Running .404 chain where its not normal

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TK

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Just for the heck of it. I understand it may not be the most viable choice to run it as 3/8 is more plentiful, setups are more common, etc. etc.

But just for fun why not? I don't think it would be bad. Let's just run the numbers for a moment...

A 3120xp at 8.4hp running a 36" bar is boasting .23HP per inch of bar.
A 365sp at 4.6hp running a 20" bar is boasting .23HP per inch of bar.

A modded 365 would do better. Sure, 20" of .404 is only 7DL less than that of 3/8, but hey I'm lazy, less teeth to sharpen the better! Am I nuts to want to run .404 on my 365? I think it would just plain look neat.
 
I have tossed around the idea of puttin a 16" .404 setup on my 346 and making a vid, just to bug sawtroll. Maybe I will....

Is there a .404 rim that fits the small Oregon spline?
 
I have tossed around the idea of puttin a 16" .404 setup on my 346 and making a vid, just to bug sawtroll. Maybe I will....

Is there a .404 rim that fits the small Oregon spline?

I haven't seen one that fits the small spline. I haven't even been able to find a bar that comes 20" in .404 :msp_mad: I'm finding I need to buy a .063 3/8 bar and swap the nose on it. The shortest I've found otherwise is 32"

I think when I get the saw back from Eric it will be strong enough to support the .404 :hmm3grin2orange:
 
.404 will stay sharp longer. I have saw someone post here a few days ago that some run .404 on the 372. Even on there 32" bars. So I don't see why not on a 20" bar. :msp_thumbup:
 
I recently bought a new 20" Stihl ES-W in .404/.063. I had to give the dealer the number since he didn't think there was such a thing. I use it with a 66-link carbide chain with the double-mounted carbide tooth inserts.
 
I haven't seen one that fits the small spline. I haven't even been able to find a bar that comes 20" in .404 :msp_mad: I'm finding I need to buy a .063 3/8 bar and swap the nose on it. The shortest I've found otherwise is 32"

I think when I get the saw back from Eric it will be strong enough to support the .404 :hmm3grin2orange:

Check Ebay under windsor bars there is one in there that I know of your 365 should handle .404 on a 20" my stock 385 handles .404 on a 33" great (at least I assume it is stock I bought it used)
 
As far as the bar goes...... just get the right guage 3/8 ths bar and change the nose sprocket over to a .404. Hackish as it may be, that's how my 2100 was set up when I bought it.
 
As far as the bar goes...... just get the right guage 3/8 ths bar and change the nose sprocket over to a .404. Hackish as it may be, that's how my 2100 was set up when I bought it.

Ya that's what it looks like will happen. Was hoping to find it in .058 or .050 so I wouldn't have to go outside of my normal stocked sizes.
 
.404 chain is heavier and will take a lot more strain and abuse without failures, and does have fewer teeth to sharpen for the same length bar.

.404 does take a much bigger kerf which means you are cutting more wood, doing more work, and so the cut times will be slower. For racing or maximum production it may not be the way to go, for greater durability and easier sharpening it does have advantages.

I have .404 on my BP-1 (47 cc gear drive) because I can't locate a 3/8" sprocket for that saw, I have one Titan 57 set up with .325 and another with 3/8 just to see how they compare, same thing with a couple of 10-10S models (same displacement as the Titan 57 saws but an older design saw).

I like .404 for bigger displacement saws, say over 80 cc in the older models with more torque but 3/8 for the 10 Series 82 cc saws as they like to run more RPM and the 3/8 fits them better.

For bigger, older, slower saws that rely more of torque the .404 is a good choice, for any saw that it designed for optimal performance at higher chain speeds the 3/8 will be superior.

Mark
 
I have .404 on a 46 inch roller nose bar for the homelite 770D
[video=youtube;0o0p8ZDAURM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0o0p8ZDAURM[/video]

I also have a 54cc McCulloch 10 series that runs .404 but it is a gear drive.
Photo0071.jpg
 
I bought 2 Stihl 20" ES bars for the .404 and 6 20" loops of skip chain. So you can get the bars from Stihl.

As to someone's quip about faster racing and maximum production, I have found those two phrases to be mutually exclusive, in many cases and when it comes to chain or 2 seconds faster and "more powerful" saws, it doesn't quite work that way in the real world.

When you consider that running .404 chain of any length on most any saw size will only (potentially) slow the cut times down a few seconds, yet in semi-chisel for the last so much longer, you will not see more production from 3/8" chain. Because you will never make up the loss of minutes in sharpening times with a few seconds per cut, just doesn't happen.

