Which Saw For Firewood?

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Interesting, my neighbor has an almost new Stihl MS250. Not overly impressive anyplace. The choke/start/kill deal confused him so much he had to return it when it was new to get lessons on how to start it. It doesn't cut any faster than my Echo CS-360T, yet folks rave about them.

Seems like the Echo saws are quick to get beat down here. We have most of the new line-up at our disposal, and they are excellent saws, not the first hint of trouble from any of them.

We did have several older models and got rid of them, including a 500VL, and a couple of the reed valve engine top handles. They were very slow/underpowered.

The two 510's that we have get a LOT of use. Decent power, reliable and will cut more firewood per gallon of fuel than anything else we have. They have been ran on a steady basis now for at least 3 years, no issues anyplace. I'm still wondering why they have such a bad reputation?......Cliff
I always thought Stihl's start/stop/choke system was the easiest and most convenient of all the saws I've ever run to use. Squeeze the throttle and push down on the lever, pull the saw over a few times or until you hear the "pop", click the lever up one notch, pull it again and the saw starts, burp the throttle one more time to disengage the choke and you're running. Everything is done with your thumb. Doesn't really get much easier then that. Just my $.02.
 
I always thought Stihl's start/stop/choke system was the easiest and most convenient of all the saws I've ever run to use. Squeeze the throttle and push down on the lever, pull the saw over a few times or until you hear the "pop", click the lever up one notch, pull it again and the saw starts, burp the throttle one more time to disengage the choke and you're running. Everything is done with your thumb. Doesn't really get much easier then that. Just my $.02.

+1 on that. I find it very easy and straightforward.

I can see how someone with no 2-stroke experience might have problems at first. I notice the Homelite's they sell at Home Depot are labeled with step numbers: #1: Bulb x7, #2 Full Choke Pull x3, #3 Half Choke Pull, #4 Run. I can see how that might be easier than just the full-choke and half-choke symbols alone, for someone who's unfamiliar with these little engines.
 
Interesting, my neighbor has an almost new Stihl MS250. Not overly impressive anyplace. The choke/start/kill deal confused him so much he had to return it when it was new to get lessons on how to start it. It doesn't cut any faster than my Echo CS-360T, yet folks rave about them.

All things considered, it's gonna be hard to beat an MS250, it's not really expensive, dealer network is everwhere, the only saw I know of thats easier to start is this one because it has this but I know too many people using an MS250 in full time tree service that are satisfied with it, for sure it is a fine little saw. If it was me, and I was you (lmao I love say'n that) I'd get an MS361 and replace both the saws, but thats just the kind of person I am, you will love a 250 I'm sure of it, even if it was you and you were me.

Later,
 
use the 359 full time and the WT in a pinch.

that's saving some money!!!!!:givebeer:
This is the best advice yet! But There is that whole want thing, not need thing comes into play. Mod that 359 first try a Muffler mod then some mild porting and piston work.Ported It will eat any stock 60cc saw including the 361.:) Or look for a deal on a used 346 husky the older 46cc saw.There is so many choices in the small saw category take your pic.
 
Get the Stihl MS180, it's a great saw for limbing anything 8" or under, I paid $199 for mine:

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I use my saws to cut firewood and that's where most of my heat comes from. I don't use them everyday so I don't have to have top of the line and cost is a factor. I have a Husqvarna 359 and a Poulan Wild Thing. I'm very satisfied with the 359. I use the Poulan for cutting limbs and that's what I want to replace. I want to get a light durable saw that won't set me back an arm and a leg. I thought about the Husqvarna 334T but it's a top handle saw. A saw that is light like the 334T and has a rear handle would probably be perfect. Just keep in mind that I can't spend big money on this saw and all suggestions will be appreciated.

Danny

I really like my Jonsered 2171 but it's kind of expensive.
 
+1

You wanted light: It's one of the lightest, like a good knife or so...

You wanted rear handle: The one without a 'T' has a rear handle.

It's a Stihl, so the quality is decent, and the price is... well, decent.
Thanks, for putting the bug on your quote. I just beat the heck out of my computer screen, with the fly swatter.
Bruce.
 
What about those smaller Dolmar saws---don't they have the magnesium or aluminum cases, like their bigger brothers? I've only handled the 5100, so I'll leave it to someone else to comment (and I'm sure they will!!!)
 
What about those smaller Dolmar saws---don't they have the magnesium or aluminum cases, like their bigger brothers

Yes they do and H/L carb adjustment (unlike the little Stihls) and decompression valve. Only got about 5 tanks through mine but really starting to like it a lot!.....Very nice little saws!

Dolmar401.jpg
 
What about those smaller Dolmar saws---don't they have the magnesium or aluminum cases, like their bigger brothers? I've only handled the 5100, so I'll leave it to someone else to comment (and I'm sure they will!!!)

Yup! I have the Makita DCS401 which is the Dolmar PS-401 in blue. It does have magnesium cases, adjustable carb, and compression release. This is a really nicely made saw, and very lightweight. The powerhead is 8.8# advertised and verified on my scales. 3/8 .050 91 series chain, verrrrrry smooth......and fairly quiet. Get one while you still can! (I have 2)
 
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