I'll look into that and maybe make an addendum vid...tx
Stihl ms200t bolt for bolt rebuild video
- Thread starter Mattyo
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addendum vids are in the works....but I have a question:
Ok...all 3 saws now have a high idle issue. All 3 are pressure tested...so it isn't cranks seals...I can only crank out the low screw so much....it idles even but a bit high on all 3. The only thing I did consistently to all 3 I'd the acceleration pump delete...maybe I did something wrong there? Ideas?
there is no bog off idle, the throttle is responsive and snappy, no issue there, just can't get the idle down far enough to stop the chain from moving.
Ok...all 3 saws now have a high idle issue. All 3 are pressure tested...so it isn't cranks seals...I can only crank out the low screw so much....it idles even but a bit high on all 3. The only thing I did consistently to all 3 I'd the acceleration pump delete...maybe I did something wrong there? Ideas?
there is no bog off idle, the throttle is responsive and snappy, no issue there, just can't get the idle down far enough to stop the chain from moving.
juttree
ArboristSite Guru
While the saw is idling put the saw on the ground and push down on the handle and see if it changes. I know you pressure tested and it came out fine but the intake boots will hide very small holes without a problem. Once the handles are put on they get stretched and open and holes that didn't show in the test.
I did that, the idle didn't change...and the issue seems to be the same on all 3
I'm pretty sure I put the butteryfly on the carbs back correctly..
there would have to be a more significant air leak than a pinhole.. very frustrating
there would have to be a more significant air leak than a pinhole.. very frustrating
juttree
ArboristSite Guru
We're all three milled? If it's happening to all three then it's either the accelerator pump fix (the way you did it) or the milling that is causing the problem. Atleast that's my guess.
I've done tons of accelerator pump blocks on those carbs without any problems but I do it different from your way.
I've done tons of accelerator pump blocks on those carbs without any problems but I do it different from your way.
juttree
ArboristSite Guru
That's not true, I've been through it enough to know.
one was milled, one has a coke can gasket, one is stock ...didn't remove the head.
I guess I can try a new carb and see if that works, if so, I messed up 3 carbs.
I guess I can try a new carb and see if that works, if so, I messed up 3 carbs.
oh, and the top end rpm seems to be ok on all 3....its just the idle thats messed up
I even raised the metering lever up a bit, no help, its as if all 3 carbs can't delivery enough fuel at idle
I even raised the metering lever up a bit, no help, its as if all 3 carbs can't delivery enough fuel at idle
juttree
ArboristSite Guru
Checking with a known good carb would certainly be the quickest way to know. Do the owners have any good running 200t's that you could use a carb for a quick test?
dont know.... i may just pickup a cheapo one to see if there is a difference
a few things that kinda shore up the original video...just a few loose ends
juttree
ArboristSite Guru
Good job on the last video, I like people who aren't afraid to admit their mistakes.
Another way that I put the mufflers in is I put the screws in the muffler, tighten the first few threads into the gasket which has a tab that usually holds them in place, and place it through the tank opening while the saw is right side up. After that you can just flip it over and tighten it down. Put too many threads into the gasket and the muffler won't fit into the opening because it hits the side of the cylinder.
Another way that I put the mufflers in is I put the screws in the muffler, tighten the first few threads into the gasket which has a tab that usually holds them in place, and place it through the tank opening while the saw is right side up. After that you can just flip it over and tighten it down. Put too many threads into the gasket and the muffler won't fit into the opening because it hits the side of the cylinder.
What rpm?
yeah, those gaskets don't have a holder / tab...so couldn't do it that way, though that makes sense
have no idea... i don't have a tach, it just won't quite sit down though. again, its as if the carbs aren't flowing enough fuel, and I can't richen them up enough to get the rpm down
I just reseated the butterflys on all 3 ... maybe that was part of the problem. beats me though, will retest in the am
Well is the chain spinning at idle?
yes, the chain spins, can't lower the idle screw or richen up the carb enough to stop it
i've checked the clutch drums, the needles are fine and they are spinning free, so its not something binding, its the rpm that just won't go down
on my 372 I just build, i can richen it enough to stall it. not on these 200t's ... they richen to a point and then it stops richening, no matter how far out I bring the low screw
i've checked the clutch drums, the needles are fine and they are spinning free, so its not something binding, its the rpm that just won't go down
on my 372 I just build, i can richen it enough to stall it. not on these 200t's ... they richen to a point and then it stops richening, no matter how far out I bring the low screw
Didnt you do some port work though? If the butterfly's are closed all the way maybe the porting caused it?
only one is ported and decked, one has a coke can gasket, the other never had the head removed
seems to me that when I did the accelerator delete I musta messed something up, because thats the only thing common to these builds.
seems to me that when I did the accelerator delete I musta messed something up, because thats the only thing common to these builds.
Then the carb is causing it. You said it passes vac right? Did you test the carb too?
