.

How does all of this fit into the world of arborists, loggers paid hourly, loggers paid piece work, firewood cutters, backyard loggers, rank amateurs, racers and/or complete idiots with chainsaws?

As with any other quality tool like a Snap-on, Starret and such. Typically only your higher skilled craftmen or skilled labor will ever notice or appreciate the additional time and quality invested into a tool, or at least to a level that they can or will justify it on a financial level at a bare minimum.

If we give some backyard tree trimmer with a Wildthing, all three chains and a 6" pine tree to cut, and ask for his report.

He will say,"They all cut the wood."

If he rocks the Stihl before making a cut, he say it sucks without justification.

Now if the same amateur is now asked to sharpen the three chains, by hand, he will expound on the easiness of sharpening the Oregon, because it is soft. So he may like that, because he doesn't make any more money whether or not the chains last any longer. He only looks at the small picture of getting through this distasteful task of sharpening a chain, as if that is how we measure the success of the day and not (board footage) on the ground. If the chain gets dull, now he can drink some sweet tea and rest.

Another scenerio is that you might employ several cutters, and in that you will have varying degrees of pride in the workmanship and tools provided. You might start out buying your men the best, and hoping for the best to come of it. But alas, that does not happen (an ever increasing problem these days). So you waste the extra money on the better chain only to find that 3 out of 5 cutters end up throwing half used chains away in the timber or who knows what other excuses may arise, but they do, and so, in this case you as the owner and purchaser of the more expensive, higher quality tooling, are not "encouraged" to keep up the quality, because you have employees that don't know or don't care to take advantage of that higher quality and produce more in return.

I say all of that to say this. Stihl chain is the Snap-on of the chain world. It is the best at getting wood cut, period. You may not be in a situation where it makes economical sense to spend the money on it, and that is fine. Or you may simply lack the skill and experience to know there is much of a difference between chain qualities and therefore exclaim that whatever you own is the best (for you) therefore it must be the best for everyone (not true).

That is my opinion and experience on chain quality.

Sam

I can't get over this hand filing a 6" block of steel down to 1", how wide and long was it? how many files did it take? how long did it take and was there a time limit? did you have to put an edge on it ? sorry for all the ?'s but this is interesting.:cheers:
 
I say all of that to say this. Stihl chain is the Snap-on of the chain world.

It's made by someone else, on the same line from the same material as a supposed lesser brand, marked up 400%, and sold on revolving credit to people who are impressed by brand names?

:poke:
 
To add insult to injury. I tried the loop of the 3/8 RSC in oak and hickory. The performance was not, not, not good, The chain was dull in less than 1/2 tank of fuel. I had a second saw cutting with H-30 narrow kerf chain and it lasted all afternoon. My opinion is the RSC is suited only for soft wood, pine, balsa and toilet paper. I returned to the same wood one week later with Oregon 72DP semi chisel chain and it preformed very good. It required additional force to cut at the same speed, but it held an edge all afternoon including a nick on a log chain, dam...
For me there will be no more over priced Stihl chain in box.

ZG
 
A lot of people equate more expensive as better. Sometimes they're right but a lot of times they're wrong.

Buying Stihl products is a lot like buying John Deere. They both make quality products but you're paying a lot more because of the name.
 
It's made by someone else, on the same line from the same material as a supposed lesser brand, marked up 400%, and sold on revolving credit to people who are impressed by brand names?

:poke:

Stihl makes their own bars and chain, the only saw brand that does this.
 
I work for a german company producing high quality roller chains, and it's a constant battle to sell a better but obviously more expensive product against cheaper asian imports. The quality of a chain is related to the quality of the individual components (pins, side plates, teeth). I shall refrain from the different steps of the manufactering process, but the quality of steel chosen, the hardening process and especially the machining tolerances do determine the quality of your chain.

A chain that elongates quickly is often an indication of poor manufactering tolerances, and is causing excessive wear on the driving components, being in this case the sprocket and saw engine. I cannot comment really on the quality of the cutting teeth, but as many have already experienced, the Stihl chains have a better chrome layer and are simply staying sharper longer.

Although production is highly automated, the Stihl plant is located in Wil, Switzerland, a country with probably the highest labour rate in the world.

