.325 chain VS X-CUT Husqvarna

[Gabriel1982]

Hello everyone! Today I cut some 20" inch hardwood still green/wet. I was impressed first logs ,but half way the makita EA6100P began to bog down when buried in the log. It didn't do that at the start. Turns out I'm a very "not carefull" guy. First I think I forgot to tighten well the air filter and it was a bit loose. Some air with fine dust may have been sucked in the engine/cylinder... Don't wanna think about it much...
Second problem I wasn't paying attention wich way left or right you set the oil chain bar pump to maximum... I got it the other way around and instead of "max oil" to the bar/chain I set it to minimum...
Third blunder: Logs had some mud fine yellowish on the bark. I cleaned some but got bored and just went straight through them all.
Consequences? After one gas tank finnished the chain didn't Cut as good as before! Since I'm really new to chainsaws and sharpening any chain ,I spent a lot of time figuring out this oregon file stuff ,25 degrees angle ,etc... Got it sharp (I think) in the end ,but am too tired to try anything...
Was wondering if this "normal" Oregon .325 chain goes to dumpster (although I barely used it) what would be an even better chain for this type of bar? .325 , 45cm long .
Found out Husqvarna makes one X-CUT chain, haven't found out if it's also made in the size for this Makita.
Anyone used a .325 Husqvarna X-CUT chain? Is it better, cuts faster ,stays sharper for longer time?
Thank you all!
Cheers
Found this picture of chains types wich is interesting indeed!
I would love a full-house X-Cut chain

 

[irhunter]

Maybe post a pic of your chain after you have sharpened it.

Many find, in dirty wood, a semi-chisel chain holds its edge longer than a similar full-chisel chain.

Roy

 

[Franny K]

First , oh well
Second, 4 positions, pay attention to whether the adjuster screw moves in or out. Out is more oil.

Xcut is likely Husqvarna trademark. Sp33g is their NK.325 product. Likely others to come. Two 3/8 xcut now .050, .058

 

[Gabriel1982]

Maybe post a pic of your chain after you have sharpened it.

Many find, in dirty wood, a semi-chisel chain holds its edge longer than a similar full-chisel chain.

Roy

Here you go, several pics. It wasn't that dirty but it was some dry mudd... After all they're logs from deep in forest...
I'll take more photos tommorow in normal light maybe sunny.
By finger they definitely feel sharper then before I started .
Maybe I got it right the first try.
I'm usually slow to "process"/understand thingd but when I get it, it's there forever... I surprised a friend with telling him what we did one evening about 16 years ago...
Slow to "get it" and lots of memory from way back,up to certain days...
P.s. it's a Dolmar chain. Seemed to focus better when I took pictures...

 

[Gabriel1982]

First , oh well
Second, 4 positions, pay attention to whether the adjuster screw moves in or out. Out is more oil.

Xcut is likely Husqvarna trademark. Sp33g is their NK.325 product. Likely others to come. Two 3/8 xcut now .050, .058

Next time I'll triple check everything. Was in a hurry like a kid at Christmas. Couldn't wait to see how it cuts 50 cm diameter logs(one was even bigger).
It's third gas tank I use. Didn't really had time for "playin around" with the chainsaw... I knew about that oil adjuster ,think it was at full oil but in my "hurry up boy" I mistake it for minimum,and changed it the other way around...
Considering how rarely I use it(twice per year,at most 4 times) maybe she's not "that hurt"

 

[Gabriel1982]

Couldn'y resist "temptation" and removed the muffler. Cylinder seems ,how can I say this politely "scored". But I don't have any experience with 2 stroke engines, to me and my nail that wouldn't even "register" or feel if I ever get inside the cylinder. Piston and RING(yes,just one) seem like new! After all I think it has about 7 hours at most of engine runtime! And I "soaked it" in synthetic Motul 2T 800 offroad... Even in the cylinder now there was some red "oily stuff"... Didn't expect to see that sloshed around by the piston
And since the muffler is off ,why do some makita owners do "muffler mods"? Seems fine to me. Visually and while running!
Well, if there any EXPERTS out there in 2 stroke engines and Makita,please feel free to give it a "verdict". I'll be reasemble the thing later today or tommorow!
Thank you

 

[telecasterfool]

Unfortunately for those new to saws, there is a lot to learn to keep a saw cutting at its best. The most important one is a sharp chain. The second is the fuel/carburetor settings. Running a dull chain can damage your saw. Extreme lean settings can as well. You did the right thing to stop and sharpen. Check your chain as soon as you notice performance drop - you're probably dull. Remember any dirt will dull a saw immediately. Also, there may be rocks or steel embedded in trees. Finally, saws will need to be tuned as they "break in" and the compression rises and rings seat. Take your saw back to where you got it, or a small engine shop and have them tune it. Keep reading on this site, there is a lot to learn. The chain you have is fine, just keep it sharp. Sharpen it so it looks like one that just came out of the box. Learn how to set raker height. Good luck!

