will do
Stihl ms200t bolt for bolt rebuild video
- Thread starter Mattyo
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ok... lone wolf, took your advice.
I pulled the high limiters off, screwed the high and low screws to their seat, and then out 1. VOILA... now they sound like they want to idle. did this to 2 of them so far. running saws in my basement is not the best of ideas.... so tomorrow I'll aim to tune better. that stupid high limiter ... I don't really know what was up with that
Justin, keep in touch, may bring them by monday anyway
I pulled the high limiters off, screwed the high and low screws to their seat, and then out 1. VOILA... now they sound like they want to idle. did this to 2 of them so far. running saws in my basement is not the best of ideas.... so tomorrow I'll aim to tune better. that stupid high limiter ... I don't really know what was up with that
Justin, keep in touch, may bring them by monday anyway
Now get a tach. The limiter was forced on Stihl by the EPA .
but my ear balls work fine
lemme stick them in wood tomorrow, no celebrating yet
Ok so how many RPMs you got at idle by ear.
juttree
ArboristSite Guru
That's good to hear. Did you start from 1 turn out on the low to begin with? It's just strange to have all three high's that much out of wack, especially if they had the limiters on.
one doesn't have limiter, but again, I was mainly messing with the low. I'll play a bit tomorrow and see what I can come up with, but it seems like this is on the right track. feels good to know I didn't mess up 3 $90 carbs.
Paragon Builder
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that would be my questions as well.... likely why I didn't touch it. I shoulda started from scratch in the first place. good lesson to learn. #1, get rid of limiters. #2, only work on saws that you can defeat the limiters
There is an overlap most people are unaware . Proof is in what he just did.
Really simple, 1 turn out on both H and L with no limiters. . Then get it to hold idle by turning the L , once idle holds then tweak the high so it is turning 14K. Done leave it alone if this dont do it check compression ,vac leaks ,if still running poorly replace carb.
very cool, thanks... I'll put it in wood tomorrow
Justin, if its cool, I may still drop by monday and we can play w/ some modded saws
Justin, if its cool, I may still drop by monday and we can play w/ some modded saws
juttree
ArboristSite Guru
Sounds goodvery cool, thanks... I'll put it in wood tomorrow
Justin, if its cool, I may still drop by monday and we can play w/ some modded saws
M
MattG
Guest
Dunno if it helps - but I got rid of the limiter cap on my ms200t with just a sharp knife blade, small pliers, and some patience. It's easy! No limiters also means you can blast carb cleaner through the ports on carb better anyway - for that reason alone you should ditch them!
I also recently changed out the clutch on mine due the chain turning at idle issue. I tried just new springs at first - for me a waste of time - the whole thing was pretty warped. A whole new stihl clutch was 30 english quid - so it was a no brainer. My saw is now even better than it was!
I also recently changed out the clutch on mine due the chain turning at idle issue. I tried just new springs at first - for me a waste of time - the whole thing was pretty warped. A whole new stihl clutch was 30 english quid - so it was a no brainer. My saw is now even better than it was!
Getting rid of the limiter is essential. ..I know this now.
Also...I thought it could just be weak clutch springs as well....it's not. My idle wasn't low enough...but good call. One time I forgot the clutch needle bearing on a Husky 350....idle was low...just couldn't get the chain to stop. The clutch drum was binding. Won't make that mistake again!
Your instructions for carb install were close. That carb does have to be fairly far out on the bolts to put the throttle rod on....and you have to hang the throttle rod on the throttle "cable " first...then on the carb. Then I just move the carb home. It's easier than halfway I think for that fuel line. Then choke rod...then tank vent. check choke and throttle ...black piece...nuts ...filter and cover. Had me real worried. Now it's easy!
Also...I thought it could just be weak clutch springs as well....it's not. My idle wasn't low enough...but good call. One time I forgot the clutch needle bearing on a Husky 350....idle was low...just couldn't get the chain to stop. The clutch drum was binding. Won't make that mistake again!
Your instructions for carb install were close. That carb does have to be fairly far out on the bolts to put the throttle rod on....and you have to hang the throttle rod on the throttle "cable " first...then on the carb. Then I just move the carb home. It's easier than halfway I think for that fuel line. Then choke rod...then tank vent.
check choke and throttle ...black piece...nuts ...filter and cover. Had me real worried. Now it's easy!
M
MattG
Guest
"Your instructions for carb install were close."
Glad to be of help! Sounds like you can do it in your sleep now....
Glad to be of help! Sounds like you can do it in your sleep now....
M
MattG
Guest
Dunno if you've removed the limiter yet - anyway - I know I said "it's easy" - however go easy. I won't want to put any radial stress thro the thread. It does have to seal there. You do read about lame carbs once a while, which do have the fault of leaking thro those very threads. Be cool!
Matt the one thing that is a must is for you to do is video the saw that had the machine work V a stock saw. My money is on stock! 