Its the same concept with Chisel chain versus Semi-Chisel chain and in many cases of dirty wood, 3/8" versus .404. For racing the fastest setup would be 3/8" Chisel chain, but for production .404 Semi-Chisel. With 3/8" Chisel chain you could go 30 minutes before needing to be sharpened ............... with .404 semi chisel you could go 4 hours. If Joe Blow was to put up a video of cookie cutting, it will clearly show that 3/8" Chisel chain is clearly faster at cookie cutting and bamm, every homeowner in the nation is clammering to get it, when to prove that .404 Semi Chisel ........ or 3/8" Semi-Chisel for that matter, is really the King at wood cutting production you would have to follow the cutter around for several hours or days and weeks to show that he is sharpening way, way less, therefore wasting less chain, therefore going through less chain, therefore ordering less chain, to the point that there isn't any place that semi-chisel isn't more practical and efficient, once you get past that cookie cutting loss of a couple of seconds.

Now go to he opposite side of the racing spectrum again from Semi Chisel ................. Square Filed Chisel, faster sure, more wood cut for the effort .............. not likely. If you add up the time that the typical Square Filed Chain user spends messing around with it, they can't even see the Semi-Chisel user over the piles of wood that the semi has cut, LOL. Not to mention the knee jerk reaction of Square Filed users to go buy a $1,000 chain grinder and play with their chain every night at home, while that might be fun for some, and there isn't anything wrong with that, its not faster wood cutting production for the effort involved, its just faster cookie cutting times ................ big difference.


Those that talk about racing or a few seconds here and there, and then wood cutting production in the chainsaw world simply don't understand what true production is all about and how to get there. Thats the problem with declaring a 2 seconds cookie cutting saw that gets horrible fuel mileage the winner and the fastest, when it doesn't necessarily work that way. It sure looks good on the stopwatch, but its just the fastest at cookie cutting, but due to poor efficiency it might not be the fastest at wood cutting production, again as I say many times, "Seconds faster and minutes slower".

The same philosophy goes for these "I cut firewood, which should I buy 90cc or 70cc?" threads ............... first of all most of these people are noobs and aren't pro loggers, if they were they would already know the answer to the question, and that is, they will cut more wood, much more easily with a 70cc saw, not the 2 second faster 90cc saw which weighs and handles like a brick irregardless of the manufacturer. The problem is "advisors" on these types of threads generally get all caught up in testicles and horsepower and a few seconds here and there, and its never about what saw will actually get more work completed for the effort of operating it, and in many or most cases its the smaller saws, as they are in many cases more efficient or in most if not all cases they allow the user/human to be more efficient, which is the whole key to higher production.

My experience and opinion,

Sam
 
"Seconds faster and minutes slower". very true very true i sell fire wood as far as i'm concerned404 is quicker at the end of the day, been useing it for 3years

If Joe Blow was to put up a video of cookie cutting, it will clearly show that 3/8" Chisel chain is clearly faster at cookie cutting

hey sam if ya wont me to i will because i got the time and the gear 18" green pine log stihl RMC &RSC 20" bar in .404 & 3/8 20" bar stihl RSC carton semi haha. cheers
 
"Seconds faster and minutes slower". very true very true i sell fire wood as far as i'm concerned404 is quicker at the end of the day, been useing it for 3years

If Joe Blow was to put up a video of cookie cutting, it will clearly show that 3/8" Chisel chain is clearly faster at cookie cutting

hey sam if ya wont me to i will because i got the time and the gear 18" green pine log stihl RMC &RSC 20" bar in .404 & 3/8 20" bar stihl RSC carton semi haha. cheers

Sounds like a good comparison. One thing to keep in mind is the .404 is like running an 8 pin on the 3/8's so maybe do a 7 pin and an 8 pin with the 3/8" for a closer comparison to what normally gets run (7T) and what is actually "same for same" (8T).

Sam
 
Sounds like a good comparison. One thing to keep in mind is the .404 is like running an 8 pin on the 3/8's so maybe do a 7 pin and an 8 pin with the 3/8" for a closer comparison to what normally gets run (7T) and what is actually "same for same" (8T).

Sam

can do i have 7 & 8 pin 3/8 thanks to MCW :cheers:
 
Get a hardnose bar and then you can at leased use it for something other than playing.

The thought did cross my mind and that's a good idea, but I've already got the .063 3/8 bar and .404 nose ordered up :)

I bought 2 Stihl 20" ES bars for the .404 and 6 20" loops of skip chain. So you can get the bars from Stihl.

