Super Split - Question about Bearing & Bumper

[Cmccul8146]

Here are a few pics of the mounts.
The rear upper mount you can see the screw at the top

The lower mount

and a quick and dirty out feed table really needs to be larger but it works ok

Your clutch is on backwards!! No way it can slip.

 

[727sunset]

Is there supposed to be any sort of plate on the underside of the ram? I have the small cam roller on the back, and on the underside of the "I" there is one large roller on each side. Looks like there are holes to add another on each side of the ram if you wanted to (maybe thats what comes on the HD model?) But I dont see anything else under there, so Im wondering if that cam roller and the spring behind the ram hold it up off the beam enough?

Here's some pics to compare with. My understanding is the HD model comes with 4 rollers on the underside, J model with 2.

From the top:

From underneath:

And the spring/roller:

 

[Clarkbug]

Thanks again for the great pics Sunset.

It looks like you have a brass plate between the face of the ram and the cart that rides on the beam. I dont think I have one of those on mine, Ill have to check... Not sure if its necessarily needed, so might be time for me to give Paul a call....

 

[buildmyown]

Your clutch is on backwards!! No way it can slip.

Not to hijack the op but care to explain a little? That is the way the original was on so when that one blew up I just put the new one on the same way. Who knows maybe someone somewhere put it back on wrong.

 

[Hddnis]

Your clutch is on backwards!! No way it can slip.

He must run Husky saws. Guys who run Huskies think the clutch goes that way.:msp_biggrin:




Mr. HE

 

[buildmyown]

He must run Husky saws. Guys who run Huskies think the clutch goes that way.:msp_biggrin:




Mr. HE

As one who can take a good ball busting I really would like an explanation as to why. When I put that on I put the pulley and drum on first then the clutch itself. The pulley and drum spins free around the clutch the clutch is tight against the crank shaft. Without a load on the motor or when starting it the pulley and drums spin free once the motor is running the clutch engages.

 

[sunfish]

You need to make a production table for it if you really want to get the full efficiency of the machine. Great score, good info in this thread...

Yes, the table is a back saver. Can easily process a large round without a piece hitting the ground.

 

[sunfish]

He must run Husky saws. Guys who run Huskies think the clutch goes that way.:msp_biggrin:




Mr. HE

The clutch is right...... As it is on Husky saws. :msp_wink:

 

[Hddnis]

As one who can take a good ball busting I really would like an explanation as to why. When I put that on I put the pulley and drum on first then the clutch itself. The pulley and drum spins free around the clutch the clutch is tight against the crank shaft. Without a load on the motor or when starting it the pulley and drums spin free once the motor is running the clutch engages.

I don't know it to be wrong. Just getting a jab in at Husky chainsaw guys since most of those have an outboard clutch. My post should be taken as humor and not as mechanical advice.




Mr. HE

 

[Hddnis]

The clutch is right...... As it is on Husky saws. :msp_wink:

I've seen it both ways on Super Splitters. Do you know if it changes from model to model or year made or??? Maybe I've just seen where otherd put it on wrong? My understanding is that most of those go-cart type clutches are bi-directional rotation. I can see where mounting it clutch pack out would help it run a little cooler.





Mr. HE

 

[buildmyown]

I don't know it to be wrong. Just getting a jab in at Husky chainsaw guys since most of those have an outboard clutch. My post should be taken as humor and not as mechanical advice.




Mr. HE

Ok fair enough i just wasnt sure because this machine has been changed and cobbled together over the years.

 

[sunfish]

I've seen it both ways on Super Splitters. Do you know if it changes from model to model or year made or??? Maybe I've just seen where otherd put it on wrong? My understanding is that most of those go-cart type clutches are bi-directional rotation. I can see where mounting it clutch pack out would help it run a little cooler.





Mr. HE

I believe the clutch can go on either way. Mine is like the one in the picture.

 

[sunfish]

The clutch is right...... As it is on Husky saws. :msp_wink:

Just looked at mine and it's backwards, just like on Stihl saws.

It can go either way, but will move the belt tracking a bit.

 

[Clarkbug]

Well, finally had a chance to test out the new-to-me super split this past weekend. Got through about six cords of hardwood, mostly black birch and maple. I have to say, its a nice machine. It wore two of us out, and my father swore that he was cutting it off the log pile just as quickly as we were splitting it up.

