Stihl MS 362 - First report

[GM-GUY]

I got the Tech Tac - nice little device - thank you to those who have mentioned it in other threads so I could find it.

I ran the saw and I get 13K RPM warmed up, top end. I'll check it again after the next good work out when 'hot'. Cold it's at 3K RPM idle - but I'm not going to fool with it.

The book says it hits max HP at 9.5K RPM - so it looks like the saw is happily rich and acceleration/throttle response is excellent.

Unless someone has a reason that I should change it - it's going to stay this way until 10 tanks of fuel and I'll give it a final tweaking.

I'm also running the Amsoil Mix Oil at 43:1 (3oz/1Gal)

 

[Anthony_Va.]

13k should be good if you want it on the rich side. I myself wouldnt worry about a break in period. My saws have always been good runners and I give partial credit to my hard break in technique. I put them right to work right out of the box. It seems to make a better running saw that way.

You want your max HP rpm in the cut. Have you tached it in the cut yet? If it's pulling 9.5 in the cut then thats optimum.

Is your saw running pretty rich at 13k? Can you hear it burbling(missing) in the cut?

 

[GM-GUY]

Maybe here and there, depending on what and how hard I push it. I'll measure the next time I'm out cutting - thanks for the tip.

 

[STIHLTHEDEERE]

i had a chance to run my 362 right beside my 562xp today. the 562 is a little lighter,and slimmer built. the 562 is also a little snappier on the throttle. both saws 18" bars buried in hardwood, they are pretty much dead even. one race, one would win, then the other. the 562 gets the edge because it will get to max RPM quicker. i still say stihl has a definate edge in build quality, and shows it well in a side by side comparison when torn down. i bought the 562 to see what all the hype is about, other than the auto-tune, it does not impress me. it is typical husky build and design,it is a rocket,but it won't be around long. i plan on throwing mine on ebay tomorrow night, the 362 even with a carb, will always be my go-to saw, lots of power, and fairly light weight to boot. it is an absolute delight for firewood with an 18" bar.

 

[bigredd]

Just found this thread. Glad to see there are lots of satisfied MS362 owners. I just picked up a very nice used 362 from local CL with 18" bar. It was real dirty but cleaned up very nice (see pics).

I'm thinking of getting a 25" Stihl Rollomatic ES bar, but was wonder if it has enough balls using a full comp 33RSC chain. Have already ordered an emblem for it. Starts and runs very strong, with 155psi compression.

Before Cleaning
http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx78/bigredd1/Stihl 362/IMG_0009.jpg
http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx78/bigredd1/Stihl 362/IMG_0011.jpg
http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx78/bigredd1/Stihl 362/IMG_0010.jpg
http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx78/bigredd1/Stihl 362/IMG_0014.jpg

After Cleaning
http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx78/bigredd1/Stihl 362/IMG_0018.jpg
http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx78/bigredd1/Stihl 362/IMG_0017.jpg
http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx78/bigredd1/Stihl 362/IMG_0022.jpg
http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx78/bigredd1/Stihl 362/IMG_0023.jpg

 

[cuttingintime]

New saw rep sent your way. The ms 362 is at top of my must have list.

 

[hiluxxulih]

My Stihl MS362 has a build date or November 2009 with about 5 tanks through it , is there any differences with the brand new ones updates and so on ?

 

[tommyus4]

My Stihl MS362 has a build date or November 2009 with about 5 tanks through it , is there any differences with the brand new ones updates and so on ?

I think the newer ones have metal clips at the bottom of the air filter. Maybe all of them now. Don't know. I have one on the right side and that's it. Supposed to be two. I haven't had the time to go back and have them look at it/get another clip.

Also, put a bunch more tanks through it. If your'e happy now, wait until it breaks in. I went from liking it to loving it.

I'm thinking of getting a 25" Stihl Rollomatic ES bar, but was wonder if it has enough balls using a full comp 33RSC chain

As per the 25" bar: Let it do the work and it does not bog down. I got the bar and chain for $40 extra when I bought the saw. (Saw came with a 20).

 

[bigredd]

As per the 25" bar: Let it do the work and it does not bog down. I got the bar and chain for $40 extra when I bought the saw. (Saw came with a 20).

That's kind of what I was thinking. The stock 362 w/25" bar should complement my (tlandrum) ported 372, and better in neighborhoods where noise is a problem.

