Saw chain recomendations

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Mr Goodwrench

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Looks like I'm going to break down and buy some new bars and chains :cry:
Been running Oregon chisel chains but I see alot of new choices to pick from.
Been reading here for awile about the debates between Oregon nd Stihll and I dont want to start any p$$sing matches with anyone, like to just have some thoughts and opinions please. Thanks.

Poulan 4000
Poulan 3700
Poulan 3400
Poulan 245A
Several poulan 25d's
Homelite super XL 12
In the midwest mostly hardwoods for firewood, not always clean but we try.
Thanks.
 
Looks like I'm going to break down and buy some new bars and chains :cry:
Been running Oregon chisel chains but I see alot of new choices to pick from.
Been reading here for awile about the debates between Oregon nd Stihll and I dont want to start any p$$sing matches with anyone, like to just have some thoughts and opinions please. Thanks.

Poulan 4000
Poulan 3700
Poulan 3400
Poulan 245A
Several poulan 25d's
Homelite super XL 12
In the midwest mostly hardwoods for firewood, not always clean but we try.
Thanks.
I use Oregon and Carleton. I've had pretty good luck. I cut hardwood almost exclusively (a little Popple).
 
Get the Bailey's Woodsman Pro (Carlton) If you order several bars and chains, even with shipping you can't beat their price. I like Carlton, almost as good as Stihl, lots cheaper and easier to file.
 
Vote for Carlton

I like Carlton chain and have used it for over 25 years. I have tried a few others but in my opinion the Stihl chains are more difficult to file, not because they are hard but because they are different than the Carlton I am used to.

If you get Carlton chain, be sure to get the File-O-Plate. I think it is a really easy tool to use and gives excellent results. My first File-O-Plate has been in use for more than 25 years and is still first rate. If you don't lose one it will last a life time.

Does anyone know if the Carlton File-O-Plate works with the Woodsman Pro chain?

Mark
 
I have used Laser Chipper, Semi Chisel, and Chisel Chains (I think someone told me a while back that Windsor made them, but don't quote me), Oregon, Windsor, and I have also used Carlton's
A-1 x 3/8 Pitch x 0.050 Gauge x 60 Links Semi Chisel Chains.
I like how the Carlton Cuts, and keeps an edge a little bit longer, between Sharpenings. I mostly cut Ash, and Soft Maple, that I skid out of the Bush, and they get kind of Dirty, while I skid them out, with my Tractor.
I also found that the Carlton Chains are a little bit cheaper. The last Chains I have ordered are Carlton's A-1 x 3/8 Pitch x 0.050 Gauge x 66 Links Semi Chesil Chains for $16.93 each.
It also depends on what you want the Chains for, what type of wood you are cutting, and the Conditions of the wood you are Cutting. Is it Skidded, or cut where the tree drops. What I like to do, is get the best price, and go from there.
I have used Oregon, Windsor, and GB Bars. I have (2) Windsor 16" Bars, one was bought 40 years ago with my Mac 10-10 Automatic, and the other one was bought 35 years ago, with my Pro Mac 60, and they were the Original Guide Bars when the Saws were bought by my Great Uncle. Both have had the Sprocket Nose replaced once each, and have cut a ton of Fire Wood.
The Oregon I have on my Mac 1-10, and my Step Sons
Pro Mac 10-10, are laminated Bars, and they are a lot cheaper than the Pro Bars.
Now what I have found about Bars, is How you use, and Look After the Bars. Also a lot is how well you sharpen your Chain. I've seen guys sharpen their Chains Free Hand, and Think that they are doing a Great Job of Sharpening them, and doing a Pi$$ Poor Job of it, and wind up with one side with a different Pitch and Angle of the Cutter of one side then the other, causing the Chain to lean heavily to one side of the Bar, and wearing down one Rail faster than the Other. A properly Sharpen Chain, will prolong life to your Bar.
Never take the Bar off the Chain Saw, and Clean the Burs off the Edges of Rails of the Bar. Never check to see if the Bar is Square, and True. Never Clean out the Trough of the Bar, where the Driver Tangs run in. Never turn the Bar over in between Sharpenings, for even Wear of the Top, and Bottom of the Bar. All big factors in giving a Bar, and Bottom of the Connecting Links of the Chain a longer wear life, for both Components.
All factors that needed to be looked at prior to buying. Do you cut Professionally, Cut Fire Wood for your Self, and to sell the odd Cord of wood? If for Occasional Use, all you need is a Laminated Bar, with a Sprocket Nose.
I mainly use my Saws to cut Fire Wood for myself, and sell the Odd Cord of Fire Wood. It all depends on all these Factors like I have tried to explain, that you need to judge accordingly before you undertake before you buy any Chains, or Bars. If you cut in Dirty conditions like I do, Semi Chesil is what you should look at. If your wood is clean when you are cutting, Chisel should be OK. I've used all three, and I prefer Semi Chesil Chains, but this is my opinion. I hope this helps you out. Good Luck. Bruce.
 
...A properly Sharpen Chain, will prolong life to your Bar.
Never take the Bar off the Chain Saw, and Clean the Burs off the Edges of Rails of the Bar. Never check to see if the Bar is Square, and True. Never Clean out the Trough of the Bar, where the Driver Tangs run in. Never turn the Bar over in between Sharpenings, for even Wear of the Top, and Bottom of the Bar. All big factors in giving a Bar, and Bottom of the Connecting Links of the Chain a longer wear life, for both Components... I hope this helps you out. Good Luck. Bruce.

