ms 660 oil

When it comes to the bar oil output on my saw I dont know if I have a normal condition or if there is a problem. I have replaced the tank vent, guide plate and can verify that the oilamatic holes are clear of debris. There are no restrictions between oil pickup and pump, pump and bar feed hole. The oil feed adjustment screw is at max oil setting. The chain has a coating of oil while cutting wood but does not throw any oil off the tip per stihl manual. Do you think I have a problem? Thanks allot guys.

My 066 uses maybe 1/3 tank oil every time I refill the gas. Of course, I don't run the gas tank empty, usually refill when there is only 1/3 to 1/4 tank gas remaining.

In other words, for every complete tank of gas, it uses about 1/2 tank oil. That's not a lot. It does lube the chain but there is very little spray being flung off the bar.

If your saw is consuming about that much oil, and it isn't dribbling out around the clutch, then I'd say your oiler is working normally.

If you want more oil, there is a high output oiler available for the 066/660. Search for Lakeside's oiler upgrade thread.

pete029 said:

When it comes to the bar oil output on my saw I dont know if I have a normal condition or if there is a problem. I have replaced the tank vent, guide plate and can verify that the oilamatic holes are clear of debris. There are no restrictions between oil pickup and pump, pump and bar feed hole. The oil feed adjustment screw is at max oil setting. The chain has a coating of oil while cutting wood but does not throw any oil off the tip per stihl manual. Do you think I have a problem? Thanks allot guys.

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If the chain is not dry during use then you are getting enough oil. It does not sound right as all of mine will toss oil off the tip on the high setting. Did you check the oil-er gear and the metal arm that engages the clutch drum? Was the oil tank contaminated with wood dust?

How sticky is the bar oil? I ask because I recently cleaned out a saw that had some oil in it that was so sticky it had to sit on its side overnight to drain.

How long of a bar are you using? On the long 36" bar it will probably just coat the chain and not sling. On a 20" bar it will sling.

I am running a 25" bar on it. I do notice that there is some oil escaping and not from the clutch cover but from the bottom side of the bar in line where the oil hole is.

Pete,

Did you resolve your issue with oil? I just bought a new 660 and there is very little oil visible on my 25" bar/chain combination. I'm also wondering if this is normal. All of my other chainsaws throw oil off the end of the bar.

Thanks - Rick

Hey Rick I guess its normal if you experience the same with a new saw. I recall someone on this site talking about the EPA trying to control the amount of bar oil used in the woods. Is it broken in yet?

I think the bar length matters

Dadatwins has a good point. If you have a 20" bar and change to an 18" bar, you've reduced the number of links needing oil by over 10%. So if you didn't change the oiler, you'd effectively be putting 10% more oil on each link.

But I think it's also true that Stihls are known for not seeming to put out enough oil, even though they are.

I can barely get oil to throw off my 029 Super and 039, both with 20" bars. I've starting soaking new chains in oil and letting them drip dry before I ever use them on a saw.

Pete,


Just on my first tank of gas, new chain, new bar. Amazing saw! I'm just surprised by how little oil the chain seems to have on it. Perhaps it is a testament to their Oilmatic system.

- Rick

on my 064, when i am turning the 36" B+C with the oil all the way up there is not alot of oil visible, but there is oil in the chain groove, that is all you need. if the groove it moist it is working, if you had no oil in there you would know it for sure.

the oilematic and ematic stihl bars are designed to not need as much oil to lube properly if you look in the groove near the tail there are two humps of some sort in the groove that directs oil to the chain drivers so you need less oil.

A helpful thread. Thanks to everyone for their posts.

- Rick

ironman_gq said:

the oilematic and ematic stihl bars are designed to not need as much oil to lube properly if you look in the groove near the tail there are two humps of some sort in the groove that directs oil to the chain drivers so you need less oil.

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I'm in search of the high output, or Australian oiler for my 660's, for milling.

What this statement tells me is that we are in trouble if we run a non-Stihl bar and chain combo on a 660. To me this is worse than flippy caps. Once again dang engineers fixing something and making it worse. I can't wait till they decide to lighten the saw by reducing the fuel tank to 1 oz.

My new 660 did ok for bar oil till I put the 36" bar on then I didn't think the bar oil was sufficient. I upgraded my pump the the high output Australian bolt and piston as shown in the parts manual. Not a very hard job and now it really puts the oil on. I am sure some of the guys on here have the Stihl part numbers needed. You basically remove the bar oil pump and change out the internal components.

Steve

saxman said:

My new 660 did ok for bar oil till I put the 36" bar on then I didn't think the bar oil was sufficient. I upgraded my pump the the high output Australian bolt and piston as shown in the parts manual. Not a very hard job and now it really puts the oil on. I am sure some of the guys on here have the Stihl part numbers needed. You basically remove the bar oil pump and change out the internal components.

Steve

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Is that pump adjustable?

Yes, you can't tell the difference when you are done, same adjustment. You change the piston and control bolt out in the stock pump body. I believe the new piston has a longer stroke so it delivers more oil to the bar

Stihl 660 oiler problems...

There is an adjustment screw for the oiler underneath the saw. Can anyone tell me what the range is of the screw? I can only turn mine 1/4 turn. That doesn't seem right. I'm still having problems getting enough oil on my chain.


Thanks - Rick

There is not a lot of adjustment. Make sure it is set to max and check to see if the bar has oil in the groove. Is the bar getting burned, or is the chain sticking in the groove? Doesn't need to throw a huge rooster tail to be functioning as designed.

saxman said:

Yes, you can't tell the difference when you are done, same adjustment. You change the piston and control bolt out in the stock pump body. I believe the new piston has a longer stroke so it delivers more oil to the bar

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And in Lakesides epic oiler thread http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=31559 he mentions about losing a piece and needing a certain torque wrench. Also someone posts about just grinding down the piston or the bolt. The parts were about $35, the complete australian pump from Stihl is $75, I've got two on order.

gemniii said:

And in Lakesides epic oiler thread http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=31559 he mentions about losing a piece and needing a certain torque wrench. Also someone posts about just grinding down the piston or the bolt. The parts were about $35, the complete australian pump from Stihl is $75, I've got two on order.

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+1. This is a very simple fix if you need more oil.