So my thoughts:

• Log wings work pretty darn well. They were hand-fabbed by someone, and they do a really nice job of helping center the bigger rounds.
• The production table would be handy, but I am cheap. I took a piece of plywood that I had handy, cut a big slot in it, and ran it right up to those wings. It went over the trailer hitch, and supported on some milk crates it made a great table. Doesnt look any worse for wear either. Plus since it was a free find for me (along with some pallets) I like the price a lot.
• Seafoam has helped out my engine woes, but it still needs a governor spring rebuild. After my pile is split Ill tear things down some and fix it up.
• My push plate on the end of the ram did not survive the splitting marathon. It was a pretty lousy weld on there, and definitely looked "customized". So we finished splitting with just the ram, but I think that Ill go visit my local welder to get it put back on. Does anyone have any ideas of how to attach it without welding? I was thinking I could try jb weld, but that probably wouldnt take the abuse very well.
• After about 4 cords I heard a strange rattle, and realized that the bolts that hold the little cart onto the end of the rack were coming loose. Not good. Tightened things up, and it seemed OK, but then I could feel the rack grab the pinion a little harder than it had before. No idea how that would have changed things, but it did.
• Im going to add the other two bearings to the cart at the end of the rack. I pulled off one side, and the bearing is CYR-1 1/4" for anyone who is curious. eBay has once again provided some NOS versions, so Ill bolt them up this weekend and see if that makes any difference at all.
• Fuel usage is awesome. Maybe two or three tanks to split all of the wood, and its got that tiny little tank on it. Very happy about that with the price of fuel.
• I was leery of the crotches and nasty pieces, but I only ever had to hit a few pieces multiple times. The only problem piece was one that didnt have nice square ends on it, but once the saw made some flats, I had much better luck.

In general, very happy with the purchase. A thanks to everyone here who helped with photos and part numbers to help me nurse the old gal back into fighting shape!

 

[727sunset]

Job well done getting it back in service and nice to know your efforts paid off.

 

[Clarkbug]

Should have left it alone....

Well, I may have gone and broke it.

Not for good, but enough that I wont split this weekend.

At the end of last weekend, I noticed that the ram would make a strange noise when it was retracting. Looked closer, and it was the lock washers on one of the big bolts on the top. They had loosened up. I tightened up those two on the top, and also the six smaller ones that hold the ram to the little cart that rides on the beam. After that it felt different when it engaged, but I didnt think much of it, since it still worked just fine.

Fast forward to today. I ordered two more bearings for the little cart, since if two are good, four must be better, right? The model I have had the two bearings on the underside, and the springs connected to those bolts at the front of the ram. I moved those bolts and bearings to the back holes, and put two new bearings up in the front. Seems simple, right?

The problem is that now the cart doesnt want to move if I tighten up the six bolts that are along the sides of the ram. I think there are some clearance issues caused by years of wear. If I loosen the bolts up some, it will slide, but I also hear the rack gear hitting the pinion as it retracts. It sort of clunk-clunk-clunk-clunks as it retracts. Almost as if the back of the rack gear isnt elevated high enough to clear the pinion.

So have I gone and broken it? Should I just go with two bearings instead of the four and see if things work well again? Any thoughts from the longtime SS users here?

 

[727sunset]

How close do the new bearings compare with the old...same part #?

 

[buildmyown]

Nope not broken you just found another worn part and a lesson on piviot points. By moving the springs to to the rear holes there is a slight downward pull and by putting the extra bearings on the cart it now cant piviot as much. Also the large spring that is between the ram and cart that is probally also worn out and doesnt have the tension left to hold the ram up when it retracts. My money says replace that spring and all will be good. Why do I say that because I jsut did the same thing not that long ago for the same reason. All I did was go to the local hardware store they have a large board with all the springs on it. I found one that was about the same diameter and thickness as the old spring. The new spring was about 4 inches long so I just cut it down till it was a little shorter then the old spring. I put the old sping inside the new spring it was a little stiff to engage at first but has now worn itself in. Of course you could always call Paul and get the right spring but i like stuff now and im lazy since I could drive to Paul in about 45 mins.

 

[Clarkbug]

Thanks for the input and the tips!

The bearings are the same part number, but a different manufacturer.

I was wondering if it was a spring thing, so thank you for confirming that for me! I probably should just give Paul a call anyway, to get a copy of the owners manual for this thing and see if I should replace anything else while I am at it. No sense in only doing things half way... My brass wear plate is there, but pretty worn down, so I might see how much he wants for one of those....

But your explanation makes perfect sense! I had thought that might be the cause, but wasnt sure if there was another spring somewhere that held the rack up off the pinion....

 

[Clarkbug]

So I took a look at things today, and something finally clicked after I looked at sunset's photos of his ram/rack. It looks like there is a pivot point in the middle, where the cap screw goes through to connect the end of the ram to the little cart.

This way the cart rides square to the beam, and the rack can adjust its angle up and down depending on the position of the cam.

My model J doesnt have that pivot. The rack has two bolts vertically down into the little cart, and thats it. So I wonder if by me adding the two additional bearings, I have removed all opportunity for the entire assembly to pivot, and thats part of my issue.

Has anyone else ever just added the two extra bearings to their splitter without any other modifications? I tried to give Paul a call today, but we played phone tag instead.