To Big To Cut?

[DangerTree]

Dude correct me if I'm wrong I read the tape saying 2 foot butt what the f..k is the problem a sharp ms200 could cut that up. If you can't man up the rounds wedge em' and sledge em' (child's play).

 

[turnkey4099]

A guy I know stopped in this morning and was wondering if I would be interested in some oak firewood. Thought this was my lucky day so I headed out this afternoon to do some cutting. Got a little surprise when I got there. He had topped a downed oak tree and left the bottom 20 feet of it. This thing is huge and all I could think was how big of a stack of wood that I would end up with IF I could cut and split it. Just this spring I purchased my ODW so I don't have an assortment of saws, actually only one A Husky 455 Rancher with a 20 inch bar. It has cut everything that I have thrown at it but I am afraid that it has met its match. I took a couple of pictures but I don't think that they are going to be a lot of help. You can see my tape in the picture but you can't read it so I will tell you what it measures. From the ground to the top it is just short of seven Feet, and at the thickest point farther back it is about 4 foot across. The Aspen tree guy did cut it in half so there are 2 ten foot sections. Is this thing just to big to mess with? Am I a lame brain to even consider this? Would anyone on this board even give this a second glance if all you had to throw at it is my 20 inch bar? If by chance there is someone as dumb as me that would try this how would you go about getting it cut up. I have a 35 ton Speeco splitter so splitting is not a problem if it could be cut down to manageable pieces. Would welcome any thought that anyone might have either for trying to saw it or you must have been dropped on your head when you were born.149.jpg149.jpg

You are good to go with that 20" bar down to where the stems join. After that it will get to be 'work'. Since there will be a lot of knots, crotches, it is almost all 'noodle' time. Procedure is to cut rounds to whatever length youwant (leaves an uncut 'core') then 'noodle' chunks free (leaves a stub), repeat for another section then come back and cut the 'stub' to length.

BTDT, lots of sweat and work but fun. Don't plan on going out and cuttign it up before breakfast!!

Might be worth buying a 24" bar and a couple skip tooth chains.

Harry K

 

[HILLBILLYREDNEC]

This a situation were a 24" bar and full skip and a few files and a pile o wedges comes into play.

 

[AIM]

Whats the diam of the log before you get to the crotch part?
Cut the straight portion of the log and leave the crotch.

A couple years back I was cutting at the town dump where they pile all the wood that the city workers cut down. There was this monster crotch section laying there that nobody had messed with. I thought I'd start wacking on it. After about an hour of noodling and and blocking I left it alone. Those big crotches are a pain unless you can get at least half way through with each cut.

 

[Whitespider]

I've cut a lot of big stuff with and 026 and a 20-inch bar.
Start with a sharp chain, keep it sharp, don't lean on the saw to much, and try not to let it run out of fuel in the cut. If you get in a hurry you'll work yourself to death and/or damage the saw. Really it goes pretty smooth if you don't over work yourself or the saw. You'll need at least three plastic bucking wedges, five would be better, a couple good splitting wedges, and a 5 or 6 foot pry bar/lever. Pay close attention to keeping you cuts straight... I make a shallow cut across the top and then full bar 2/3's down one side, switch sides and finish the depth of the top cut (if needed) and 2/3's down that side. Drive in the wedges and finish the side cuts, stopping to drive wedges deeper/tighter as needed. If the cuts don't line up perfectly the bar/lever is used to separate the round from the tree and roll it out of the way. I like to noodle each round into manageable pieces before cutting the next round, sometimes using the splitting wedge to finish the noodle cut. Keep a solid hold of the saw, with the bar nose continuously buried like that kick-back is more than a very real possibility... take breaks as needed... a tired worker is gonna' get hurt. A second pair of hands can be a huge help handling those big rounds.

 

[ctrees4$]

This is true... But can you think of a better reason to buy a 24 or 28" bar??? Remember, 2 schools of thought here... Normal, and CAD sufferers... Which one do you subscribe to... Bwahahahaha!!!

I have more saws than I care to count,some are for parts but run anything from a stihl 192t up to a husky 3120. My op was just saying bring the right tool to do the job and if you only have a medium size saw you cut medium and small trees. WORK SMARTER NOT HARDER!! oke:

 

[newmexico]

It can be done with a 20" bar.. It will take some 'noodling' and some boring cuts into the butt ends. You can take a ring off the outside of the log using these cuts, then repeat with the portion of the center of the log that is left. You won't be able to get as long of chunks off the remaining center due to wood and chainsaw not being able to occupy the same space at the same time.

tried drawering-- but I don't have much artistic skill-- I approach it something like in the picture.

Looks like fun, and the advantage to doing it with the 20 inch bar is that you won't have to deal with 600 pound cookies like you would if you went and got a five foot bar and just sliced chunks off that monster.

Good score and nice firewood.

 

[saxman]

I would suggest going to an equipment rental store or saw dealership and rent a MS660 or 395 Husky or some big saw with a 36" bar and make quick work of this thing or at least get it ready for your saw. I too would like to see a bigger picture of your avatar!

