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clayman

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For some reason I just can't seem to get a tree notched right for falling. It's not that I don't know how it's supposed to be done, I do, or at least I think I do, and while I am doing it I think it is right, but after I am done I back off and look at the cut , or notch, and I see that at best it is a sloppy job; not level, not aimed right, Crap!! I think I need to get a can of spray paint and paint a pattern on the tree or something. I wish I had a level on my saw. (346 XP. 18" bar)

It's not like I am new at this, but It seems to have gotten worse over time. Now I have two dead oaks (+/- 18") that I have to fall on a dime, and I could use some advice. They are not leaning wrong, and I plan to put a cable on them, but there is only one spot I can put each one without getting a hung tree. Any advice??
 
It sounds like you might need to hire someone to drop them!!!


A couple of things I practice when placement is critical:
  • when you have the tree faced, push the bar to the back of the cut. Then use the front handle to check the aim. You can also use a framing square if you aren't comfortable using the saw handle and your saw doesn't have a gunning line. You might also want to use a Sharpie to draw a gunning line on the top cover. It might look a little weird, but if it makes for a safe falling, I would say it is worth it.
  • when you feel the tree beginning its lean, pause for a second to see if it is headed where you want. If you gun through the holding wood, you can't use it to correct the lay. Obviously this isn't something to do in certain situations, but in general it can be used to steer the tree as it commits by adjusting the feed to the off side of where you want it to go.

You might want a cheap bullet level to help get the face cuts level side to side and front to back. Just make enough of a cut to hold the bar so that you can see if everything is level.
 
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On big diameter trees, I sometimes take a rope and tie it around the tree level and then spray a white ring around the tree. Sure helps as a reference on keeping the saw level on your cuts and that the backcut stays above the bottom of the notch. I very well understand your problem, we don't do this stuff everyday ;)
 
For some reason I just can't seem to get a tree notched right for falling. It's not that I don't know how it's supposed to be done, I do, or at least I think I do, and while I am doing it I think it is right, but after I am done I back off and look at the cut , or notch, and I see that at best it is a sloppy job; not level, not aimed right, Crap!! I think I need to get a can of spray paint and paint a pattern on the tree or something. I wish I had a level on my saw. (346 XP. 18" bar)

It's not like I am new at this, but It seems to have gotten worse over time. Now I have two dead oaks (+/- 18") that I have to fall on a dime, and I could use some advice. They are not leaning wrong, and I plan to put a cable on them, but there is only one spot I can put each one without getting a hung tree. Any advice??

Where are you at in East TN? I am working on a pretty big job right now, dropping 40 acres on a hill and if you want some practice feel free to come on out. Im so sick of just dropping trees right now I wouldn't mind a break in it.

Back to your problem. like someone suggested, there aint no shame in drawing on the tree to get yourself a nice level line to work off of, and practice sometimes needs to come into play. While finding yourself a forest to play in might be hard (except the one that I offered you) sometimes it helps to simulate the situation. Next time you get some logs, cut a few of em into four foot lengths, and prop em up like they are standing trees and do some practicing. Its how I cured my wife's problem of always dropping to the left on each and every drop. it was apparent that when cutting her notch the tip always pointed a bit down to the ground, and the tree always steered to the left when it dropped. A few logs propped up at the wood pile gave her a chance to practice without being nervous (not a lot of folks nervous standing next to a four foot log, but are intimidated by a full size tree)
Another thing, a lot of wrong direction can be cured with wedges. If you dont have any, get some. If you have some, use em. While they wont overcome a big hinge, they can influence direction a good bit

Like I said before, you want some practice and some pointers, let me know. I dont know everything about this job, but I learned from the best that insisted that if you cant hit a coffee can with the trunk you screwed up.
 
Even with all the felling i did, on the bigger trees i'd make a mark all the way around the tree with the saw just to make sure everything stay level. My father showed me this when i first started falling big White pine, i was 12 years old.
 
Even with all the felling i did, on the bigger trees i'd make a mark all the way around the tree with the saw just to make sure everything stay level. My father showed me this when i first started falling big White pine, i was 12 years old.

I have done that on some larger trees, make my own shallow cut felling marks (with a real small saw), then step back and eyeball it again, if necessary readjust beore committing to the real cuts, with the larger felling saw.
 
Thank you all for the suggestions. I have a small level, and I like the idea of marking the tree all the way around. After reading all this I can see that I am just not taking the time I need to take to make sure I am doing what I need to do before I just jump in and do it.

I know well enough that any time I spend making the fall cut right (even if it's hours) will be better than a hung tree.

Thanks much, and I live near the 407 exit on I-40
 
I'm in north east knoxville, hollar if you need some help some time, got plenty of saws. I'm no logger but have dropped a few trees, dont care a bit to share what little knowledge i have sometime.
 
Thank you all for the suggestions. I have a small level, and I like the idea of marking the tree all the way around. After reading all this I can see that I am just not taking the time I need to take to make sure I am doing what I need to do before I just jump in and do it.

I know well enough that any time I spend making the fall cut right (even if it's hours) will be better than a hung tree.

Thanks much, and I live near the 407 exit on I-40

Well, thats close enough,that aint but 30 minutes from here. PM me anytime you want to come on up and burn some two stroke.
 
Hey Avalancher, Rep sent... Nice of you to offer them a chance to cut down a few trees. What a great way to learn a few things and do it safely.

Years ago when I started, my dad would leave the stump a bit higher and he'd have me practice on them. Everytime I take down a tree, I think of him and the little tricks he taught me.

Well, thats close enough,that aint but 30 minutes from here. PM me anytime you want to come on up and burn some two stroke.
 

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