TIME for a new saw? 357xp V 346xp

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I'm with ya now, thanks, I Do have some trees that need taken out but I figured I would take out all the dead ones first , I did not realize how fast you run out of dead trees when wood sales take off. The down side of my property is that before I bought it It was selectively cut for all oak trees bigger than 32 inches at the base. (this was done about 12 years ago) I still have a lot of oaks in the 20 to 30 inch range that I was hoping to let get a little thicker before I turn my pro logger friend loose on them. Therefore you can understand that I dont want to cut too many live trees because they will bring a pretty good profit in a few years. Does it sound like I'm on the right track or should I re-think things?
 
Ray Bennett said:
I'm with ya now, thanks, I Do have some trees that need taken out but I figured I would take out all the dead ones first , I did not realize how fast you run out of dead trees when wood sales take off. The down side of my property is that before I bought it It was selectively cut for all oak trees bigger than 32 inches at the base. (this was done about 12 years ago) I still have a lot of oaks in the 20 to 30 inch range that I was hoping to let get a little thicker before I turn my pro logger friend loose on them. Therefore you can understand that I dont want to cut too many live trees because they will bring a pretty good profit in a few years. Does it sound like I'm on the right track or should I re-think things?
Click to expand...

Your on right track now, but do realize that to archieve maximum growth, trees need to be in fairly open space, overhere the general rule is that if tops of 2 trees scratch each other then the other one(s) need to go. Too many trees in too small space just makes em grow lenght wise instead of being properly spaced it will grow lenght AND thickness...
 
Ray Bennett said:
I'm with ya now, thanks, I Do have some trees that need taken out but I figured I would take out all the dead ones first , I did not realize how fast you run out of dead trees when wood sales take off. The down side of my property is that before I bought it It was selectively cut for all oak trees bigger than 32 inches at the base. (this was done about 12 years ago) I still have a lot of oaks in the 20 to 30 inch range that I was hoping to let get a little thicker before I turn my pro logger friend loose on them. Therefore you can understand that I dont want to cut too many live trees because they will bring a pretty good profit in a few years. Does it sound like I'm on the right track or should I re-think things?
Click to expand...

You sell deadwood? People buy it? That would never fly around here.
 
346 or 357?? Get both. They will both pay for themselves in no time if your selling what you cut. Everyone likes the 361 too, but I wonder about the vibration between the 361 and the 357. Is there any difference?

Watch out for the CAT muffler. Picked up a new 346, it had no CAT muffler. Last year picked up the 359, it had a CAT muffler, had to order a Non-CAT muffler. Understand the 357 may not have the CAT muffler yet. I like the 346 better than the 359 after a long day. I am not as tired. 359 has more power but I like the high rpm's of the 346.
 
blis said:
Prolly a typo... but what makes me wonder, is that 254xp makes 4hp, while 262xp makes 4.6hp, so, 8cc for 0.6hp sounds pretty lame...
Click to expand...

The 362xp is 4.6hp, the 262xp was 4.8hp - and lighter.

A .6 hp difference is quite noticable, everything else beeing the same, and the wood large enough.....
 
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SOOOOOOOOOO
what the Troll is saying is to keep the saw I have??
I geuss the big Qust. is has the anti vib stuff gotten better??
The 262 dosn't seem to bother my hands or anything, no numbness.
 
Jaxx said:
346 or 357?? Get both. They will both pay for themselves in no time if your selling what you cut. Everyone likes the 361 too, but I wonder about the vibration between the 361 and the 357. Is there any difference?

Watch out for the CAT muffler. Picked up a new 346, it had no CAT muffler. Last year picked up the 359, it had a CAT muffler, had to order a Non-CAT muffler. Understand the 357 may not have the CAT muffler yet. I like the 346 better than the 359 after a long day. I am not as tired. 359 has more power but I like the high rpm's of the 346.
Click to expand...

yup 357 and 346 don't have it yet as far as i know but the 359 does. Also, i find it strange that according to my dealer book, I can get a standard 353 with no cat, but the 353G heated has the cat. Troll or anyone else have any insight on this?
 
Cam501 said:
yup 357 and 346 don't have it yet as far as i know but the 359 does. Also, i find it strange that according to my dealer book, I can get a standard 353 with no cat, but the 353G heated has the cat. Troll or anyone else have any insight on this?
Click to expand...

that sure sounds strange.... must be typo on either one of em since i see no reason why other one would come with cat and other one without...
 
blis said:
that sure sounds strange.... must be typo on either one of em since i see no reason why other one would come with cat and other one without...
Click to expand...

don't think it's a typo ,,,, we have had that kind of deals here in Sweden too ,,,
 
Cam501 said:
yup 357 and 346 don't have it yet as far as i know but the 359 does. Also, i find it strange that according to my dealer book, I can get a standard 353 with no cat, but the 353G heated has the cat. Troll or anyone else have any insight on this?
Click to expand...

All the 59 cc and smaller Husky/Jred pro saws has been made with and without the cat muffler for years - it is just a question of what the distributer want to sell, and EPA point quotations.

Over here, you even has to pay a premium for the cat mufflers, whitch no-one does ime......

My former Husky dealer once told me that he had sold one saw with a cat, and he changed the muffler out for a non-cat one, on warrency after a while, as the saw ran far too hot.....
 
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Ray Bennett said:
I'm with ya now, thanks, I Do have some trees that need taken out but I figured I would take out all the dead ones first , I did not realize how fast you run out of dead trees when wood sales take off. The down side of my property is that before I bought it It was selectively cut for all oak trees bigger than 32 inches at the base. (this was done about 12 years ago) I still have a lot of oaks in the 20 to 30 inch range that I was hoping to let get a little thicker before I turn my pro logger friend loose on them. Therefore you can understand that I dont want to cut too many live trees because they will bring a pretty good profit in a few years. Does it sound like I'm on the right track or should I re-think things?
Click to expand...
I've been thinking about this and wanted to hash it over a little more. I'm not a forester by any means, and not a logger either, so anything I say is just from what I've gathered from these forums and my limited experience with my property. I'm having a hard time picturing a 100 acre woodlot, with the oaks you describe without a lot of younger, smaller stuff growing up underneath them. Stuff that would need thinning and managing. If indeed it is the case, maybe you should consider having some of it logged off to start the regeneration process. I'm not suggesting a course of action, but suggesting that maybe you should talk to someone who does know what they are talking about. It may also be a good idea to have a small logoff to see what kind of condition the bigger oaks are in.
 

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