 

[GM-GUY]

After the saw sitting over the winter I have a colder weather review than my May/June operation (temps about 40F)
.
1) The saw starts and runs fine - it does bog when just started cold if you go right to the throttle - but it doesn't do it once warm. It sounds like the brake is on, once warmed (10 seconds tops, it will not repeat)

2) I now notice a 'bearing noise' from the bar area of the power head - I'm guessing it is the needle bearing and normal. It happens after running the saw at WOT (or close to) and coming down to idle. Maybe it did it last year and I didn't hear it - maybe the cold weather. When I was done yesterday I pulled the clutch drum, blew it out with compressed air and greased the bearing with EPO grease.

3) The Tech-Tac still works and is showing me 13.4K at unloaded WOT and ~11K buried in a 20" pine at WOT. Running a 16" bar.
It's abit higher than last year - but I attribute that to temp - denser air.

4) I may have to swap my bar already - I think the tip is bad. It feels rough in places (yes I grease it) and it wobbles some. I also notice that when the chain is slack I can easily pull it around the bar, when properly tensioned it has some rough spots, maybe every 5-6 drive links - a regular interval. The bar is new - it's seen 10% life of one chain use. I'll test on the next pine tree and if I notice issues I'll go to the 16" Stihl Bar.

5) I do notice that the saw sounds like the brake is on when it runs low on gas and I hit the throttle - these were some big pines I cut and had more height and branches than the ones I cut last year - I hadn't run the saw low before. I thought something was pinched on the log I was bucking - it didn't occur to me that a 20" log (50 feet of it) would burn that much gas cutting to 16" or less length.

6) The oiler is working nicely with the fuel usage - The oil tank is almost empty when I run the saw out of gas.


No muffler mods yet - but I got a dremel for Christmas with a cutter and sanding wheel - I just need to buy the husky screen and deflector parts and retune the carb richer - I'll wait till after the saw is 1 year old - no more warranty.

 

[nmurph]

It sounds like your saw is too lean on the L needle.

There is no way a bar should be worn out this quickly unless you are cutting in very sandy conditions. Bars should last 2-3 chains at least. I (and most here) don't grease tips. I think it just encourages grit to adhere.

You can MM that saw without using a deflector. Just pull the screen and enlarge the opening to the size of the stock deflector and re-install the screen.

 

[GM-GUY]

I didn't touch that one last year when I yanked the cap on the H screw. The chain doesn't move when I'm at idle, I thought that's what the L screw was for. Why would you think the L screw is off?

I should note the 'bearing noise' I mentioned sounds like a kids micro whistle on a matchbox car, in descending pitch from WOT to idle then it disappears. Not as loud as a kids whistle either - but it can be heard over the engine.

I know the bar should last longer but it's the only thing I can think that may cause the chain to have rough spots. Saw off, bar off, the drum spins freely with no noise; add the bar and chain with a slight dangle to the bottom of the chain (my storage setting) and it turns freely, tension it up for work (you can pull the chain DLs out of the groove at the middle of the bar) but sits snuggly while running and the chain when moved has rough spots at even intervals.


ON EDIT:

I read the book and know why you think the L screw it the problem (a minor tick CCW to richen it up may be in order)

While in the book, I flipped past the 'Winter Operation' section, that little door is in the summer position :censored: and it was ~40F (the book says below 50 is winter) - that may be part of it also.


ON EDIT #2:

It's a beautiful day (60F) and sunny - what better day than to go out and fiddle with the saw. I put a touch of CCW turn into the L screw and I have no more throttle hesitation.

I pulled the clutch drum again and inspected for gouges or heat marks on the needle bearing, shaft and drum. I found none - I re-greased the needle bearing and no more noise. The chain also seems to move better today after that.

I could be that or the fact I had it in the sun on pickup tailgate for 5 minutes to take a phone call.....


I checked the Tach again after the L screw adjustment - idle good, no chain movement and lost 100-200 RPM at idle. The top end I did notice something that I didn't last year. The RPMS build steadliy and go to about 13,500 then down to 12,500-12,000 at WOT. It's the last fraction of the throttle that the drop off occurs, it makes sense if you want the saw slightly rich at WOT. I didn't put the meter in HOLD mode today - that is how I noticed it.



ON A SIDE NOTE: How is the 036?