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Does the timing and muffler mod adversely affect the longevity of the engine?
Muffler mod is typically always beneficial to engine life, especially on homeowner saws. It gets the heat out, thus lowering the overall temperature of everything. It is probably the best power/effort mod one can do on a saw. Now if you cut in a suburban area you must consider your neighbors. It obviously makes the saw louder.

Timing/porting can absolutely destroy an engine if not done right. If you want to grind on the cylinder, try opening the EXIT of the exhaust port (and gasket if restrictive). Don't touch the inside of the cylinder, don't touch the intake. You'll have to take the cylinder off and reinstall it, so you'll want some youtube education and a piston ring compressor.

Just doing those 2 things to my 250 woke it up majorly. With an 18" bar it is the tool for all trees and limbs under 14". I'll go to it before the 60-70cc pro saws.
 
I recommend opting for the Echo CS 4510 based on your requirements for durability and reliability. It's known for its robust build and longevity, which makes it well-suited for logging and conservation work. Additionally, it should handle an 18 or 20-inch blade without any issues. While Stihl makes good saws, if you prefer a saw that starts easily and has a longer lifespan, the Echo CS 4510 seems to be a better fit for your needs in the 45cc to 50cc range.
I've never run the 4510 but my cs490 is a lovely saw.
 
geeze, get some plastic wedges!!
Or make your own. Hardwood.. Elm. or Oak. painted so I can easily find them. I leave them somewhat ruff so they don't jump out like smooth Plastic. I make 4 of them quickly using my Jig. I'll make up to 12 or more on a rainy day. Cut a few boards right out of a stump. Cure them, use them. Free and at 6 bucks a wedge you make 24 dollars in 15 or 20 minutes plus tax so I save 100 dollars playing in the shop on a rainy day..I like them better than plastic..Just MY opinion..
 

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18" and under, I'd go with an MS261. When it came out, it was a game changer almost instantly and is still one of, if not THE best 50cc saw today, over a decade later. If you need a 20" bar regularly, I'd move up to a 400.

If you're mostly doing cleanup work where you're getting on and off of equipment all day, would a battery powered saw work?
 
18" and under, I'd go with an MS261. When it came out, it was a game changer almost instantly and is still one of, if not THE best 50cc saw today, over a decade later. If you need a 20" bar regularly, I'd move up to a 400.

If you're mostly doing cleanup work where you're getting on and off of equipment all day, would a battery powered saw work?
I have a battery powered Husqvarna and they just sent me a return label for it. It's not anywhere near the saw it should be for what they cost. It would have been nice if it wasb worth it
 
How much does your 361 weigh and have you modified it at all?
I don't know if he's modified it, but the power head on a 361 weighs just over 12 lbs. IMHO, the 261 with a 16" or 18" bar would be a better fit because its 2 lbs lighter, and because the MS362 has a reputation for being a turd, and because the 400 is only half a pound more but gives you roughly 25% more hp.

Don't get me wrong, my 036 saws are my go to choice for bucking most of my firewood. The Stihl 360 family has enjoyed a reputation by many as being the ultimate 1 saw plan since they hit the market, and the Husqvarna equivalent (359xp???) shared the same reputation. However, the 400 is a game changer in that regard.

I'm curious to see if Stihl develops a similar model in the 10 lb range to compete with the 50cc saws. You'd literally end up with a 10 lb power head that has as much power as a 362. If they do, it will likely kill the 261 which will be unfortunate. If they don't, someone else will beat them to the punch.
 
How much does your 361 weigh and have you modified it at all?
You mean Echo 361P I assume. Those are supposed to weigh 8.4 pounds pho. It is a different layout, the exhaust comes out different place and it is essentially impossible to get a burn. If the Makita 3601 is still obtainable it is worth the extra weight an 9.3 pounds but you can touch a hot muffler. In the same sort of price range. Husqvarna seems to be allowing their 543 model to be steeply discounted at this time.

as to the modified the Echo 361p has double D adjustments not limiter caps so that would check off a common modification around here. I only have switched (and modified)the clutch drum to a rim for 1/4 and .325 chain,

edit: I see the picture now, discussing a 60cc class saw.
 
