When to replace a bar

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david1332

david1332

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How can you guys tell when exactly you need to replace a bar or just a sprocket nose?

For some reason one of my saws keeps cutting to the left. At first I Thought the chain was just sharpened unevenly however when I replaced the chain it was fine for a while but slowly started to arc to the left again. My chain also sits on the bar weird ( leans to the right) . I am going to take a level to the rails later. Maybe I just have it too loose? Idk I've never had this problem before and honestly take very good care of my bars and haven't had to replace them. However my guys aren't so nice to them and you can tell which one I primarily use ( 201tc and 441cm) and which ones they use (echo cs-400 & 590
 
Jimmy in NC

Jimmy in NC

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Check rail evenness with a square. I use a Pferd hand guide and level them. It is slow but I know where I am. A good disc sander or belt sander with a solid and accurate fence/table can also be used. A bar should run until the drivers are holding the tie straps up off the rails.. aka groove isn't deep enough any longer.
 
HarleyT
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How can you guys tell when exactly you need to replace a bar or just a sprocket nose?

For some reason one of my saws keeps cutting to the left. At first I Thought the chain was just sharpened unevenly however when I replaced the chain it was fine for a while but slowly started to arc to the left again. My chain also sits on the bar weird ( leans to the right) . I am going to take a level to the rails later. Maybe I just have it too loose? Idk I've never had this problem before and honestly take very good care of my bars and haven't had to replace them. However my guys aren't so nice to them and you can tell which one I primarily use ( 201tc and 441cm) and which ones they use (echo cs-400 & 590
Put up some pics!!!!
 
madhatte

madhatte

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That's not uncommon. Just know that if you've gotten the rails hot enough to spread and burr, they've likely gotten hot enough to crack, so be sure and look long and hard as you do the refurb. You'll see this happen most commonly on bars used on fires, or following an oiler failure.
 
wde_1978

wde_1978

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I have an aftermarket bar that crapped out in under a year - groove is too wide so the chains drive links are no longer properly supported.
This bar is no longer in usage and marked for recycling.
It wasn't worth its cost which was 1/3 of the cost of a Dolmar branded Oregon bar.

For comparison and example that I basically know how to maintain a bar, I am still successfully using the factory original bar on my PS-6400!
I had to deepen the groove twice in 11 years.
Regular maintenance consists of leveling and deburring the rails with a flat file, free handed.

By my limited experience a chain cutting crooked is primarily caused by a not so perfectly sharpened chain.
Secondarily and often an additional cause is a worn bar.

A bar is scrap once it can no longer be fixed cost efficiently, which in my case is a slapped out groove.
 
CR888

CR888

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A true bar should stand up on a flat level surface if it falls over you know which side is high/low. Most quality solid bars can be put back onto service if the links are'nt bottoming out but laminates with chipped noses etc usually have less repair options and get the bin sooner.
 
david1332

david1332

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Sorry forgot about it, too busy with the job. But I did inspect them and just decided to replace both of the bars. The rails on one were really uneven and upon further inspection of the2nd I had to grind down too much of the side rails to keep them. Thanks guys for the input
 
jr27236

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David,
I guess you run a tree service from what I read? Bars should be part of your maintenance. Dressing them and making sure to flip them on each chain change out will help them go a long way. (At least I'd do that)
 

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