What makes the MS 261 better than the 346 XP?

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Ok, you jokers:). Back to my most recent question.

IF I went with the 261, should I get the powerhead only and steal the 16" Oregon Pro Lite bar and 3/8" Oregon semi-chisel chain from my 260 or just get the 261 with 16" Stihl bar and .325 chain?

I ask as I'm not clear on the advantages and disadvantages of 3/8 vs .325 on a 50cc saw with 16" bar, or more specifically, on the 261.

I doubt your dealer will sell it to you PHO. I know mine won't. It's Stihl policy.
 
I doubt your dealer will sell it to you PHO. I know mine won't. It's Stihl policy.

Actually, I asked my dealer and he said he would. $500.

I could then put my 16" Pro Lite bar and semi-chisel on it...after I got a 3/8" sprocket, of course.

If I went 261, doing it this way would save me a little bit of money....but I may not be able to sell my 260 for as much not being able to offer it with 2 bars. So maybe it would be a wash. However, if the 3/8" chain on my Pro Lite 16" bar would for some reason be better than a .325 chain and 16" bar, I'd do it.
 
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Just stay with a 16" standard .325 set-up, but change the chain to Oregon LP or Stihl RSC if your wood is clean.

Thanks. What is the reason for .325 chain over 3/8" on a 16" bar on this saw though?

I also cut a variety of wood, clean and dirty. Is there a good do-it-all chain for this or is it best I get two different types?
 
Different chain is preferable, but semi-chisel will of course do it all - chisel won't.

.325 usually are smooter and nicer to use on a 50cc saw, and mostly faster as well, if you use the right ones (lots of crappy chain in .325 out there).
 
I have an important question:
Which one starts easier...less cold blooded as I am looking to replace my 026 which leaves me with a sore shoulder from trying to start it when even I use it.
 
Different chain is preferable, but semi-chisel will of course do it all - chisel won't.

.325 usually are smooter and nicer to use on a 50cc saw, and mostly faster as well, if you use the right ones (lots of crappy chain in .325 out there).

Thanks. When the time comes that I purchase one of these saws (few weeks), I'll have to inquire more about chains. So many to choose from...
 
We just like the 18" lenght for most firewood cutting situations.
It's what we run on 361, 044, 038 magII, we just switched to one on our efco 156.

I find the 261 pulls the 18 like the 346 pulls the 16, it's nothing more than personal preference. The 346 will handle a 18" bar just fine as well. Here we don't have that much big timber left. Our 460 and 660 usually run 25" bars, at times they will have 20" bars on them, it's just rare we need a big bar in our line of work.
Our 346 and 028 are set up with 16" bars. When the bars wear out I'll replace them with 18" bars just so I have a common lenght of bar on most of the saws. Even thought the 346/028/156/261 are set up with .325 chain vs 3/8 on the bigger saws.
I agree with Troll the 50cc saws just do better with .325 chain.
 
Thanks. When the time comes that I purchase one of these saws (few weeks), I'll have to inquire more about chains. So many to choose from...

Only a few is worth considering, imo - Oregon LP/LPX is my favourite, and then there are the Stihl RSC and RMC. Oregon BPX is also OK, if you want semi-chisel.
 
Thanks for the additional info, guys! Appreciated! If I go with the 261, I'll stick to the .325. Still kicking around the idea of buying both and selling the one that suits me least.

At any rate, in reading through this thread again and looking through others, I notice the terms bucking and limbing a lot. I get the general idea of each but would like to hear how you guys define the two terms. Maybe it doesn't really matter in my case but one thing that keeps coming up is that the nod goes to the 261 for bucking.

A very typical case for me is to salvage trees that a farmer has pulled out by a tractor and drug to a corner of his field to burn....cottonwood, some elm and locust (I typically don't take anything over 18" in diameter). I also drop trees that people want removed....typically no bigger than 12-15" in diameter. The species is varied hardwood. In all cases, I cut up pieces as small as 2" in diameter for firewood...partly because I'm thrifty and partly because I enjoy the speed at which I can whiz through the limbs...as strange as that may sound.
 
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Limbing

At any rate, in reading through this thread again and looking through others, I notice the terms bucking and limbing a lot. I get the general idea of each but would like to hear how you guys define the two terms. Maybe it doesn't really matter in my case but one thing that keeps coming up is that the nod goes to the 261 for bucking.
In logging, the limbs are removed after felling. A smaller, fast reving saw works best for this, but some just use their felling saw. Different strokes for different folks.

