Stihl MS210C problem starting and stopping

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

gregb7

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
May 8, 2013
Messages
37
Reaction score
1
Location
Globe, Az.
Hi,
I'm sort of a new member--I've been climbing 45 years working 8 tree services, but most with my own tree service and do most of my own repairs too, but I'm baffled on this one, and that is why I came here. I've read the forums on the topic I present below, and tried the suggestions, and will mention them now so you can suggest something else maybe--or adapt what others have suggested?

I've got a MS210C Stihl about 4 years old that cut great last spring for me, then would start up, but die, and after trying a few things that did not work, I put it away and used other saws. About 6 weeks ago, after other ground saws quit on me, I tried to buy new parts for the above saw, and test new things, and even brought it to 2 saw shops here who could not fix for over a month, for they were swamped, and i really need this saw now, for it is my best hope for a mid-range saw for a ground cut-ups saw--I have 2 others like this that also are on the blink with more serious problems it seems. What it does, is start up, and run for 3 seconds, then die. Now what I've done is this: Ordered 2 aftermarket fuel lines, as I did see some abrasion on my fuel line, but saw a kink on these two, when put in, and in pulling out and in when exasperated with all the things I've tried, these broke, and I went to original OEM Stihl fuel line ($20) but that still did not fix it. New fuel filter. New plug. New Carb kit, putting the lever connected to the jet EVEN with the top of the case as specified, L and H jets out 3/4 to 1 1 /2 turns at various stages that made no difference. I cleaned out the carbs carefully with air compressor 2" away--cleaned that little screen, etc. I tested the plug and got spark.. I checked muffler to see if it was plugged with carbon, and there is none. I also checked piston to see if any scoring, and there is none. I have avg. compression from just holding the rope and letting saw fall--from experience don't sense it is shot, but did not take a test with gauge--don't think it is that. I do have a comp. gauge--willing to test it if I thought that was the problem. What else is there?
Greg B.
 
Pull the mufler and check for scoreing . I had a MS 200t doing about the same thing , it ended up being scored . If thats not the prob. you may want to get a new carb. It shouldn't be that bad for this saw . The last one I got was around $25.00 . But I have a great dealer .
 
Pull the mufler and check for scoreing . I had a MS 200t doing about the same thing , it ended up being scored . If thats not the prob. you may want to get a new carb. It shouldn't be that bad for this saw . The last one I got was around $25.00 . But I have a great dealer .

I mentioned in first post there was no scoring anywhere--but I will look into a new carb--I suspect they are expensive for parts here--don't have a dealer who gives me any discounts--was $20 just for a new fuel line--but at last resort, will ask the cost on a new carb--maybe I got too close one time with my air compressor blowing out the air places and did damage?
I want to read what others say first--and I see below another mentions impulse line--need to see if I have that or not with schematic--then see about ordering that too if needed. If I have an impulse line, how do you test an impulse line to see if it is good?
 
I mentioned in first post there was no scoring anywhere--but I will look into a new carb--I suspect they are expensive for parts here--don't have a dealer who gives me any discounts--was $20 just for a new fuel line--but at last resort, will ask the cost on a new carb--maybe I got too close one time with my air compressor blowing out the air places and did damage?
I want to read what others say first--and I see below another mentions impulse line--need to see if I have that or not with schematic--then see about ordering that too if needed. If I have an impulse line, how do you test an impulse line to see if it is good?
The impulse line should be checked before you buy a carb.
 
Carb failures are chronic on those things. The carb should be less than $30.
 
Air leak suspected, does that model use an impulse line check that?

If by "impulse line" you mean fuel line, to the tank, that is ribbed, yes, I mentioned I just put in an OEM new Stihl fuel line this week that was $20--it didn't change a thing--still starts up then dies. And I already had put in 2 aftermarket new fuel lines that did the same, but I broke them putting them in and out testing various options, thinking air leak like you mentioned. It sounds indeed like an air leak--I suspected a fuel tank cap that was plugged too, and took off the lline going to some little bulb going to the rubber shroud around the needles, and there was pressure in it--put it back on, but it still would only start up then die.
 
Its just a vac line it could be off or have a crack.
If by impulse line, that is ribbed, i did replace 2 days ago the fuel line going to the tank, with new OEM Stihl fuel line, and no change. I'm not sure where else there could be a vacuum leak?
Carb failures are chronic on those things. The carb should be less than $30.
I don't see where a carb could fail, if I put in a new carb kit--all that metal--only 4 years old, and used only a few times a month--what can fail except the plastic carb kits which i replaced?
 
If by impulse line, that is ribbed, i did replace 2 days ago the fuel line going to the tank, with new OEM Stihl fuel line, and no change. I'm not sure where else there could be a vacuum leak?

I don't see where a carb could fail, if I put in a new carb kit--all that metal--only 4 years old, and used only a few times a month--what can fail except the plastic carb kits which i replaced?
But I certainly will see about getting another, at last resort. IF only I knew that was the problem, I'd order another one immediately!
 
The 210 doesn't have a impulse line, it comes from the rubber boot. Check that and make sure it's not cracked anywhere.
okay--will look again tomorrow when it warms up--must work on an outdoor workbench--thanks for explaining about the impulse line--thought it was something electronic or something--when I googled it, it brought up "ribbed fuel lines" with pics of it, so that is why I thought it might be another name for that. Another replied below that I don't have impulse lines on a 210, and I think he is right, for when I look on a PDF I don't see any vacuum line either.
 
Ya something along those lines. I can't remember if there is a gasket in there but if so make sure you check that and make sure it's aligned correctly. I have done that more times than I would like to admit.
Definitely will open up that carb again and check when it warms up tomorrow--outdoor work bench.
 
It could even be crank seals.
That would be one thing I have not even considered--I'm open for ALL suggestions, for I've tried so many things.
I've replaced rings on pistons about 10 years ago on a saw--don't remember much about the seals. They are different from the rings? Where are they? Also, do you know what compression I should be getting with this saw that is acceptable--I don't mean when new--but what would make it still run? I will take a compression test tomorrow and get a reading. thanks for the reply.....
 
That would be one thing I have not even considered--I'm open for ALL suggestions, for I've tried so many things.
I've replaced rings on pistons about 10 years ago on a saw--don't remember much about the seals. They are different from the rings? Where are they? Also, do you know what compression I should be getting with this saw that is acceptable--I don't mean when new--but what would make it still run? I will take a compression test tomorrow and get a reading. thanks for the reply.....
150 and up is ideal post the numbers and we will see. Keep pulling the saw over till you get the highest number.
 
Low compression usually starts to show itself in hard starting. It sounds like your saw starts fine but doesn't run. This is usually a fuel system issue, not compression.

This could be a severe air leak, but you are going to need a vacuum/pressure tester to find out.

In regards to your questions about what can wear out on the carb... There are internal check valves that can leak and wear out that are not part of the rebuild kit. There are also clearances that wear and cause problems... such as the are where the H and L screws seat and the bore of the needle valve.
 
Back
Top