What chain works best for noodling hardwood

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Does it make sense to leave your clutch cover off and just use the bar nuts over big washers on the bar? To prevent clogging the discharge?
 
Don't run without a clutch cover. Maybe if your bar studs are long enough, you could add a washer between the bar and the clutch cover (not between the bar and the saw, as that would kill oiling).

I have found that a more worn out chain works better. I don't know if it's the shorter teeth, or more room to clear noodles, but I have a right-at-the-witness-marks loop of LGX that noodles much better than my newer chains.
 
BTW....noodling here in Texas describes a way to fish for catfish. You float down a riverbank, exploring holes in the bank under water where catfish lay in wait for prey. You stick your hand intheir mouth,they bite down,you run your hand out their gills and you pull them out of the hole. Good for an adrenaline rush when a 20 pounder clamps down on your hand.
I've done that in Michigan too:) it's way fun!!

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
Does it make sense to leave your clutch cover off and just use the bar nuts over big washers on the bar? To prevent clogging the discharge?
NO!

On another forum @Definitive Dave just posted a bad experience he had with that!

Philbert
 
I cut firewood with a MS 362 using either a 20 or 24 inch bar. I occasionally noodle big hardwood rounds and am finding that my chains dull really quickly. I have been using full chisel or semi chisel and neither one stays sharp long. Is there a type of chain that stays sharp longer for this?

I use semi chisel, often on very dirty wood, it stays sharp longer than full chisel, and I can rip the wood if needs be rather effectively.

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