Stihlership 026 Stihl

[griffonks]

This morning I went to a new Stihl dealer for a small in tank fuel filter for an 011AV that I agreed to repair for a friend. After the dealer got done nailing me for $5 on a weedeater filter I asked about part saws.

He told me he had an 026 that needed a piston and maybe a cylinder. So since I had some $ and some CAD I put this greasy, nasty 026 in my trunk. I had pulled the recoil, the piston moved and there was compression but there was a grinding noise.

When I got back to my shop I installed the fuel filter and decided to take a look behind the 026's muffler but I neglected taking any before pics. The piston was pristine so I removed the starter cover and found mud dauber nests, blew them out and turned the flywheel and it was grating on the ignition module.

So I set the ignition gap, pulled the spark plug and saw a clean piston top. Now excited, I drained and refilled the tank, bolted the plug, muffler and starter back on and in two pulls (after I realized that the choke was in the air filter that was left off) the 026 was running. But it wouldn't rev up after I blipped it off high idle.

Without a conscious thought I started removing the carburetor to see if I had a kit for it and when I peered into the manifold to get a look at the other side of the piston I saw that the intake was bent, like kinked- and the air passage was almost totally blocked. The saw was asthmatic!

So I called my girlfriend and told her I wasn't going to come see her at work because it was snowing, it really was, a little, for about 5 or 10 minutes, and that I had a new filthy saw. She muttered something about chainsaw sickness, I think she's getting a handle on what CAD is all about. It took her long enough, you would have thought that when I gave her a Husqvarna 137 and took her with me to clear flood debris she would have begun to understand then. And no, she's not getting a good saw until she stops muttering about saw sickness.

Two hours later the saw, bar and chain was degreased, the mud daubers eradicated, the intake manifold was correctly installed and the saw was running. Perfectly running and I didn't even have to turn a jet. This saw just wanted to run.

All this project saw needs is two chain guards (bumpers), a lower muffler bolt and an impulse hose (it was stiff). I bought it a new fuel line too.

AS taught me so well that I beat the dealer today! Never before have I felt like I got a fair price at a Stihlership. LOL... I'm going back to the dealer Monday Morning to get a Stihl old school, hinged, hard case he offered me for $20 but I'm not telling him that the saw was that easy to repair. I might even tell him it was a parts saw... it might help in future negotiations. $5 for a Poulan fuel filter for Pete's sake.

Anybody know what the electric grinder angle settings are for Stihl .325? What's the difference between an 026 and an 026 pro saw? Should I put 3/8th's pitch sprocket on instead of the .325?

 

[lefturnfreek]

Nice score at the dealer ship, the time they would have plus parts wouldn't have made it worth while to em. Keep it .325 as it's easy to sharpen, quick to spool up and cheaper....

I'd ease up on the "ships" a bit cause if they weren't there they wouldn't had the filter or the saw for ya...they gata stay in business some how to.

 

[w8ye]

I use 60 and 30 on the Stihl .325 RSC and the RMC

The 026 PRO has a compression release and a part time adjustable oiler that only works when the clutch/chain is turning. They mostly had rim sprockets on the clutches.
The regular 026 has no compression release and the oiler is not adjustable, and they usually came from the factory with a spur cog. The oiler runs all the time the crankshaft is turning.

As old as the 026 is some of this could have been changed around by someone? I've seen all combinations.

I have a 026 Pro and while it will not win any GTG cookie races against some of the newer high performance chainsaws, the 026 is just a sweetheart to limb with in the woods. Essentially the non pro runs just as good as the pro.

 

[griffonks]

I think it has a new piston in it. Before I started the saw I looked through the spark plug hole and I could read the stamping on top of the piston.

Someone replaced the piston, left some carbon in the exhaust port and kinked the manifold by installing it turned. Setting the carb post ears on the manifold horizontal instead of at an angle.

As far as dealers go, I have not been able to find one I trust. The one in my hometown overcharges, makes mistakes on orders (wrong parts) and tries to force consumer to live with a no refund policy.

The new one I went to yesterday has had his shop for sale for 2 years and he's lining his pockets. That $5 fuel filter cost him 75 cents, then he put my $5 in his pocket, no receipt. Charge as much as possible and pocket the cash. In trying to sell me the 026 for too much money he told me he buys parts from Bailey's, hones the cylinders and sells the repaired Stihl equipment.

The dealer I usually use is 60 miles away and is at least reasonable in his policies. But they sell Husky parts cheaper on the internet than OTC. So often I buy from them on the web even when I am in the store picking up orders that aren't available cheaper on the web, like a gasket set for an 011AV or a fuel tank vent for a 262xp.

I have never had a dealer go easy on me.....





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[sld961]

How much did you get the 026 for?

 

[Guido Salvage]

How much did you get the 026 for?

Now if he tells you that how is he going to list it in the Tradin Post tonight?

 

[anlrolfe]

I saw that the intake was bent, like kinked- and the air passage was almost totally blocked. The saw was asthmatic!

Two hours later the saw, bar and chain was degreased, the mud daubers eradicated, the intake manifold was correctly installed and the saw was running. Perfectly running and I didn't even have to turn a jet. This saw just wanted to run.

The clouds part and the sun shines down.

On this St Patrick's Day weekend you have the luck of the Irish!

May your face-cut be straight and true
the breeze carry the sawdust gently away
the sun shine on your shoulder
the rain fall softly in your forest
until we GTG again
May you hold your saw firmly in your hand

Amen!

 

[fearofpavement]

Now if he tells you that how is he going to list it in the Tradin Post tonight?

