Wood volume observations

[laser]

For ease of transport, don't forget splitting by hand. Particularly if you're not doing a large load -- in clear wood you can split as fast as or faster than a splitter, just not as long.

Jack

That was the plan until I tried to split some of the smaller rounds of that oak that I did take, with a Fiskars (no, not a SS ). Didn't budge. I'm young, but I don't have the muscle or energy to pull that off. I've got a few health problems I have to deal with.

That Fiskars Pro Splitting Axe destroyed some other oak, and birch didn't stand a chance. It was like breaking ice. This oak laughed at me.

Oh, how I want a Super Splitter. It's on the to-do list. Along with a monster maul and more wedges.

 

[howellhandmade]

That was the plan until I tried to split some of the smaller rounds of that oak that I did take, with a Fiskars (no, not a SS ). Didn't budge. I'm young, but I don't have the muscle or energy to pull that off. I've got a few health problems I have to deal with.

That Fiskars Pro Splitting Axe destroyed some other oak, and birch didn't stand a chance. It was like breaking ice. This oak laughed at me.

Oh, how I want a Super Splitter. It's on the to-do list. Along with a monster maul and more wedges.

Stick with it, and good luck. Doing firewood has a way of giving you more muscle and energy.

Jack

 

[gwiley]

When using a wedge on tough rounds start with it near the outer edge rather than in the middle - this can make a huge difference. I also like to use the wedges with a very gradual bevel, not the ones you normally see at lowes or home depot. You need the sharp edge to get it started into the wood - I save the wide edged wedges for following a stuck wedge.

Your maul should be a little heavier than the wedge, not the other way round. If you don't have the mass/muscle to properly accelerate an 8# maul then move to a 6# or 4# - acceleration is more important than weight.