bought a saw to tinker with, any suggestions

[ndlawrence]

hey, im new to the fourms. i just bought a husqvarna 55 rancher off ebay haven't got it yet but its suppose to have a scored piston im not sure about the condition of the cylinder. right now im planing on getting a kit of ebay with the a P&C, gaskets, and ill order a wristpin bearing. does this seem like a good start? any suggestions welcome any tips to make the process go easier?
Thanks,
Nathan

 

[rob066]

Make sure when you reassemble your saw you find out what scored the cylinder. Such as air leak, wrong mix or misadjusted carb. I would pressure test the saw for air leaks after you install cylinder and intake. I think Husy 51 and 55 Had problematic intakes. And you are probaly best to replace it. Oh yeah welcome to AS.

 

[rob066]

There is another thread at the momement On a Husky 55 rebuild. In that thread it tells you what you need to replace on your intake.

 

[procarbine2k1]

Good pick on the 55... there seems to be a decent supply of parts floating around on the net (oem, aftermarket, and used).

 

[ndlawrence]

Thanks for the info on the other 55 rancher thread. After doing some reading there im leaning towards the metor C&P from baileys insted of the ebay kit. Also any links on rebuilding/tuning carbs would be appreciated

 

[GA_Boy]

I would wait to order the cylinder until you see the condition of the one on it. Aluminum transfer can be removed with hydrochloric acid.

 

[ndlawrence]

I would wait to order the cylinder until you see the condition of the one on it. Aluminum transfer can be removed with hydrochloric acid.

Will do. I post back when I get it in.
Thanks,
Nathan

 

[ndlawrence]

go the saw in today and pulled the Cylinder looks pretty bad, where do you find the hydrochloric acid?

 

[Brian VT]

...where do you find the hydrochloric acid?

I think you want muriatic acid, and it's sold at most hardware stores.

 

[Brian VT]

Dab some on with a Q-tip and "scrub". It will remove the aluminum from the melted piston and it will show as black on your Q-tip. Keep at it for a while. If you realize that the cylinder plating is scored then you might as well stop there and plan to get a new cylinder. If all the aluminum comes off, and the cylinder plating is good and smooth, then you just saved yourself a bunch of $.

 

[Roanoker494]

"bought a saw to tinker with, any suggestions"

1. Give it to me
2. One seems like such a good idea why should we clutter things up with any more?
3. Refer back to ideas 1 & 2.........

Keep a eye on Ebay because I picked up a good used 55 piston and cylinder for under $40 shipped. You will defiantly want to replace the impulse grommet, part number 505 31 07-51, the intake boot, part number 503 16 16-02, and maybe even the intake block, part number 503 76 48-01. Most air leaks I have found on these saws have been from the impulse grommet and/or intake boot.

Be careful when reinstalling the carb because it is very easy to over tighten and strip out the threads in the intake block.

 

[GA_Boy]

I think you want muriatic acid, and it's sold at most hardware stores.

hydrochloric acid = muriatic acid

Hydrochloric acid - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[ndlawrence]

I got my parts in today to find that there wasn't a gasket set in my nwp kit you think using rtv sealnt would be fine?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

 

[Captain Crunch]

"bought a saw to tinker with, any suggestions"
Most air leaks I have found on these saws have been from the impulse grommet and/or intake boot.

Be careful when reinstalling the carb because it is very easy to over tighten and strip out the threads in the intake block.

There is also a thread where barneyrb fixed his intake block with M5 Helicoils, sounds good to me.

I am considering using stainless safety wire to twist around the intake boot at each end to make a "clamp", Roanoker - any thoughts?

Impulse grommet can be made from the correct size tubing, on a recent project I happened to have some laying around!

 

[ndlawrence]

It runs! But will not idle It dies out below half throttle I've tried adjusting the low screw, and also I did put a carb kit in

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

 

[CTYank]

It runs! But will not idle It dies out below half throttle I've tried adjusting the low screw, and also I did put a carb kit in

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

I hope you also cleaned out the carb- stuff like the filter screen in the diaphragm chamber, and the metering restrictions.

If you look on Amazon (or other booksellers) you'll find various repair manuals, with some covering most-all brands, that'll give you pictures and how-to. Clymer's is a good one.

Also, Paul Dempsey's "Two-Stroke Engine Repair & Maintenance"
is a good source of generalities and particulars of diagnosing and repair of 2-strokes. Including vacuum & pressure- testing for crankcase air leaks. Before running it with new p/c, do test it for air leaks, and avoid destroying another.

 

[jus2fat]

Also any links on rebuilding/tuning carbs would be appreciated

Pro Saw Maintenance & Repair Menu

Saw Carb Tuning

J2F