How much he paid really has no bearing on its resale value. The 026 saws usually go for between $175 to $275. If he paid $8 plus $20 in parts, it is still worth market price.

 

[1Alpha1]

Mud Dauber nests = Improperly cared for and stored saw.

Good for you on taking a chance on it. Obviously, you are benefiting from another's neglect.

 

[Guido Salvage]

How much he paid really has no bearing on its resale value. The 026 saws usually go for between $175 to $275. If he paid $8 plus $20 in parts, it is still worth market price.

I agree a saw is worth what it is worth. However, if he does have $28 in it there are many who would think a $100 sale would be a fair return on his investment.

 

[redoakneck]

My stihl dealer sells e-free gas, can sharpen carbide chain, and is very reasonable with prices.

 

[1Alpha1]

My stihl dealer sells e-free gas, can sharpen carbide chain, and is very reasonable with prices.

I've never known a saw dealer to sell gas........of any kind, except for the canned stuff.

You talking gas like out of a gas pump?

 

[sawfun]

That saw will like a 18" bar and .325 either RS or RM non-safety chain and a muff mod and it will make you very happy. Almost forgot, congrats.

 

[griffonks]

I am a little worried about the saw. The new piston that was in it is stamped B on the top of the piston on the intake side. The arrow on the exhaust side is made up of two rows of four dots with dots making the arrow point on top. Can anybody ID this piston?

Four passes with my Oregon 511ax grinder at 30 and 60 degrees and serious raker filing got the .325 chain to cut half decent. So I'm going to take it out tomorrow and run a couple tanks through it. Then I'll test the compression and measure the squish.

I'm afraid it may have a new junk piston in it since the rebuilder left flaky carbon in the exhaust port, kinked the intake, miss set the ignition etc....

I wonder what other mistakes are in the saw.








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[redoakneck]

I've never known a saw dealer to sell gas........of any kind, except for the canned stuff.

You talking gas like out of a gas pump?

Yep, pump gas 90+ e-free. He is an established hardware store out in the country.
http://www.pure-gas.org/station?station_id=12558

Super cool!!!

 

[lefturnfreek]

That is a nice little site there.

Good to hear the dealer is that on the ball. The ones around here are good but not that good.

 

[anlrolfe]

I wonder what other mistakes are in the saw.

I hear ya about inheriting problems but thinking like that can eat you up inside. If you worry about every screw, you'll have this apart all over the bench by the morning. It's not like he was trying to lose money on the repair. Someone was having a bad day and the decision to cut their losses put it into the bone pile sooner than necessary. You've had a chance to give it a once over. If everything is torqued down and the "spidey senses" have settled down, run it.

My 026 will pull an 18" .325" pitch (26 RM3 74) all day long

In all honesty though its not always buried but can get 'er done when called for. The 18" bar simply makes limbing and the small easier on the back.



I guess my 026 is the "middle child"

 

[griffonks]

Well now I'm pretty sure what happened with my mystery 026, the only thing that was clean on this saw other than the new piston was the carburetor, it was perfect. It's a new OEM carburetor. And I believe the piston is a Meteor, I used a small mirror and saw it was stamped AB on the intake and not just B.

The dealer put the 026 together or had someone who was not too familiar with Stihl saws do it.

1) New OEM carb, the dealer doesn't repair carbs, he installs them.
2) He told me he buys Meteor's from Bailey's

I know that on the first Stihl I worked over the intake confused me, I had to install it twice to get it to line up with the carburetor posts. Also if you gap some or all (all I have worked on) the Stihl ignition modules on the non-magnetic side of the flywheel the magnet will kiss the flywheel. Just like this saw was doing.

My opinion of Stihl dealers in my county is in free-fall.

I found a buyer for the saw, with a Husqvarna trade in to boot. Husky's are more my style, I like Stihl but not quite like Husky's. He's a 56 year old dude with a new to him mountain cabin retreat. So, a reliable, high quality 50cc saw is exactly what he needs. I told him to bring me the Husky and I'd sharpen the loop and check it out. I'm waiting for the ebay Greek to send me the chain guides (or bumpers) and for Weedeaterman to send me the fuel line and impulse hose. And the saw is peddled for top dollar. I am going to run it, check the cylinder bolts, check the compression and make sure the intake is ok and not re-kinking.

I'm kidding myself that I can ignore the possibility that carbon and transfer was left in the cylinder along with the exhaust port. I will probably have to take the jug off.

Sorry I don't yet have time to read all the posts, I have a busy day trying to make time to run the abused 026.... I'll read the thread tonight. So far I liked Zogger's post best.... as far as what I paid for the saw I have learned on here it's best not to talk dollars. Everyone has a different opinion of what projects should cost and pro saw's bring different prices depending on how many are around. Running Stihl's bring crazy money here. Like $350 to $400 for an 039/390...

 

[nmurph]

I'll send you a freshly printed $5 and you can send me that 262 I see. Then you won't feel like the dealer beat you so bad!!

Good job, Bill. I'll have the muffler in the mail today.

 

[Chris J.]

I am no fan of Stihl prices and how Stihl does business.
I've been burned on parts prices at an authorized Husqvarna Service Center.
I've paid stupid high prices for parts at small engine shops.

With all that said, brick-and-mortar stores have overhead, and they have to make money to stay in business. It's not unusual for them to have retail prices on consumeables, those are the parts most in demand. You have to look each dealer with the big picture in mind. It's much like grocery stores, one store might have great produce prices, but high meat prices, while another store is the opposite. You see the same thing with automotive, tractor, etc. parts.

A good dealership will find the balance between prices, stock, service, profit, etc.