Bruce

please elaborate a little more on why you recommend:

- not flipping bar over between sharpening
- not trueing upp or squaring up bar rails
- not cleaning out the bar trough

Thanks,

JQ
 
Hey Bruce, Laser used to be Windsor but has switched to Carlton. That is what I usually run when I am back home in PA, cutterschoice is a short drive into town.

I like Carlton, but I am pretty impressed with the Oregon LGX. I run whatever I can find the cheapest. Carlton has a longer top plate, so presumably it will last longer, but it depends on conditions.
 
Stihl all the way. Ive tried Oregon chains in the past and they dont stay sharp as long as do Stihl chains and they stretch a lot more.
Stihl chain, Stihl bar and Stihl powerhead. IMO, thats the only way to go.
 
Most here know my opinion.

What would be nice to hear about, with so much interest in chain this year. (nice brake from the usall 'bar oil' threads we see about now)

Is someone, the newer and greener the better, one saw one bar preferred.

Buy a loop of WP (Carlton) Oregon and Stihl.

Buy the 3 loops in the most comparable cutter they could get and offer there unbiased opinion.

Someone take this idea and run with it, make sure to supply your self with some good new files or I can tell you right now Stihl chain will fall back on your list.
 
Hey Bruce, Laser used to be Windsor but has switched to Carlton. That is what I usually run when I am back home in PA, cutterschoice is a short drive into town.

I like Carlton, but I am pretty impressed with the Oregon LGX. I run whatever I can find the cheapest. Carlton has a longer top plate, so presumably it will last longer, but it depends on conditions.

I have used one current Windsor chain (.050, 56DL, .325, semi-chisel) - pure junk, and even came with one unground cutter - easy fix, as it was really soft and easy to file...........:censored:

No wonder it lost the edge pretty soon.....
 
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Hey Bruce, Laser used to be Windsor but has switched to Carlton. That is what I usually run when I am back home in PA, cutterschoice is a short drive into town.

My new Husky 372XP came with a Laser chain on it. The chain is a Oregon 73 LG /LGX with Laser stamped on it. It even has the anti-vibe arrow between the heel and toe of the cutter and the chasis is definately Oregon with the oil-feed channelled tie straps. But the chrome on the whole cutter looks different from regular Oregon chain, almost grainy and appears a thicker coating of chrome. The reason I figured this was because I went 2 full days cutting in clean wood and didn't have to touch it up with a file it just kept on cutting without losing its edge. Did Oregon add a better coating for Laser, I don't know.
All this talk about Stihl holding a better edge then Oregon chain has been talked about for years. Through my experience the reason is Stihl has a heavier thicker cutter, most filers even people using a 7/32 style stone don't file down into the Stihls gullet as deep as they would into the thinner Oregon gullet. Deeper into the gullet puts more hook into the side plate thus making the cutting edge on the top plate thinner which in turn loses its edge faster. Free hand filing is an art and takes alot of practice but don't use one filing technique on two different chains and compare edge holding capabilities. Oregon has proven with a thinner cutter you have more chip clearance and better chip flow, with less chain weight resulting in higher chain speed and lower bar rail wear. Only they can make a fullsized 3/8 chain as light as it is because of their superior metallurgy.
Stretching problems? Don't put so much hook into the Oregon chain which causes excessive stress on the chasis because you are so used to heavy handed filing thick Stihl chain. And finally I can buy a 100 foot roll of Oregon 72 LGX chain from Baileys for under $300. At my local Stihl dealer a 100 foot roll of 33 RS would cost me $600 plus. Now this is a no brainer!!
 
.... My new Husky 372XP came with a Laser chain on it. The chain is a Oregon 73 LG /LGX with Laser stamped on it. It even has the anti-vibe arrow between the heel and toe of the cutter and the chasis is definately Oregon with the oil-feed channelled tie straps. But the chrome on the whole cutter looks different from regular Oregon chain, almost grainy and appears a thicker coating of chrome. The reason I figured this was because I went 2 full days cutting in clean wood and didn't have to touch it up with a file it just kept on cutting without losing its edge. Did Oregon add a better coating for Laser, I don't know. ....


Sounds like LGX (not LG) to me......
 
Sounds like LGX (not LG) to me......

Sorry to complicate things here when I said 73 LG/LGX. As I mentioned in my post #16, My new Husky 372XP came with a Laser chain on it. But I could see it was an Oregon chain with Laser stamped on it. I know the LGX came out only a few years back with a new blue color and new grind angles.This Laser chain is all silver color like the old LG and it does have the anti-vibe arrow on the cutter [both LG/ LGX have the arrow.] And it does have the Lubri-link tie straps. But I'm thinking maybe this is old LG stock or maybe new LGX with the extra MultiCut chrome on it. I know the MultiCut is only available in LPX, but anything is possible if Oregon builds a special order chain for someone like Laser and put on a big name saw like Husqvarna.Also things are done a little different at Oregon Canada then they are at Oregon USA.
Speaking of blue colored cutters, I ran Oregon 72 CLX [square ground chisel,guard depth gauge] back in the 1980s and it was blue. And in the 1970s I had some 1/2 inch Oregon chisel bit chain and it too was blue. Nothing new.
 
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