I bet they cut ok at least in soft stuff. Most important part is the angle up at the top of the cutter.
This Is Why I Sharpen My Own Chains!
- Thread starter SteveSr
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I have no idea where that comes from, I did not re set any settings on this site, that dark ink just starts up on its own and actually does not show up much darker on my screen, likely due to the light background choice I made a few months back, let me see if I can change it.Can’t tell if you’re yelling or if you accidentally got the black paint all over your fingers again
Yelling or shouting is all capital letters, right. I have not reset anything, is the type still dark?Can’t tell if you’re yelling or if you accidentally got the black paint all over your fingers again
Just giving you some crap. I figured you bumped the ‘Bold’ icon ahead of time
It’s normal now
The angled J cuts fine. Like David mentioned, it’s mainly the top .050” that does the work. But there isn’t much meat left holding that tooth on once the chain is down to 1/3 life or so
Thanks, Kevin, I did not change a thing on this end.
Sometimes the important folks just need to be heard, I reckon
I would gladly run that chain on my 066 flatop when cutting pine or fir, but not when cutting hardwoods. If you think that chain is scary there is much more modified ones being run even on woods production work and certainly on race chains.
I bet they would cut like shidt. The top plate and side plate angles look pretty dull and that's that happens when you run the wheel too deep. Instead of cutting on the curved face of the wheel tip you end up grinding the most important part of the tooth on the flat of the wheel.
From the pics I can not see the top plate angle or if the underside of the top plate is sharp but the side on pics showing the tooth profile that others were commenting on does look similar to some chains I run, of course they are actually sharp.
It's pretty much Hexa with more angle. @SteveSr put them in wood! or send them to me. ;-D
Stihl uses the same wheel for .325 and 3/8. Actually on the label of the wheel. Dimensions are metric.
So, I don't suppose it's all that critical.
Doesn't look like HEXA to me.
The underside of the top plate looks pretty dull to me...
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
As others have noted this was done with a grinder that someone didn't know how to use.Not the greatest job, too much hook, and looks pretty inconsistent as ti where he held his file, but if they cut.wonder if he was even using the right sized file, some of the cutters look like it was too small a file the way he's dug into near the gullet area.
BONUS QUESTION - Do you think that a local shop with a Franzen sharpening machine could fix it?
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
The top angle is correct and the tooth is sharp. However, we need these to be able to bore cut and this chain is way too aggressive for that.
What makes you think that bore cutting will be more problematic with that chain? To my eye it doesn't look sharp at all. In fact to my eyes it looks like a complete hack job.
Yes, it can be fixed.
One or two more sharpenings and those chains will look normal