Or make your own. Hardwood.. Elm. or Oak. painted so I can easily find them. I leave them somewhat ruff so they don't jump out like smooth Plastic. I make 4 of them quickly using my Jig. I'll make up to 12 or more on a rainy day. Cut a few boards right out of a stump. Cure them, use them. Free and at 6 bucks a wedge you make 24 dollars in 15 or 20 minutes plus tax so I save 100 dollars playing in the shop on a rainy day..I like them better than plastic..Just MY opinion..
Good idea. I've made pine wedges for stage sets in the past...have jigs...somewhere :p
 
I don't know if he's modified it, but the power head on a 361 weighs just over 12 lbs. IMHO, the 261 with a 16" or 18" bar would be a better fit because its 2 lbs lighter, and because the MS362 has a reputation for being a turd, and because the 400 is only half a pound more but gives you roughly 25% more hp.

Don't get me wrong, my 036 saws are my go to choice for bucking most of my firewood. The Stihl 360 family has enjoyed a reputation by many as being the ultimate 1 saw plan since they hit the market, and the Husqvarna equivalent (359xp???) shared the same reputation. However, the 400 is a game changer in that regard.

I'm curious to see if Stihl develops a similar model in the 10 lb range to compete with the 50cc saws. You'd literally end up with a 10 lb power head that has as much power as a 362. If they do, it will likely kill the 261 which will be unfortunate. If they don't, someone else will beat them to the punch.
You can't compare a 361 with a 362, two different saws. And remember this saws uses 3/8 not .325 like a 261.
I have a 462 that weigh the same than the 361, and i keep using both
 
You can't compare a 361 with a 362, two different saws. And remember this saws uses 3/8 not .325 like a 261.
I have a 462 that weigh the same than the 361, and i keep using both
I don't disagree with what you are saying, but since they are both Stihl professional grade 60cc saws, I don't see how anyone could avoid making a comparison between them.

As far as chain pitch goes, the 362 (and for that matter a 261, 026, 034, 036, 361, 028, 029, and 290) will run BOTH .325 AND 3/8 pitch chains. You just need a rim of the appropriate pitch and the corresponding bar.
On both of my 036 saws, I've swapped out the driveshaft bearing and drum so that I'm running the same standard size spline on the drum that my 064 and G660 uses. I run them with a 9 pin .325 rim and an 18" bar. It makes for a pretty fast setup for bucking hardwoods. With the 362, you could also go the opposite direction and install a driveshaft bearing and drum for an 036 which would allow you to run a 7 pin or 8 pin .325 rim.
 
I don't disagree with what you are saying, but since they are both Stihl professional grade 60cc saws, I don't see how anyone could avoid making a comparison between them.

As far as chain pitch goes, the 362 (and for that matter a 261, 026, 034, 036, 361, 028, 029, and 290) will run BOTH .325 AND 3/8 pitch chains. You just need a rim of the appropriate pitch and the corresponding bar.
On both of my 036 saws, I've swapped out the driveshaft bearing and drum so that I'm running the same standard size spline on the drum that my 064 and G660 uses. I run them with a 9 pin .325 rim and an 18" bar. It makes for a pretty fast setup for bucking hardwoods. With the 362, you could also go the opposite direction and install a driveshaft bearing and drum for an 036 which would allow you to run a 7 pin or 8 pin .325 rim.
Been there, tried .325 and 3/8 LP in my 360 and 361, even with the 461 and 462. They were not usefull to me.

When I say it uses .325 it is because it needs some power to work well with 3/8. 20" and 3/8 in hardwood, for me it's at least 60+cc

The hardness of the wood is probably the deciding factor between 50 cc or 60 cc.

The 034 drum worked fine for me, probably the same one with small spline as the 036. I modified an 8-tooth .404 rim to fit 3/8 LP, just for testing purposes too.

Sorry for my english
 
The bulk of my wood is shagbark hickory which is one of the harder woods we have in the US. That said, I agree with you. For my 036 saws, I drop the depth gauges to around .035" so I can take advantage of the extra power available. The saws pull hard and cut fast, but they are also very grabby.
 

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