bought a saw to tinker with, any suggestions

hey, im new to the fourms. i just bought a husqvarna 55 rancher off ebay haven't got it yet but its suppose to have a scored piston im not sure about the condition of the cylinder. right now im planing on getting a kit of ebay with the a P&C, gaskets, and ill order a wristpin bearing. does this seem like a good start? any suggestions welcome any tips to make the process go easier?
Thanks,
Nathan

Make sure when you reassemble your saw you find out what scored the cylinder. Such as air leak, wrong mix or misadjusted carb. I would pressure test the saw for air leaks after you install cylinder and intake. I think Husy 51 and 55 Had problematic intakes. And you are probaly best to replace it. Oh yeah welcome to AS.

There is another thread at the momement On a Husky 55 rebuild. In that thread it tells you what you need to replace on your intake.

Good pick on the 55... there seems to be a decent supply of parts floating around on the net (oem, aftermarket, and used).

Thanks for the info on the other 55 rancher thread. After doing some reading there im leaning towards the metor C&P from baileys insted of the ebay kit. Also any links on rebuilding/tuning carbs would be appreciated

I would wait to order the cylinder until you see the condition of the one on it. Aluminum transfer can be removed with hydrochloric acid.

GA_Boy said:

I would wait to order the cylinder until you see the condition of the one on it. Aluminum transfer can be removed with hydrochloric acid.

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Will do. I post back when I get it in.
Thanks,
Nathan

go the saw in today and pulled the Cylinder looks pretty bad, where do you find the hydrochloric acid?

ndlawrence said:

...where do you find the hydrochloric acid?

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I think you want muriatic acid, and it's sold at most hardware stores.

Dab some on with a Q-tip and "scrub". It will remove the aluminum from the melted piston and it will show as black on your Q-tip. Keep at it for a while. If you realize that the cylinder plating is scored then you might as well stop there and plan to get a new cylinder. If all the aluminum comes off, and the cylinder plating is good and smooth, then you just saved yourself a bunch of $.

"bought a saw to tinker with, any suggestions"

1. Give it to me
2. One seems like such a good idea why should we clutter things up with any more?
3. Refer back to ideas 1 & 2.........

Keep a eye on Ebay because I picked up a good used 55 piston and cylinder for under $40 shipped. You will defiantly want to replace the impulse grommet, part number 505 31 07-51, the intake boot, part number 503 16 16-02, and maybe even the intake block, part number 503 76 48-01. Most air leaks I have found on these saws have been from the impulse grommet and/or intake boot.

Be careful when reinstalling the carb because it is very easy to over tighten and strip out the threads in the intake block.

Brian VT said:

I think you want muriatic acid, and it's sold at most hardware stores.

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hydrochloric acid = muriatic acid

Hydrochloric acid - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I got my parts in today to find that there wasn't a gasket set in my nwp kit you think using rtv sealnt would be fine?

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Roanoker494 said:

"bought a saw to tinker with, any suggestions"
Most air leaks I have found on these saws have been from the impulse grommet and/or intake boot.

Be careful when reinstalling the carb because it is very easy to over tighten and strip out the threads in the intake block.

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There is also a thread where barneyrb fixed his intake block with M5 Helicoils, sounds good to me.

I am considering using stainless safety wire to twist around the intake boot at each end to make a "clamp", Roanoker - any thoughts?

Impulse grommet can be made from the correct size tubing, on a recent project I happened to have some laying around!

It runs! But will not idle It dies out below half throttle I've tried adjusting the low screw, and also I did put a carb kit in

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ndlawrence said:

It runs! But will not idle It dies out below half throttle I've tried adjusting the low screw, and also I did put a carb kit in

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I hope you also cleaned out the carb- stuff like the filter screen in the diaphragm chamber, and the metering restrictions.

If you look on Amazon (or other booksellers) you'll find various repair manuals, with some covering most-all brands, that'll give you pictures and how-to. Clymer's is a good one.

Also, Paul Dempsey's "Two-Stroke Engine Repair & Maintenance"
is a good source of generalities and particulars of diagnosing and repair of 2-strokes. Including vacuum & pressure- testing for crankcase air leaks. Before running it with new p/c, do test it for air leaks, and avoid destroying another.

ndlawrence said:

Also any links on rebuilding/tuning carbs would be appreciated

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