the all aussie dribble thread!

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
It'll be noticeable, you can't get it any further forward of the axle centerline so it makes a huge difference (it's called 'polar moment of inertia') but you'll soon forget what it used to be like.

It's no different to those of us that have, say, an ARB or TJM bar and Warn type low mount winch.
All up that weighs 90+kg.
It's just one of the compromises we make, trade one thing for another.

A decent bar I'd just so needed in the bush, and it always amused me when city based 4x4 drivers would say "been driving 20 years in the country and never hit a roo, so a bull bar is just a macho affectation" and I didn't have enough fingers and toes to count the number of roo strikes I'd had in the preceding six months.
But apparently that was impossible as I only lived 4.5 hours from Sydney and there weren't that many roos and wallabies (let alone stray stock) running around, or I was just an idiot that drove too fast.
I'd then have to patiently explain most of the strikes I had was when traveling at less than 50km/h because the roos were that thick, that often they'd run into the side of the Landy or Patrol.

No ******* idea.

I had a place one hour south of Melbourne on the Mornington Peninsula and at Cape Schank dusk and dawn the roos would be as thick as flies.....I stopped driving the little sports car I had at those times and just drove the cruiser at not much over 40kph....it was mad...heaps of bad accidents along there at those times...roo strikes 5 times a week easily.
 
Mums shopping rig, for serious car park navigation on pension day.

Hahaha, too true, Neil.

I deliberately haven't washed the mud and grime from the Defender for it's current urban commute, just to instill a little more, err, respect into my fellow commuters hearts.

Seems to be working. :D
 
One thing I've seen on some certain common 4wd vehicles with heavy arb bullbars is cracks developing in the chassis upfront, overtime the weight of bullbars and **** corrugated dirt roads, take there toll. Good for punching threw roos though.
 
I have a 12,000lb Warn winch plus the steel bull bar plus driving lights...standard torsion bars really weren't up to the task so ordered some 36mm I think rock crawlers from the states....then broke the bracket that strengthens them and cracked both lower control arms around the insertion points....so had to re do the lot to beef it all up....bullet proof now.
 
Then just anchor your tower to the front of your tractor to get some triangulation happening and you should be good to go.
Not sure I'd want to risk that with multiple tonnes of force acting at the end of a 4m lever. Feel it will still want to sit the tractor back on it's ass faster than I can react, especially when using the remote. Better to guy it back to trees/stumps if available or (another thought of late) earth anchors/dead men but am not sure how much the small anchors can hold in suitable ground.

Just not sure at this stage if it's going to be a worthwile exercise. But I do know on tight landings I see mostly, there's never a spar tree where you need it, so the tower will be useful. The top pullies on the winches are on small stub maybe 3" long that poke into the top of the winch body and obviously the downward pressure and their weight hold them there. I was thinking along the same line for positioning the pulley at the top of the tower but this may need some revision if dragging stuff downhill which I encounter a bit of because it ain't worth getting access to the hill tops.

So, if the cable is running up the middle of the tower, I need to come up with a good way of mounting the back two legs of the winch tower to the winch body, and the front two legs land on the ground, with good enough bearing area. Or, I was wondering if I could , in the lower 1m of the tower, taper the legs back to a central point that does all the bearing on the ground. Also, need to try and avoid messing with the ROPS.
 
simple you wont get it .:angry:

they are shifty c$#@% ....... now they say 12 months from when big ears banned it since he done a deal with senator david leyonhjelm

but you see we have an election in between now and then and if big ears gets in he has 4 years for you and us to forget about him making

it a permanent ban by just banning it or reclassifying it as a cat C.

you see if a 5 shot leaver is ok then why wait for 12 months HMMMMM i smell a whopping great pile of bull ****

Yup we are not going to see it and may end up losing a few. But I can't see rabbit Getting back in some how
 
It'll be noticeable, you can't get it any further forward of the axle centerline so it makes a huge difference (it's called 'polar moment of inertia') but you'll soon forget what it used to be like.

It's no different to those of us that have, say, an ARB or TJM bar and Warn type low mount winch.
All up that weighs 90+kg.
It's just one of the compromises we make, trade one thing for another.

A decent bar I'd just so needed in the bush, and it always amused me when city based 4x4 drivers would say "been driving 20 years in the country and never hit a roo, so a bull bar is just a macho affectation" and I didn't have enough fingers and toes to count the number of roo strikes I'd had in the preceding six months.
But apparently that was impossible as I only lived 4.5 hours from Sydney and there weren't that many roos and wallabies (let alone stray stock) running around, or I was just an idiot that drove too fast.
I'd then have to patiently explain most of the strikes I had was when traveling at less than 50km/h because the roos were that thick, that often they'd run into the side of the Landy or Patrol.

No ******* idea.

Mate if you come down here for work make sure you have a decent bar there not big but we have millions of em just mow em down
 
Do you use water or other lubricant to keep the heat from friction down chippy, or is it not needed ?

Sometimes we'll put some water in the hole......Haven't yet though...broken one tooth so far....when the granite comes out of the hole you could easily cook an egg on it in the first hour....

A tooth
1440560120806.jpg Where using the round ones as the tooth shaped ones aren't strong enough and will break easy.

Just had two casings arrive to drop in the holes as we bore...got water and cave in problems at 3-4 mtrs deep....need em to pour concrete in a clean hole then we crane them out
 
Interesting, multi story building, how many floors chippy?

This one is single storey but 8mtrs high....I have done the same size and smaller footings for multi storey before, the problem here is I am building on reclaimed swamp. The ground is as bad as it gets once I get down past the first mtr or so of granite boulders. Have had to pull a few out of the ground and one of them wouldn't fit in a truck....couldn't lift it with what I had on site at the time either.
 
Im surprised water isn't used for cooling, lubrication & dust suppression, granite contains trapped radon gas so I wouldn't be breathing in too much of what's coming out if those holes.
Thansk

Good point.

Don't get much dust as the sides of the hole are typically moist.

We use water when the heat is that high we start getting dust, so the hole has dried out...below the granite floaters we have too much water...it's a swamp....
 

Latest posts

Back
Top