What other saws were or are problamatic?

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Trigger Man

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Seeing how the dolmar 5100 always seems to bring up a debate over what is causing it to fail, I thought we could use a thread about which other saws(brands and models) have issues or running problems, and use this thread to point out to other members what to look for if a certain saw has running problems.

I will use the husky 357 and 359 or the J-red 2156 and 2159 for an example,

Carberator intake boot clamp change(plastic to metal) and auto decomp on early model 357/2156.
 
Seeing how the dolmar 5100 always seems to bring up a debate over what is causing it to fail, I thought we could use a thread about which other saws(brands and models) have issues or running problems, and use this thread to point out to other members what to look for if a certain saw has running problems.

I will use the husky 357 and 359 or the J-red 2156 and 2159 for an example,

Carberator intake boot clamp change(plastic to metal) and auto decomp on early model 357/2156.

we used to have to work on a multitude of mcculloch titan 57' and 70's.
man what a p.i.t.a.. they were always leaking from the split in the case or loosing bolts and screws (no matter how much loc-tite/glue you used). plus the fuel lines would turn to goo if you looked at them funny. have you ever had to change a fuel/impulse line on a titan 57? toss it in the junk pile.

seems there is alot of poulans burning up in this area, too lean, nobody to tune them. pretty much the same reason as the dolmar 5100.

i'm sure there is the same amount of stihls, huskies and j-reds burning up, you just don't hear about them. the embarassment is probably keeping those guys quiet:ices_rofl:
 
actually, come to think of it. i was in hudsons last week talking to the guy behind the counter (husqvarna dealer) and he said that they have been getting a good amount of the smaller saws back with burned pistons. of course they are blaming the ethanol (too easy to be the real culprit i'm sure) the customers are getting from their local gas station. i asked him if maybe it has something to do with the epa having them set to lean but he said they tune the saw before it leaves the shop. sure they do, they crank the jet up against the limiter and think thats good enough.
i've had 2 huskies (very newish) come through here (365 and a 440) both just about to loose a piston and cyl. due to being WAY to lean (set up at hudsons).

again, i think the major problem is the ignorant (or just plain stupid, or doesnt give a hoot) dealers that are out there--giving the good ones the same rep as them.
 
The oilers on the homelite 330's were/are a terrible design. The homelite super 2 is also very difficult to work on.
 
any of the brand new homelite/ryobi crap is all junk for numerous reasons.
old mac 10-10's & homelite xl-12's had a problem of running so hot that after a tank of gas had run through them the vapor lock amongst other issues would not let you get the saw started back until it cooled off! i know a guy who cuts with 3 mac 10-10's because after he runs one out of gas he fills it up and picks up the next saw and keeps cutting lol
 
The oilers on the homelite 330's were/are a terrible design. The homelite super 2 is also very difficult to work on.
Hell Hoss them little old Super 2's are a piece of cake. Your just used to working on saws that takes an average man two hands to pick up.:greenchainsaw:
 
any of the brand new homelite/ryobi crap is all junk for numerous reasons.
old mac 10-10's & homelite xl-12's had a problem of running so hot that after a tank of gas had run through them the vapor lock amongst other issues would not let you get the saw started back until it cooled off! i know a guy who cuts with 3 mac 10-10's because after he runs one out of gas he fills it up and picks up the next saw and keeps cutting lol
I have seen several "locked up junk" Homelite Xl12's as they were called. All it was was one of the case bolts had came loose and was hitting the flywheel. This was a very common problem with this series of Homelites.
 
I never had any trouble working on my Super 2, but what bothered me about it was it would keep breaking the handle right at the back where the black plastic top piece joined it. I bought a new case for it (back then) and it broke in the same place. I'm thinking epoxy for next repair.
 
I've got a couple of those super 2's, A member told me that there was an upgrade for the carb on the super 2's that did'nt have the adjustable high speed jet, but they never did tell me what carb to use, does anyone know which carb was the replacement?:confused:
 
Husky 357's with the auto-deco, and 359 E-techs, (cat=heat) are both saws that I wasn't very fond of. I saw above average failure rates with both. (Same goes for their Jonsered cousins)

Most of the new 400 series saws have the jets that require the special tool to adjust, but the good news is that they do not have limiter caps. So, there's really no excuse regarding setting them up properly.
 
any of the brand new homelite/ryobi crap is all junk for numerous reasons.
old mac 10-10's & homelite xl-12's had a problem of running so hot that after a tank of gas had run through them the vapor lock amongst other issues would not let you get the saw started back until it cooled off! i know a guy who cuts with 3 mac 10-10's because after he runs one out of gas he fills it up and picks up the next saw and keeps cutting lol

Later gas caps solved this to some degree on the 10-10's. As far as the super 2's go I liked USING mine (two triggers), I just didn't like workin on them. It also occurs to me that even though we all love em, that the 125 Macs are no fun to put a new intake boot into. The SP81E Mac with the three piece ignition was no picnic, but (little known fact) a standaard Mac CDI will bolt in and solve that problem.
 
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Beyond any doubt, the XL-2 XL-Super 2, Little Red any of those names, trying to put the throttle linkage through the right hole, slide the enginge back in the case without picking the whole shooting match up and slinging it against the wall. Been there done that. I never belived chainsaws could fly, watched my paw in law attempt an altitude record with an XL-2 one day. Shoulda taking pictures.

:hmm3grin2orange:
 
we used to have to work on a multitude of mcculloch titan 57' and 70's.
man what a p.i.t.a.. they were always leaking from the split in the case or loosing bolts and screws (no matter how much loc-tite/glue you used). plus the fuel lines would turn to goo if you looked at them funny. have you ever had to change a fuel/impulse line on a titan 57? toss it in the junk pile.

:agree2:I had one of each replaced the fuel lines in both, got them running, and sold them on ebay shortly after the experience!
 
Went to the husky dealer that I used to work at this morning. They showed me a 576xp auto tune, 3 months old. Crank bearing puked. When I worked their all 3 of the 575xp's that we sold came back the same way(stopped stocking them after the 3rd one came back). Had to riched them up to 12000rpm to make them last.
 
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