 

[Gabriel1982]

Unfortunately for those new to saws, there is a lot to learn to keep a saw cutting at its best. The most important one is a sharp chain. The second is the fuel/carburetor settings. Running a dull chain can damage your saw. Extreme lean settings can as well. You did the right thing to stop and sharpen. Check your chain as soon as you notice performance drop - you're probably dull. Remember any dirt will dull a saw immediately. Also, there may be rocks or steel embedded in trees. Finally, saws will need to be tuned as they "break in" and the compression rises and rings seat. Take your saw back to where you got it, or a small engine shop and have them tune it. Keep reading on this site, there is a lot to learn. The chain you have is fine, just keep it sharp. Sharpen it so it looks like one that just came out of the box. Learn how to set raker height. Good luck!

I understood everything you wrote but for tunning is gonna be a problem because I ordered online the saw from a city in the East of Romania near the border with Moldova, about 243 kms from me. I don't really have the time to make this trip and get it tuned in that shop! I could either send it to them by courier or find a shop here where I live ,in this small town of 35000 people wich has only one chainsaw shop: Stihl...
I ordered online a 19mm socket special for spark plugs since I really could not find one here locally,and the "old one" included in the box with the chainsaw deformed when I tried to remove the spark plug to check the distance recommended in the manual of 0.5mm at the tip/electrode! A few things for sharpening correctly the chain ,but didn't found a flat file to finnish the job. Will have to look better for a good one.
At least there are individuals around here on this forum willing to help out!

 

[telecasterfool]

The stuff you have is a good starting point for sharpening. Sounds like you will have to learn to tune by ear. There are a lot of videos on this on youtube. It takes some time to be really good at, but, it is easy to get started. When in doubt, keep the settings rich.

 

[copen]

I understood everything you wrote but for tunning is gonna be a problem because I ordered online the saw from a city in the East of Romania near the border with Moldova, about 243 kms from me. I don't really have the time to make this trip and get it tuned in that shop! I could either send it to them by courier or find a shop here where I live ,in this small town of 35000 people wich has only one chainsaw shop: Stihl...
I ordered online a 19mm socket special for spark plugs since I really could not find one here locally,and the "old one" included in the box with the chainsaw deformed when I tried to remove the spark plug to check the distance recommended in the manual of 0.5mm at the tip/electrode! A few things for sharpening correctly the chain ,but didn't found a flat file to finnish the job. Will have to look better for a good one.
At least there are individuals around here on this forum willing to help out!

Maybe look into the Pferd CS-X. The Stihl version is made by Pferd, so either or.

 

[Gabriel1982]

Hello everyone. I've done some more cutting wood today for a friend in need. I think I've sharpened too well the chain. It just went through 10-15 inch(25-35 cm) diameter wood like it was butter! Very impressed. And it didn't dull at all after about 1 hour of cutting! I'll sharpen the chain lightly again tommorow. I'm too tired now ,but by the feel ,the chainsaw was cutting like when I started! I'm at fuel tank burned no.4! Will try to cut as many wood to break in the chainsaw sooner! I'm very pleased how it runs/cuts wood so far!
Will take photos before and after sharpening the chain.

 

[Gabriel1982]

Yesterday I've cut a s***load of wood hard essence in big 50-60 cm diameter logs. About 4 cubic meter and the Makita EA6100P worked amazingly good. And the chain stayed sharp for some time. (Gave it a few files in the middle of the cutting time just to be "happy" with the cutting time) But it wasn't in specs when measured with the depth gauge,good thing I checked it before I started. A lot of work to get every tooth right but the result impressed quite a few individuals. It went through hard wood like hot knife through butter. The only problem I encounter was the chain bar oiling holes getting jammed with small wood chips ,and having to frequently clean/remove bar and chain or to check the "oil spary" when revved on a log bark.
Used up about 2.5- 3 liters of gasoline for whole 4 cubic meters of wood. Overall I'm happy with this .325 chain AS IS but would like to at least try a X-CUT chain . if it cuts better/faster will buy/use it in the long term! Hope the sharpening method is not that different.
I didn't had time for photos, while cutting but will take shot of the wood pile allready cut