As to someone's quip about faster racing and maximum production, I have found those two phrases to be mutually exclusive, in many cases and when it comes to chain or 2 seconds faster and "more powerful" saws, it doesn't quite work that way in the real world.

When you consider that running .404 chain of any length on most any saw size will only (potentially) slow the cut times down a few seconds, yet in semi-chisel for the last so much longer, you will not see more production from 3/8" chain. Because you will never make up the loss of minutes in sharpening times with a few seconds per cut, just doesn't happen.

Its the same concept with Chisel chain versus Semi-Chisel chain and in many cases of dirty wood, 3/8" versus .404. For racing the fastest setup would be 3/8" Chisel chain, but for production .404 Semi-Chisel. With 3/8" Chisel chain you could go 30 minutes before needing to be sharpened ............... with .404 semi chisel you could go 4 hours. If Joe Blow was to put up a video of cookie cutting, it will clearly show that 3/8" Chisel chain is clearly faster at cookie cutting and bamm, every homeowner in the nation is clammering to get it, when to prove that .404 Semi Chisel ........ or 3/8" Semi-Chisel for that matter, is really the King at wood cutting production you would have to follow the cutter around for several hours or days and weeks to show that he is sharpening way, way less, therefore wasting less chain, therefore going through less chain, therefore ordering less chain, to the point that there isn't any place that semi-chisel isn't more practical and efficient, once you get past that cookie cutting loss of a couple of seconds.

Now go to he opposite side of the racing spectrum again from Semi Chisel ................. Square Filed Chisel, faster sure, more wood cut for the effort .............. not likely. If you add up the time that the typical Square Filed Chain user spends messing around with it, they can't even see the Semi-Chisel user over the piles of wood that the semi has cut, LOL. Not to mention the knee jerk reaction of Square Filed users to go buy a $1,000 chain grinder and play with their chain every night at home, while that might be fun for some, and there isn't anything wrong with that, its not faster wood cutting production for the effort involved, its just faster cookie cutting times ................ big difference.


Those that talk about racing or a few seconds here and there, and then wood cutting production in the chainsaw world simply don't understand what true production is all about and how to get there. Thats the problem with declaring a 2 seconds cookie cutting saw that gets horrible fuel mileage the winner and the fastest, when it doesn't necessarily work that way. It sure looks good on the stopwatch, but its just the fastest at cookie cutting, but due to poor efficiency it might not be the fastest at wood cutting production, again as I say many times, "Seconds faster and minutes slower".

The same philosophy goes for these "I cut firewood, which should I buy 90cc or 70cc?" threads ............... first of all most of these people are noobs and aren't pro loggers, if they were they would already know the answer to the question, and that is, they will cut more wood, much more easily with a 70cc saw, not the 2 second faster 90cc saw which weighs and handles like a brick irregardless of the manufacturer. The problem is "advisors" on these types of threads generally get all caught up in testicles and horsepower and a few seconds here and there, and its never about what saw will actually get more work completed for the effort of operating it, and in many or most cases its the smaller saws, as they are in many cases more efficient or in most if not all cases they allow the user/human to be more efficient, which is the whole key to higher production.

My experience and opinion,

Sam

On the Stihl bar note - I don't want to deal with adapters and that funk. That's just as much - if not more - work and $$ because I'd have to pay someone to make the adapters for me. I can replace the nose on a saw and just sell the 3/8 nose to someone else when needed.

I like the idea of setting out for the day with maybe a couple of loops of .404 semi and getting a large amount of wood cut without farting around with anything other than a bottle of water and a gas can. It's easy enough to plop a different bar/rim/chain setup on the saw if I want to go cut cookies at a GTG or something for fun - as that's likely the only time/place I'll actually cut cookies. I don't do saw mod comparisons, have a hard enough time recording a video let alone posting one to YouTube, and certainly don't time anything I do. The fact that you say .404 semi will last a lot longer than 3/8 semi in a firewood production scenario just confirms what I want to do. When I do most of my cutting it's to help out friends and family getting their firewood ready, or to clean out some trees from an area to open it up a bit. I don't care about speed in those instances. (The saw mods and increased HP & RPM will take care of any speed issues) :msp_thumbsup:
 
I haven't seen one that fits the small spline. I haven't even been able to find a bar that comes 20" in .404 :msp_mad: I'm finding I need to buy a .063 3/8 bar and swap the nose on it. The shortest I've found otherwise is 32"

I think when I get the saw back from Eric it will be strong enough to support the .404 :hmm3grin2orange:

If you have an adapter, you can run the various Stihl bars that come in 20",21" - 24" in 404. I think Baileys had them in stock before they stopped advertising them. Adapters are cheap.
 
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