the all aussie dribble thread!

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weedkilla said:
While we are talking about pulling trees, I've done a few lately and I think I've got a method down pat. But it's not like I've ever been shown a "correct" way.

Lately I've been getting my pull rope or chain nice and high, cutting a face that gets me a hinge in decent wood and plunge cutting the back cut. Adding a wedge from both sides and then doing the double check with tractor driver and tagging the backstrap.

Getting the pull rope high is obvious, but when a ladder doesn't do the job I've been shooting a throw line up with an APTA - as I throw like forest gump does differential equations.

Face cut depth I've been working with as little as I think I can get away with, mostly these haven't been the most trustworthy trees and all I'm looking for is solid hinge wood.

Plunge cutting the back cut and leaving a holding strap seems good, just gives a minute to double check everything before the noisy bit. Leaves the wedges in a weird spot, but they stop the tree setting back which is all they really need to do.

Anybody else got anything to add? Cos it tends to be something you can't really afford to **** up most of the time.
Click to expand...

Bring your back cut in below the face in tow over/push over scenarios to avoid the butt spitting off the front of the stump. That's about it.
 
MCW said:
Bring your back cut in below the face in tow over/push over scenarios to avoid the butt spitting off the front of the stump. That's about it.
Click to expand...
Ok. This has rattled around the noggin for a couple of hours.
Whatchya talkin about willis?

Are you concerned about the face closing and stump jumping the tree out at the pull vehicle? Isn't that just a case of making sure your face is open enough that it won't close as the tree comes down?
I've done a few back cuts below face when chunking down and I can't risk the saw being ripped out of my hand in the tree, but I only do that with a deep face and I've undermined the c of g.
I'm almost more worried about the butt sliding back on the stump when I'm pulling trees, and have always used a standard inch or so higher back cut to give me that little safety step.
 
weedkilla said:
While we are talking about pulling trees, I've done a few lately and I think I've got a method down pat. But it's not like I've ever been shown a "correct" way.

Lately I've been getting my pull rope or chain nice and high, cutting a face that gets me a hinge in decent wood and plunge cutting the back cut. Adding a wedge from both sides and then doing the double check with tractor driver and tagging the backstrap.

Getting the pull rope high is obvious, but when a ladder doesn't do the job I've been shooting a throw line up with an APTA - as I throw like forest gump does differential equations.

Face cut depth I've been working with as little as I think I can get away with, mostly these haven't been the most trustworthy trees and all I'm looking for is solid hinge wood.

Plunge cutting the back cut and leaving a holding strap seems good, just gives a minute to double check everything before the noisy bit. Leaves the wedges in a weird spot, but they stop the tree setting back which is all they really need to do.

Anybody else got anything to add? Cos it tends to be something you can't really afford to **** up most of the time.
Click to expand...

I have done a lot of pulling trees a couple of tips would be.

As Matt said the back cut under the face cut works a treat pulling or pushing ya cant go wrong.
Try to pull directly oppisit the lean.
We use a 10 mm dineama rope no stretch this way the puller can feel whats going on.
We allso use a heavy duty strap like a winch extensoin strap about 10 mtrs long around the tree end to help protect the dineama rope when tree falls ontop of it,pluss wont pull into the tree and for rigging to the tree..
A 4x4 as the puller with auto gear box going in reverse is best as can use a nice slow steady pull and see whats going on.
Offten use a snatch block to change directsoin if havnt got room for a straight pull.

 
WidowMaker_1 said:
A little update, yeah i'm still kicken ...started back up selling wood from the farm gate.




























And a Nice wood chop Competition/ practice/ work axe i got from my late uncle ,maybe Neil will know a bit about the Keech Keesteel Timberman Axe's......
Click to expand...

Nice Kaine, like seeing different ways to get a job done.
Yes that's a keech casting axe head and looks like a spotted gum handle, they are like you said a, trainer/ work axe. The racing version is called an Aussie Speed but some axemen use a Keesteel and pair them down (thin and polish removing those casting dimples which slow down its entry).
I used Aussie speed axes for years competing but eventually I moved onto more expensive Tauatarie and Don Langdon custom made heads, weighted and handled to suit me.
Below an example of some of my racers ( their kinda unemployed these days all 3 boxes of them) an Aussie Speed and a Don Langdon custom.
DSC00380 (640x506).jpg DSC00374.JPG
 
460cixy said:
Recon its better then solar? Just curious as a mates looking at solar of his shed on his bush block
Click to expand...


if you got good wind its ok but from my experience not better than PV solar but as kit hyrbrid ideal for me as allowed me to expand or add to a few other sets up i have already and the price was very good for 160 pv panel. I still muckin about learning wot does and does not the $ grand I spent so far would'a just been as fun if spent on women smokes and beer it a hobby not a must or yet practical money saver .
 
derwoodii said:
if you got good wind its ok but from my experience not better than PV solar but as kit hyrbrid ideal for me as allowed me to expand or add to a few other sets up i have already and the price was very good for 160 pv panel. I still muckin about learning wot does and does not the $ grand I spent so far would'a just been as fun if spent on women smokes and beer it a hobby not a must or yet practical money saver .
Click to expand...
he's got plenty of wind, you don't worry about that! :laugh:
 

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