Husqvarna 288XP oiler problems

[B.C.]

I've got a 288 I picked up off of craigslist, the really beat up work saw special. I think by the time I'm done with it I may as well have bought a new one, heh. So here goes with the issues, what I've already resolved, and the most mystifying that remain.

I might preface this by saying I think there is a leak inside the case halves in the oil tank...

Removed carburetor & cleaned, looked fine, didn't really need anything.
Physically cleaned the crap out of it, was filthy.
Made a new air filter stud, one fell out.
Installed new seals both sides.
Made a idle screw, it was not present either, however it isn't set because the saw idles fine without turning it in enough to touch. I have also been able to tune it just fine and it throttles up good and idles pretty good. Despite there seeming to be a pretty big leak still inside the oil tank. I have not cut wood with it, no point until I get it good. It does change speed when tipped to one side or the other. I thought seals would solve that and when I pressure tested they did leak, at least one did I recall. It did not solve that, although it does run decent.
New muffler
New flywheel wire cover thing
New annular buffers

Thought it was good enough to run but when testing with a bar & chain on, even though it was running good it was throwing so much oil it was just silly, hence I started to then fool around with the oiler. Thought maybe it was leaking from behind or something. Long story short, I ordered a brand new oiler and put that on. Oiled really good of course, also realized running it with the worm gear on and the clutch drum not attached will let it spin free on the shaft and create lots of friction and started to melt the worm gear. Caught it in time damage was minimal, it was just starting to smoke the worm gear. Took worm gear off. Ran it without. Noted curiously that oil was still seeming to be pumped?!? Also there was oil coming out of the area of the oiler where the gear is, which seemed like that shouldn't be happening on an oiler. I didn't recall any other rotary type oiler that could leak oil there like that? Normally they are pretty dry where the worm gear engages the pump roller gear aren't they? Seemed like this one would have gotten totally drenched in time. I put the original one on there that is god only knows how old (only reason I took it off was because I assumed the oiler was why it was putting out silly amounts of oil, and the O ring on the back is old and I couldn't find a new one also.) After putting the old one back on, I was surprised to see that oil was still coming out the bar hole, in fact it was spitting out with force and air pressure now, a pretty good amount of air pressure. I took the oil cap off and the oil had a million tiny bubbles in it. I did not like this.... Thus I suspect that in reality there is a leak inside the oil tank from the crank case and the gasket has failed. There should be no pressure in there I wouldn't think and the oiler should be unpressurized. I hope that the new oiler is not defective also and that the only reason it was leaking is because the additional crank pressure was forcing oil onto the gear. I suppose it could also have crappy internal parts even brand new...

So, I think I have to split the case? And I have never done that. I DO have a gasket kit on hand though that I ordered previously, Hyway brand I think and also have some new china bearings on hand and new seals if I need them. Another thought while I have it apart is the connecting rod bearing, how to check for slop and how to replace if needed? I've done a fair number of smaller easier saws but this will be a first for me as far as large split case saws.

 

[Huskybill]

For parts search partstree, jacks, ereplacement parts. Leave no stone unturned. My dealer for parts is “chainsaws unlimited” in southbury,ct.

Sounds like it’s time to split the case, use a silicone sealer with the gasket on the reassemble. I like to use the pro seal silicone it’s high temp. Inspect the oil pump for a seal problem. A bad o ring?

I understand the cost in doing these rebuilds. Ya I could of purchased a new saw too but think of the fun we’re having.?

 

[B.C.]

This will be a first. If I split the case (assuming I figure it out and don't break anything and successfully put it back together) and the oiler still does the same thing I'm going to be real unhappy. Its odd because it passed a pressure test of the crank case. At least it seemed like it did. But there is no reason the oiler ought to have bubbles in it, unless maybe I screwed up on the seal install.

I've now watched a video by Matthew Olson on splitting a 181, he used a case splitter and then he used a custom tool to reinstall the crank & bearings / case halves back together with. I have none of those tools. Should I buy his custom bearing / case / crank reinstall tool? Or is there something easy I can make? Seems I'll have to get the splitter from a dealer? Not sure where to find these special parts tools I will need to do it.

 

[Yotaismygame]

Get a case splitter. To install the bearings heat up the case around the bearing seat. Bearings will almost fall right in. I had a 288 that had cracked inside the case between the oil tank. It ran great until I put bar oil in it. It would smoke like crazy from sucking bar oil into the crank case. Chainsaws need to be 100% sealed, cannot leak at all period.

 

[B.C.]

I bought a case splitter yesterday. Should be here next week. I also got a set of Matthew Olson's tools for pulling the crank back into the bearings once I put new ones into the case halves. I think Husqvarna has tools for that but I couldn't find squat for info on which ones I would need so I just bought his full main set instead because I was spending all day looking and local dealers was like talking to a wall. Apparently none of them ever use the actual tools, for splitting or for reassembly. Dude at the one place said they use air hammer for disassembly. Never heard of anyone doing that but says he's done it for 30 years that way. They didn't seem concerned about damaging bearings by just slapping them together with force & heat. I will probably use a little heat just to make it go a little easier but I'll be using the splitter and his crank puller and a piece of threaded rod I think. If the internal seal between the oil tank and crank isn't the problem though I might loose my mind. Heh.

 

[Yotaismygame]

Too complicated for me. All you need to do is split the case with the tool, heat the case up a bit and knock out the bearings. Heat case and install new bearings, use socket to install new seals. Heat the case and bearings, freeze crank and tap crank in one side, flip the case over and tap it in the other, and then use the case bolts to pull it all together. So all you need is the splitter, heat, and a mallet.