 

[nmurph]

You need-

a muffler mod
a good file and knowledge of how to use it
a pocket full of wedges and a heavy ax or sledgehammer
a good, long day and pletny of patience

Make sure you keep the chain sharp and tune the saw a little richer than normal. You are taking on a lot for that saw, but it can be done with some common sense and planning.

 

[SPDRMNKY]

looks like fun! 30 minutes in it'll look like work, but hey...live in the moment

look at it as a challenge, and training...lots of saw time, lots of patience, lots of reward if you figure it out!

you'll be a better saw monkey at the end of it

good luck!

 

[smokinj]

Oak is a pain in the butt even with a great saw!

 

[KMB]

Some good advice and tips so far. As has been mentioned already...a SHARP chain is a must to get it done properly. It might seem a pain to stop and touch-up the chain...but it is well worth it. It'll also give your saw and yourself a break. SHARP chain!

Kevin

 

[komatsuvarna]

Id probably tackle it if I didn't have anything else to do, or needed the wood, but other than that it looks pretty good laying there .

The ends look dried out, but Id say its still green just a little ways from the end.

 

[Hedgerow]

I have more saws than I care to count,some are for parts but run anything from a stihl 192t up to a husky 3120. My op was just saying bring the right tool to do the job and if you only have a medium size saw you cut medium and small trees. WORK SMARTER NOT HARDER!! oke:

Ouch!!! Stop poking me in the eye!!!:msp_tongue: You sound like my uncle... He used to tell me the same thing... "Work smarter, not harder"... But I was always the one who ran the maul... Him smart... Me work hard...
:amazed:

 

[atvguns]

Looks to me like you need to have a GTG there is guys on here that will drive 8 hrs with big saws in hand just to cut on something like that just set the date a buy some snacks they will come. OH ya don't tell them they are cutting fire wood just say it is big cookies

 

[Wolfcsm]

Looks to me like you need to have a GTG there is guys on here that will drive 8 hrs with big saws in hand just to cut on something like that just set the date a buy some snacks they will come. OH ya don't tell them they are cutting fire wood just say it is big cookies

This is a plan!

There might be another member that has a big saw that could help - and probably would want the challange of really big wood.

Hal

 

[smokinj]

looks to be around 24 inchs. Nice 60cc saw would do fine 70-80cc even better but thats no monster I would drive for! View attachment 197258

 

[nmurph]

The three limbs are 24", but the trunk is much bigger.

 

[mayhem100]

Dude correct me if I'm wrong I read the tape saying 2 foot butt what the f..k is the problem a sharp ms200 could cut that up. If you can't man up the rounds wedge em' and sledge em' (child's play).

The closeup photo with the 2 foot tape measure readingis the topmost (and smallest) butt off the 3 way crotch. Look at that hulk of a trunk in the background. Easy 4 foot diameter trunk, maybe more.

I'd say you can do it, but in all honesty it might do your saw in. Rent a big saw from a local place with a 30" or bigger bar and take out the optional damage insurance. Get a buddy to help you so you're not alone...too much risk in wood this size to do it alone in my opinion...have the buddy watch the cuts so they don't pinch on you and he can also keep pounding in wedges to prevent just that.

You can do it. It'll take time and alot of work, but thats probably a good 2+ cords there once its cut split and stacked...maybe more...the trunk alone looks like an easy 4x4x8 and thats solid.

Hope its not rotten or hollow.

 

[Wolfcsm]

The closeup photo with the 2 foot tape measure readingis the topmost (and smallest) butt off the 3 way crotch. Look at that hulk of a trunk in the background. Easy 4 foot diameter trunk, maybe more.

I'd say you can do it, but in all honesty it might do your saw in. Rent a big saw from a local place with a 30" or bigger bar and take out the optional damage insurance. Get a buddy to help you so you're not alone...too much risk in wood this size to do it alone in my opinion...have the buddy watch the cuts so they don't pinch on you and he can also keep pounding in wedges to prevent just that.

You can do it. It'll take time and alot of work, but thats probably a good 2+ cords there once its cut split and stacked...maybe more...the trunk alone looks like an easy 4x4x8 and thats solid.

Hope its not rotten or hollow.

Not sure I would agree. With a MS310 and a 18 inch bar, I am able to cut 35-36 inch wood - slow yes, but I can cut it. As has been stated, shark chain is a key. But so is knowing your saw and paying attention to the feel and sound. Probably not going to cut through a 35 inch section like you would a 10 inch log. Takes patience. I also pay attention to the air filter - clean or change often.

I do agree that you should always have two people. Especially when working really big wood. I always have a second saw for the pinches. My little 345 works great and has gotten me out of a pinck several times. Sometimes a bottle jack and a piece of 2X6 helps a lot in preventing pinches.

I find it actually fun to see just how much one of my saws will work through. Before I bought a 066 or 880, I had the MS310 and Husky 345. Cut a LOT of big wood with them. I really enjoy the big saws in big wood, but the smaller saws did fine.

Hal