In firewood, some use a small (50cc) saw to limb (cut all the limbs off the trunk), then use a larger saw to buck up the log.

I would rather use one saw. I don't 'limb'. I cut the whole tree up for firewood. Under 20" I use the 346xp for all of it. Much over 20" and I'll fell and buck the biggest part with the 357xp.

I also use the 346xp for a lot of thinning and clearing logging roads, horse and ATV trails.

I hear the 261 has a little more torq than the 346xp, but does not rev as quick. So it could possibly be better then the 346 in a straight bucking situation, but I really don't know. I do know the 346xp does a fine job, bucking, felling and limbing.
 
In logging, the limbs are removed after felling. A smaller, fast reving saw works best for this, but some just use their felling saw. Different strokes for different folks.

In firewood, some use a small (50cc) saw to limb (cut all the limbs off the trunk), then use a larger saw to buck up the log.

I would rather use one saw. I don't 'limb'. I cut the whole tree up for firewood. Under 20" I use the 346xp for all of it. Much over 20" and I'll fell and buck the biggest part with the 357xp.

I also use the 346xp for a lot of thinning and clearing logging roads, horse and ATV trails.

I hear the 261 has a little more torq than the 346xp, but does not rev as quick. So it could possibly be better then the 346 in a straight bucking situation, but I really don't know. I do know the 346xp does a fine job, bucking, felling and limbing.

Thanks for the info. Appreciated!
 
Only a few is worth considering, imo - Oregon LP/LPX is my favourite, and then there are the Stihl RSC and RMC. Oregon BPX is also OK, if you want semi-chisel.

The 261 comes with the RMC3 chain. What would I notice if I switch to regular RMC? What's the difference between that and the RSC in terms of real world performance? Sounds like the RSC and 22LPX are similar, yes?
 
My dealer sets up all his saws with rsc, he doesn't carry but a few sizes of safety chain. It's a personal preference thing, LPX seems like it is the smoothest cutting chain I've ever run but is a little softer than the Stihl and I don't get as much use out of it. I run a **** load of rsc, I think you'll be able to tell a big difference between a sharp loop of rsc and the rmc3 chain.

Sunfish gave a excellent explanation of bucking /limbing. When by myself I also prefer to use one saw. When operating as a crew as we usually do, I have a a couple of guys limbing tops with the 261 and 346 and one guy dragging the main trunk to a central landing site for bucking and splitting. Usually we'll build a huge pile of logs and everyone starts bucking up logs, then we'll start the splitting process.

I do think the Stihl ES oem bar on the 261 is a heck of a lot better quality bar than the oem oregon that comes on the 346xp. I need to buy a sugi bar for the 346xp.
 
My dealer sets up all his saws with rsc, he doesn't carry but a few sizes of safety chain. It's a personal preference thing, LPX seems like it is the smoothest cutting chain I've ever run but is a little softer than the Stihl and I don't get as much use out of it. I run a **** load of rsc, I think you'll be able to tell a big difference between a sharp loop of rsc and the rmc3 chain.

Sunfish gave a excellent explanation of bucking /limbing. When by myself I also prefer to use one saw. When operating as a crew as we usually do, I have a a couple of guys limbing tops with the 261 and 346 and one guy dragging the main trunk to a central landing site for bucking and splitting. Usually we'll build a huge pile of logs and everyone starts bucking up logs, then we'll start the splitting process.

I do think the Stihl ES oem bar on the 261 is a heck of a lot better quality bar than the oem oregon that comes on the 346xp. I need to buy a sugi bar for the 346xp.

Solid info, again, IndianSprings! Can the RSC chain be sharpened with a round file?

Also, re all the replies I've gotten here, I don't want to leave anyone out. You've all been helpful!
 
The 261 comes with the RMC3 chain. What would I notice if I switch to regular RMC? What's the difference between that and the RSC in terms of real world performance? Sounds like the RSC and 22LPX are similar, yes?

I have the RSC, and it is a WIDE tooth. Throws big chips. I don't need all that saw dust. I want wood, so my next chain will be the RMC.
 
Yes a round file is what you want to use. An inexpensive alternative is the woodland pro sold by bailey's. It is made by carlton. We've run quite a bit of it. I'd place it third behind the Stihl and oregon. It is a good value for cheap wood cutting chain. It doesn't hold the edge that Stihl will, but is has a long tooth that will give a lot of chain life.
When they run it on sale it is cost a just a little more than half of what a stihl or oregon chain will normally cost. For the money it is a great chain, especially when your in real dirty wood and having to sharpen frequently anyway.
 

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