What is best cleaner to clean-up saws with?

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JamesReed

JamesReed

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Getting ready this weekend to clean-up a couple of saws that has lots of grit and build up. What is the best thing you have found to clean-up grit, dirt and caked-up wood grit?
 
bump_r

bump_r

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I wouild initailly say Brake cleaner as it is quite effective and dries without residue, but it can attack some composite materials. I've destroyed military truck light housings with but a quick spray of red-can "Brakleen". You may try "'lectro wash" - its less uh, "vigorous" than brake cleaner, and also is residueless.

Stihl offers a spray cleaner. It does a good job, but cleaning up the cleaner is a real drag - that stuff is "soapy".

Compressed air and a bristle-brush at first, regardless, then use chemical cleaner for final detail.
 
bump_r

bump_r

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Garden hose? Not doubting it, but I'd feel kind of funny taking care to properly dry-store the saw, only to douche it out on purpose later on. Would it be good to fire it up and let it get to operating temp for some period of time to dry it out thoroughly?
 
Ax-man

Ax-man

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Kerosene for parts that are ok to sit overnight or longer in a small tank. B 52, Simple Green are very good degreasers if they are available in your area. Simple Green is water base and will freeze in an unheated shop when it gets real cold. I like to use those two products with compressed air and a brush to loosen the really caked on gunk. Carb spray type cleaners are what I use for the finish type clean-up to get the residue left over from the other cleaners. Carb or Brake Kleen type cleaners get expensive if you have a lot of cleaning to do, those cans don't seem to last too long.

Larry
 
lesorubcheek

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I've found that carb cleaners can lift paint if not removed immediately. This is in reference to painted metal, and I can't comment on its effect on plastic. I use WD-40 or equivalent with air for most cleanup.

Dan
 
Lakeside53

Lakeside53

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bump_r said:
Garden hose? Not doubting it, but I'd feel kind of funny taking care to properly dry-store the saw, only to douche it out on purpose later on. Would it be good to fire it up and let it get to operating temp for some period of time to dry it out thoroughly?


I do this all the time.... but yes, you do need to start up the saw and run it to warm/hot if you're storing it.

When I'm repairing a saw, I partially disassemble it (side covers, muffler, carb etc), stuff rags tightly into the ports, put screws in the hoses, and squirt liberally with 2:1 "purple cleaner" (which is the same as Castrol super clean), wait a few minutes, a little scrub on the tough spots with a scotch brite pad, and hose off with the garden hose. Takes off everything including burnt on pitch. 5 minutes, the customers are "wowed", and I'm now working clean..
 
Stihl Crazy

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For the past ten years I have used oven cleaner. Spray on, let sit 5-10 minutes, then wash off, using warm water and tooth brush. I use it on the cylinder also. Have seen no ill effects on paint or parts.
 
bump_r

bump_r

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Stihl Crazy said:
For the past ten years I have used oven cleaner. Spray on, let sit 5-10 minutes, then wash off, using warm water and tooth brush. I use it on the cylinder also. Have seen no ill effects on paint or parts.

will knock the hell out of rubber parts! Turns 'em all swollend and spongey. Be REAL careful around seals.
 
2Coilinveins

2Coilinveins

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What, no one uses their dishwasher? Note: those with wives/girlfriends are advised to try this at their own risk.

Seriously, compressed air is your friend. If it's REAL bad I'll use Simple Green and the garden hose, like many others. Then compressed air again.

Do any of you small engine techs charge a cleaning fee if a saw comes in dirty? I think you should, your time is far too valuable to be doing the work of a glorified dishwasher.
 
460Ted

460Ted

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I take Walmart Super Clean and wet a rag with it. After a quick wipe,there is no residual to worry about. Super Clean even makes quick work of the nasty oak stain that gets on the bar.
 
climber1423

climber1423

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A screwdriver to get through the thick stuff. Then blow it off with compressed air. Then brake part cleaner, ether, gas, kerosene on a rag to get whatevers left. It works and most of that stuff is around the shop.
 

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