Hedgerow
HACK
Many people just use one or the other for files also..
Timberline Chainsaw Sharpeners???
- Thread starter goosedowner
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SteveSS
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sweet! Thanks, Matt.
I makes a difference IMO. 5.2 is a better fit (13/64) for Stihl, which is all I use. Again, just my .02
Cyberspaceking
ArboristSite Lurker
Just got one this week, been messing around with it all day.
It's very well made and does a really good job. I was previously sharpening by hand and this tool helped me to realize what a lousy job I had been doing.
It's very well made and does a really good job. I was previously sharpening by hand and this tool helped me to realize what a lousy job I had been doing.
I used mine for the first time few days ... took abit to set it up ... i ended up doing 2 runs on each side ... yet to test the saw and see if its as sharp as i hope !!
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
Edge & Engine
ArboristSite.com Sponsor
I have a used Timberline for sale, used very little. Comes with new accessory 25* & 30* angle guides, a 7/32" cutter and a 13/64" cutter. The 7/32" cutter is damaged because the original owner (not me) tried to take off too much in one pass and chipped the carbide, it looks like post #29 on this thread except not quite as bad. This cutter may or may not work, plan on replacing it. Or just use the brand new 13/64" cutter on your 3/8" chain. Comes with original carry case etc. $75 takes it and I'll even ship it for no extra charge. PM me if interested.
SteveSS
Addicted to ArboristSite
@Edge & Engine is a solid cat to do business with. I bought a saw from him a couple months ago and it was better than described.
If you put a little cutting oil on the carbide cutters it works much better. I have some "tap magic" that I use which works good. Put a drop on every 4 teeth or so.
Also, I have the optional 35 degree bushings, but have modified them so the 5 degree angle is applied to the top, so I get 30 degree side angle and 5 degree top angle.
You just need to drill a new "dimple" locations for the set screw that holds the bushing in.
Also, I have the optional 35 degree bushings, but have modified them so the 5 degree angle is applied to the top, so I get 30 degree side angle and 5 degree top angle.
You just need to drill a new "dimple" locations for the set screw that holds the bushing in.
It got a bit messy of sorts by the time i had finished with the filings and oil sticking together ... just cleaned it up with compressed air ... today im testing the test the saw to see if i did any good !!!
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
It won't last 10 minutes in the chainsaw f/s section...I bought one for $125 and was very happy. I'd of wet muhself for $75
Edge & Engine
ArboristSite.com Sponsor
Thanks to everyone that responded, but yes the Timberline is sold.
Kyle
Kyle
i think i've had mine for five years. i need new cutters i go to
https://www.timberlinesharpener.com/shop
they'r in my po box a few days later. timberline is a great outfit to do business with. nothing will get your chain sharper.
Link to related threads:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/new-chain-sharpener.180488/
Philbert
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/new-chain-sharpener.180488/
Philbert
So Philbert & Heyduke, I currently only have files and basic file guides for my firewood saws. I'm happy with my results but from time to time i should really get all the angles correctly reset.
In your expert humble opinions would I be better of investing in a grinder or a timberline for the 'resetting' task. Also for fixing damaged chains which have hit something in the wood.
Does the timberline fill the role of a file or a grinder?
Ta
Jeff
Edit,
I started reading your posted link Philbert and found my answer on page 38...... I'll start saving for a grinder!
In your expert humble opinions would I be better of investing in a grinder or a timberline for the 'resetting' task. Also for fixing damaged chains which have hit something in the wood.
Does the timberline fill the role of a file or a grinder?
Ta
Jeff
Edit,
I started reading your posted link Philbert and found my answer on page 38...... I'll start saving for a grinder!
jeff,
A decent grinder will cost you 3x as much as the timberline. much of the variability options of the grinder can be matched with the TL. and let me know when you can carry the grinder to the jobsite/woods. each has their own benefits, I have both and use both depending on where and what I have to do that day.
i hate either/or questions. the obvious answer is both. neither a file or timberline are the best choice for damage repair. that's where a grinder shines. if you don't want to spend money on a grinder, take the chain to a shop. tractor supply is selling their oregon clone for $139. i like the oregon/tecomec grinder better but the clone works fine too. philbert has some great thoughts on sharpening but i disagree with him on one point. the timberline is more than a tool for maintaining a chain. it is a tool that will make your chain sharper than it was out of the box. i know their are a few hombres on this site who claim that can do the same with a file but you'll never see vids or fotos to support their claims. i like to sharpen with a timberline after unloading the truck and opening a beer. i often use the timberline on a new chain. so0metimes i will hit the cutters with a grinder first to lower the gullets for better chip removal.
regarding filing, in general. the first time you use a timberline on an old chain you will discover how poor your skills as a filer really are.
regarding angelo c's comments above, i don't usually carry any sharpening equipment on the job. well maybe there's a file and guide somewhere in my tool bag. i always take a back up saw and one or two extra chains. i don't like wrenching on saws in the field. it looks bad.
A lot depends on your use and preferences.
I have a grinder. I like grinders. But I justified the $300 investment because: 1) I was sharpening a lot of chains for some storm clean up up groups that I volunteer with, which are really hard on chains; and 2) I wanted one (full disclosure).
As the fella that disagrees with me (post above) mentions, you can buy a less expensive, 'clone' grinder for as little as $100, or even a mini-grinder for as little as $30 (http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/hf-chain-grinder-thread.268303/). These can meet your needs for occasional sharpening use, reseting cutter angles, or 'evening out' chains. Some guys will do this to shape the cutters, then follow up with a file to get the edge they prefer.
Before I owned a grinder I purchased the 'pro' model Oregon clamp on file guide (https://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/products/accessories/BarMountFileGuide.htm). Similar to the Granberg file guides, this can be a tad confusing to set up at first, but once learned, provides extremely consistent, sharp, uniform cutters. Some people use these as their only filing / sharpening method, and some carry these in the field. If you don't mind spending a few minutes filing, this could be a good option for you to consider.
More info in this thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/
Philbert
I grind sharpen 95% of the time with my Oregon 511a. But, when I really want to do a fabulous job and have the time to do it, I pull out the Timberline. It's a perfect sharpening tool for a perfectionist.
However, I would have to see data showing that any saw's cutting speed actually improves significantly compared to a grind-sharpened or file-sharpened chain. To design an experiment that would prove that is likely impossible. That's primarily because the skills of the operator are deeply involved in all cases.
However, I would have to see data showing that any saw's cutting speed actually improves significantly compared to a grind-sharpened or file-sharpened chain. To design an experiment that would prove that is likely impossible. That's primarily because the skills of the operator are deeply involved in all cases.
I think that it would be possible under lab conditions, but we don't work in those conditions.
As stated before, 'sharper' and 'faster' is not always 'better'; sometimes you want a longer lasting cutting edge, or different angles for different conditions. This is one of the inherent limitations of the Timberline - you have a choice of a few, fixed angles (with the accessory guides), which is fine for most basic cutting. But if you are really interested in optimizing performance, under different cutting conditions, different wood, etc., the ability to modify angles with a hand file, the Granberg type filing jigs, or a full featured grinder becomes an advantage.
Philbert
