Top Handle climbing saw suggestions

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
The problem with the old husky 335 is, they wouldn't stay in tune. They were great when running and when you could keep them running and not losing end caps. I would call them a failure overall.
The 334/338xpt were husky's best arborist saws. The had the same, nice ergonomics of the 335 but they got it right. They remained in tune and had good power for their size. At least, the 338 did or a 334 with the 338's top end, then it was the same saw.

The problem with the 540T is, they copied the little brick style of the stihl top handle and now those of us who liked the older husky ergonomics no longer have the option. It's just not offered. It runs nice and is reliable, feels like even more power than the older model but no more power than a 338t was required for me, because as soon as I'm into anything 8"+ I'm calling up a 50cc saw to get the job done. Being a big guy, I've no problem with using a 50cc up a tree. Once I'm into the 50cc, that means the top is out and I'm going down. It doesn't take me long from there anyway, especially with the 50cc's and then 70cc when needed, if it's tight and I still need to lower some trunk.

I got looking and the problem I see are two fold. The handle is moved right up in the center. This is preferred no doubt for those with lower forearm strength and those who like to one hand their cuts. I loath one handing and try to avoid it at all costs, even after 20 plus years of climbing. Sometimes you do what you have to do, as time is money but I hate it every time I do it anyway. I know it's stupid.

The second issue is the placement of where the handle comes out, far too close to your other hand, at least if you have big hands. So you can't place your left hand where you could before (the same place you place your left hand on a normal ground saw) there's just no room. So you're forced to place your left hand on the side while cutting and it makes the saw feel like your using a 'little persons' saw you can't properly hold onto like you could the old 338 style. To compound the issue, the bar comes forward, towards you, rather than away from you, which removes even more room and forces you to twist your wrist awkwardly. Clearly it was not deigned for those holding a saw properly and safely with two hands. It just wasn't. Grab one and simulate cutting it with next time you see it on a self. You'll see. They built it to aid one hand cutters. No sugar coating it. It's what they did.

Basically, there's no longer a natural way to hold a 540T safely with two hands. All you can do, or all I can do, is use my left hand sideways on the handle, kinda as if I'm holding a kids toy while cutting. I just don't like it. They removed the joy of cutting with their top handle and catered it to work for those who use top handle unsafe is what they did; one handers.

I've had it for a few years now and still don't like cutting with it. I think what I might do is, take it to a machine shop and see if they can cut and re-weld a handle on for me, up closer to the chain brake, so I can fit a paw on it where it belongs to saftey cut with a saw, cut out and re-modify the chain brake left most corner to accommodate the needed room and have the bar come down and slightly forward, not backwards like the old 338xpt style.
There's nothing I can do with the far forward handle and throttle, but I think with at least moving the bar up and down away from me, along the side of the body will make using the saw a million times more enjoyable. If I have to use a funnel to fill the bar oil, so be it. 1 minute full time of oil will be a small price to pay for some comfort.

Husky should have kept the old style with the updated engine, so we had a choice of saftey. Not just forced us all to use a saw clearly designed for one handing. It's not just Husky either. (the piss poor design started with Stihl. I hated them back then and I hate them now.) Look at all the new designed arborist saws. All unsafely designed. They're all designed to entice one hand use. It sucks. There's no excuse for it either and they all should be ashamed for it also.

Yes, I know I'm in a very, tiny minority with arborist saw ergonomics. Hence modern arborist saw design lol.

/end rant. :D



....
You know after ranting, this makes me wonder if I'm doing it all wrong now. Maybe I shouldn't have even bothered with the new 540T at all and instead should think about just going with a 35-40cc ground saw for my arborist saw, if they're going to stop offering options for us bigger guys and guys who prefer saftey first. I'd like to ensure when I retire, I do so with two arms and a couple legs lol. I'm probably behind like minded people and this is what others did a for a couple years now, I dunno. I'll see what a machine shop has to say first about modifying the handle for me.
You would probably like a small rear handle saw, from reading your post. Echo just came out with a rear handle version of their cs-2511t. Very small and light, but mostly plastic. Do not apologize for not liking to use one hand. Do you not like for safety reasons? or discomfort?

I have climbed with a Ryobi 40v rear handle battery saw, when noise was an issue. It is small, 14" bar. I didn't have any issues with it on my harness, and little issue cutting with it.
 
I'm in the market for Top Handle saw for limbs DRT climbing. Looking at the CS1125T or MS194 but I really don't know much about Top Handle saws so they maybe better saws. I'm open to suggestions. Some saws around here are sometime hard to get. One dealer hasn't seen a Top Handle for over a year. But I do have some dealers within a reasonable distance that have a MS 194t another with CS1125t. I'm hoping I can find a good deal on a saw at Oregon logging conference on Feb 24-26 if there is such a thing as a good deal these days. Dealer price on CS1125t are $439 and same for MS194t.
Is the MS194 that much better considering the added 2lbs ? 6" limbs/branches about the biggest cut to meet my needs. I understand the CS needs a better chain and bar upgrade then what sold stock. The dealer I have in my area sells the CS as a package, not the power head separate so I don't have other bar options without buying package bar and chain. That said the CS sounds like more expensive option. This is not for commercial use, private limited use.
If you are just starting out as a climber I would suggest you begin with the CS-2511T.
All you need to do is remove the muffler and drill a extra exhaust port - easy to do.
I have cut limbs up to 12" diameter with the CS-2511T muffler modded.

IMHO Gas Top Handle Saws ranked by power to weight:
#1 MS200T
#2 MS201T
#3 T540XP II
#4 CS-2511T
#5 CS-355T
#6 MS194T
#7 CS-271T
#8 CS-303T

This is my IMHO based on power to weight to balance in hand IN THE TREE = one hand use.

Top 3 are Power saws and not recommended for beginner climbers IN THE TREE.

With that said: I began my climbing with a 1980s Craftsman Topper and within one month jumped up to a Stihl 020AVS which was a powerhouse tank compared to todays lightweight saws.

As soon as the 020T came out I dumped the 020AVS
 
I'm in the market for Top Handle saw for limbs DRT climbing. Looking at the CS1125T or MS194 but I really don't know much about Top Handle saws so they maybe better saws. I'm open to suggestions. Some saws around here are sometime hard to get. One dealer hasn't seen a Top Handle for over a year. But I do have some dealers within a reasonable distance that have a MS 194t another with CS1125t. I'm hoping I can find a good deal on a saw at Oregon logging conference on Feb 24-26 if there is such a thing as a good deal these days. Dealer price on CS1125t are $439 and same for MS194t.
Is the MS194 that much better considering the added 2lbs ? 6" limbs/branches about the biggest cut to meet my needs. I understand the CS needs a better chain and bar upgrade then what sold stock. The dealer I have in my area sells the CS as a package, not the power head separate so I don't have other bar options without buying package bar and chain. That said the CS sounds like more expensive option. This is not for commercial use, private limited use.
I use the cs2511t with a panther 1/4 pitch bar and chain. Love it
 
For professional, regular use:
Echo 2511t
Echo 2500t battery saw?
Stihl 151t
Husqvarna T540xp
Husqvarna T540xpi battery saw
Stihl 200t/201t(c-m)
Echo 355t
For occasional users:
Stihl 194/193/192
Echo 271t
Jonsered/Redmax 30cc saws
Makita Battery top handle
Stihl 160 battery top handle


Don’t bother with the rest and stay away from Asian clone top handles.

I use the 2511t 10 times more than any other top handle but for the OP, 355t will deliver more power at a lower price.
thanks for your suggestion.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top