All this comes at a cost, and explains the higher price. It is up to the enduser to decide if he wants a quality tool or something cheaper thay may fit his bill also. You don't always have to buy the best there is, just buy what covers your need.

I like quality so I buy Stihl chain for my working saws,. But as Thall indicated, there's a comfortable margin on the gross prices of these chains, so you'll have to do some searching to find a good dealer, as in most cases.
 
Stihl makes their own bars and chain, the only saw brand that does this.

<object width="320" height="265"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/KTwnwbG9YLE&hl=en_US&fs=1&rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/KTwnwbG9YLE&hl=en_US&fs=1&rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="320" height="265"></embed></object>



:hmm3grin2orange:
 
Last edited:
[snip]
I even sent a brand new 72DL 3/8" .058" loop of Stihl semi chisel to Rick (tdi-rick) for free just to try out alongside the Windsor and Carlton I sold him. This Stihl chain had been sold to a customer by a local Stihl dealer despite him requiring .050" chain! I don't use .058" guage so thought Rick may as well use it. I think he liked all three brands? Rick? Where are ya?

Put it this way, if I could buy all chain easily at the same price I would "probably" run Stihl RSC in full chisel but definately Carlton/Windsor in semi chisel and chipper.

That'd be my evaluation too Matt.

I really like RSC in clean Red Gum, not that fussed on RMC and don't think it's anything out of the box compared to Windsor and Carlton semi in the old dead Box I'm cutting here.

The only loops of Oregon I have are one loop of Vanguard (very little use, it's slow) and DP with the bumper link. I prefer to run Carlton semi as It feels like it holds an edge longer and feels faster.
The Oregon (and Stihl) chains are much smoother than Carlton. Actually the Windsor is pretty smooth too. The Carlton chain lets you know what's happening at the cutters. It's not bothersome, but something you notice when swapping loops, which I have to do frequently at times.

Windsor is the easiest to file out of all of them IMO, and FWIW I've found it very hard to replicate their sideplate angles hand filing.
Make that I've failed to replicate their OE cutter angle at all, so It'll be interesting to see how the less aggressive angles I've come up with work.

Bear in mind that most all I cut is mostly dirty old Box (nearly always with termite chimneys) so I'm often swapping out chains (and it's not really a fair comparo for the chains)
Dead Yellow and White Box is hard as nails to cut too, so hard a manual splitter just bounces off it, and a 30 tonne hydraulic splitter with a 4 cylinder Kubota diesel can stall out on it.

There'll be a mix of clean, green Red Gum, varying Box and soft old Peppercorns to go in a month or so, so it'll be interesting to feel how the different brands go in the mixed cutting.
 
I work for a german company producing high quality roller chains, and it's a constant battle to sell a better but obviously more expensive product against cheaper asian imports. The quality of a chain is related to the quality of the individual components (pins, side plates, teeth). I shall refrain from the different steps of the manufactering process, but the quality of steel chosen, the hardening process and especially the machining tolerances do determine the quality of your chain.

A chain that elongates quickly is often an indication of poor manufactering tolerances, and is causing excessive wear on the driving components, being in this case the sprocket and saw engine. I cannot comment really on the quality of the cutting teeth, but as many have already experienced, the Stihl chains have a better chrome layer and are simply staying sharper longer.

Although production is highly automated, the Stihl plant is located in Wil, Switzerland, a country with probably the highest labour rate in the world.

All this comes at a cost, and explains the higher price. It is up to the enduser to decide if he wants a quality tool or something cheaper thay may fit his bill also. You don't always have to buy the best there is, just buy what covers your need.

I like quality so I buy Stihl chain for my working saws,. But as Thall indicated, there's a comfortable margin on the gross prices of these chains, so you'll have to do some searching to find a good dealer, as in most cases.

This is a good summary of chain design, but it is only one side of the story. The chain has to be viewed as part of a system. This includes the all of the components that touch the chain. You could have the tightest manufacturing tolerances in world and put them on a bar that wears at higher rate. The effort would be wasted. I have very little problem with chain stretch once the initial run in is over.


ZG
 

Latest posts

Back
Top