The "Not So Pro" discussion thread...of course Pros are welcome!

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20" is by far the most common size bar used in my area. Rarely I'll see a 24." .050 for the stihl guys, .058 for the husky guys. I run 20" .050 on my husky's and j-red because I used to work with a stihl guy and he bought the chains. My son runs 20" .058 on the 372 and the 385 and I've seen him cut some big stuff in a hurry and 20" fits in the skidder nicely.
 
Yeah I toss a 20" in the skidder, but all it does is bump knots and occasionally knaws on a stump or two. The rest of the time its 32" 36" or a 42" for all my falling needs (mostly 32's). Partly cause putting a 20" bar on a 76cc saw is a great way to over rev, and because if I had to carry a bar for every tree then wouldn't have enough energy to pound any wedges.

I think you folks with the short bars and cutting from both sides are missing some details when compared to production falling, Most of us get paid by how much wood we put on the ground in a day. The more we can dump the more we get paid, even me the lowly gypo... if I can put an extra half or full load on the ground then I can be done and move on to the next, and basically get paid double time. After all I'm the boss I don't get paid unless there is wood going to the mill, the more that goes to the mill the more I make.

Running around and hacking at it from all sides just takes time, get a long bar try it out, then start telling me how much a short bar is better. Sure a long bar takes longer to go the same lateral distance as a short bar, but it only has to do it once, and you don't have to walk around the tree, not to mention much of what is cut out here you just can't walk around the tree. I've cut some that had 8' of stump on one side and only 6" on the other, I've seen others where the bottom side of the stump was 30-40' from the cut, and the cut was done technically at ground level.

Not to mention limbing with a short bar is just murder on your back. Unless your lucky enough to be standing on the ground all day, which I for one am not, hence the shoes with the purdy steel spikes in em.
 
As a sub-firewood hack, I am not going to wade into short vs long bar pro falling. I will say when my bar is significantly shorter than the tree I'm falling I wind up circling it like a dog getting ready for a nap. Especially if it's a leaner I want to bore. I know a pro would have have no problem with this scenerio, but I like to be able to put in a face (I'm gonna miss the far corner short on the first try), flip the saw and put in a (hopefully only slightly sloping) back cut and be done. If I want to bore behind the hinge, I do it without even having to move my feet very much. If 20 is as long as you go, you'd not need to go bigger than a 361/562, as I doubt my 385 would be any faster than Jakes 562 with a 20
 
I guess I'll join the debate. My 2 cents is that it all comes down to personal preference and how you learned and whether or not you've deviated from that. There is a massive push in the northeast for GOL cutting which, as you well know, involves bore cutting. It also teaches limbing from the ground. My boss does this, and uses almost exclusively a 20" bar. As the owner of the business he relies on wood getting to the mill like everyone else and he has made a very comfortable living doing things this way. He encourages me to cut like that as well and taught me the fundamentals of GOL. He does it well and without wasted movement or energy. I however don't like it..not for me. I feel like I use too much energy boring into every tree as well as too much time. I prefer a 28" bar even though I'm typically cutting 24" wood. I wear corks and walk on logs (when safe) to limb so I appreciate the extra reach a longer bar provides me. I'd rather carry a couple extra pounds of bar than bend over or stretch all day limbing. I can also stand a few inches farther away when I find myself in a sketchy situation. So that's my take on it..there's no right or wrong, it all comes down to what you're comfortable working with.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
 
While GOLing if the bar is smaller than the tree, do you bore from both sides and make the cuts meet in the middle?
 
While GOLing if the bar is smaller than the tree, do you bore from both sides and make the cuts meet in the middle?

Yes. Which equals more time and energy. I haven't been doing this very long, but it took me all of about 2 trees on my first day to know how much less efficient it is.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
 
I guess I'll join the debate. My 2 cents is that it all comes down to personal preference and how you learned and whether or not you've deviated from that. There is a massive push in the northeast for GOL cutting which, as you well know, involves bore cutting. It also teaches limbing from the ground. My boss does this, and uses almost exclusively a 20" bar. As the owner of the business he relies on wood getting to the mill like everyone else and he has made a very comfortable living doing things this way. He encourages me to cut like that as well and taught me the fundamentals of GOL. He does it well and without wasted movement or energy. I however don't like it..not for me. I feel like I use too much energy boring into every tree as well as too much time. I prefer a 28" bar even though I'm typically cutting 24" wood. I wear corks and walk on logs (when safe) to limb so I appreciate the extra reach a longer bar provides me. I'd rather carry a couple extra pounds of bar than bend over or stretch all day limbing. I can also stand a few inches farther away when I find myself in a sketchy situation. So that's my take on it..there's no right or wrong, it all comes down to what you're comfortable working with.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Well, it also depends on the cutting method used regionally. Walking the log and limbing with a long bar is OK if the timber will be processed at the landing. Over here in Scandinavia a cutter must prepare the logs ready for milling, no one will touch them before they'll roll on the line. That means absolutely no stubs or missed limbs, otherwise the whole load may get failed.
 
they fail the whole load? That's just mean...

It has happened to me. The timber buyers over here are syndicates - they usually make everything, lumber, pulp, plywood, the works. They've got their own contractors to cut the timber they buy while it's still standing. I'm not saying, in order to favor their own subs, they'd be looking for a reason to fail the indy logger's roadside timber. Instead I can safely say it makes them extra picky.
 
Yeh, if I left my belly stobs all the time...I'd be looking for a job! Been in bull pine for a bit lately...6 inch based limbs average...gotta get on the ground to cut the belly limbs clean.
 
What the heck does "gypo" mean anyway? I thought it was a West Coast thing and now I'm seeing people from N East using it...surely by now I have seen one? LMAO!
 
I'm just a poor old gypo logger, tryin' to make ends meet.... Dunno if it was because of this song, or if that's just a common saying, cuz I heard "I'm just a poor old gypo logger!" more than a few times from gypo loggers.



My favorite part,

It's right here you see, on page 23:D
 
There are two meanings behind gypo, One being an independent outfit, usually small and underfunded, the other being a fly by night crook that likes to do things as shady as possible, I prefer the independent definition.

Independent or fully funded, don't matter here. I see hundreds of cord of firewood left to rot by the hack "loggers" here, take the log money and run. When I say firewood, I'm talking hardwood not softwood and hardwood brings $100 a cord in log length here now. Gypo has no meaning here in the northeast, either you do the whole job or you're a.....
 

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