Convert 1989 Husky 50 to 55 - Aftermarket parts? Compare old saws to new?

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WoodLoon

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I need a new piston and cylinder for my 1980 50 Anniversary Special saw. In another post, several suggested converting the saw to a 55. Roanoker494 gave a freaking amazing reply complete with part diagrams that had necessary parts circled. [Thank you Roanoker 494!] Now I need to learn more! I discover new questions at almost every turn.

So that means the choice is $78 or $225. Is aftermarket OK for a homeowner? The saw would only be used for more than an hour a day a few times a year, and would not get used at all most weeks. When it did get pushed would be taking down or clearing 1 or 2 trees (I live in New England - mostly pine, maple, oak, locust).

<><> Second, the choke to the 51 style choke. The current choke is pretty poor, but the new parts required include a carb - it seems like that means the parts will be over $60, which seems like too much. Or do you disagree?

<><> Third, Roanoker494 listed the parts required to upgrade to air injection. I have not been able to find the price for a new heat shield & mounting plate for carb, air injection version - 503 76 48-01 (my existing shield appears perfect).

<><> Fourth, is there any better place than my local Husky dealer to get parts like air filter (dirty but I haven't tried cleaning it yet - use carb cleaner?) or rubber carb sleeve (mine is still soft with no ragged edges)?

<><> Fifth, I have never used a compression release. Should I add one, especially if I go aftermarket and one is included in the kit?

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CONCLUSION: I think that using OEM parts + upgrading the choke + adding air injection would cost me $300-350. That seems like a lot. Or am I missing the point? Please educate me: How does the 1989 50 (soon to be a 55) compare to today's Husky saws? How does it compare to a new 460 ($460)? By the way, do you pros consider the smallest XP at $500 a better choice than the 460? (I can't afford $500 but I am very interested in your opinion.)

Yeah, yeah. Blah, blah, blah. Sorry I ask so many Q's, sorry it takes me so many words... And thanks!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Upgrade a 50 to 55 - aftermarket parts OK?

Option # 1 - I posted about my 1985 Husky 50 Special with a ruined piston and some minor damage to the cylinder (FWIW, I showed it to my local Husky dealer - he said I might try a new piston and see if it worked OK, he didn't think the damage to the cylinder was too bad). That's option #1.

But a couple of you suggested upgrading to a 55 if I rebuild. And Roanoake494, bless his heart, gave a list of parts he would suggest -
  • First, in addition to the piston & cylinder, he suggested I should get a new carb mount/shield (I don't know the correct term), the rubber collars for the carb and something next to it, and gaskets.
    • I ask this with some trepidation - I appreciate expert advice but I still need to save money when I can. My original sheld seems perfect and rubber connector for the carb is still soft with no ragged edges. Is it OK to reuse them? Or is that foolish?
  • Then he gave a list of parts to upgrade the choke to the newer 51 style.
    • The current choke is pretty poor, but the new parts required include a carb - it seems like that means the parts will be well over $60, which seems like too much. Or do you disagree?
  • And then he presented a list of parts if I wanted to upgrade to air injection.
    • I don't know whether air injection is a significant advantage or not. It looks like it would require a new carb mount/sheild and a couple gaskets (I think that's what they are) - Is this something I should definitely do?

And then I come to the BIG question - how good are the aftermarket parts out there? A cylinder & piston with gaskets would cost (as well as I've been able to find):

Is it reasonable to use aftermarket parts, in your judgement?

Also, should I add a compression release? I've never used one.

Is there any particularly good place (better than my local dealer) to buy Husqvarna parts?

Thank you!
 
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Is there something "wrong" with this thread?

I am new here. I like the forum. I've learned a lot by reading and I got amazing responses to my first post, which posted immediately, as far as I could tell. This thread didn't appear until about 20 hours after I posted, so it first appeared on page 3 of the "Chainsaw" forum. I, for one, only check the first page of postings when I visit a forum often.

Did I break some rule by mentioning "Bailey's", using the word "aftermarket," or including a link to eBay? I have not received a reply for this question from a moderator, and I found several other similar questions ("why didn't my post appear?") that didn't get a response. Please clue me in!

I recognize I am not a pro like most of you, but my questions are serious and I think they are in keeping with some of the questions I read. Thanks for reading. Special thanks for responses, to this question or the questions in the #1 post in this thread.
 
Relax. You'll get some more responses.

While Roanoaker provided quite a roadmap for going the major upgrade route, I'd throw a Meteor piston in the jug you have and take your chances while minimizing your expense. A couple pics of the jug would surely get some "yay or nay" responses as well.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Poge
 
don't get you panties in a wad, after market parts are fine. we all use them here. golf pistons are good. as for your existing parts, if they are in good condition, reuse them. if any of the rubber parts are cracked get new.
compression release is not needed. hell i don't use the one i have on my 95cc saw, do not need one on a 50 cc saw.
 
sheesh! some people must just think they are way too important to wait for a reply;)
you could always use a ttt to get a response. could just be the right person hasen't seen it yet. we have other stuff to do in our lives that may be more important to us than your saw. chill:rock:
look here. i haven't updated yet, however the top end is turning out to be a good runner for this saw.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/177823.htm

i'll be adding more info this weekend. stay tuned.:jester:
 
I just did the exact same project. Acid washed the cylinder, new NWP piston from Baileys, carb rebuild. Runs great but is now prone to flood on a hot restart. Still sorting that out.

Roanoker points out the common weak points of this saw and is right. But...... If your saw holds vacuum and passes leak test you may not NEED all those parts. Finding the cause of the failure/preventing a repeat is key though.

I am ok with the stock choke/high idle, been running it for 23 years it is not as convenient as the later ones.
 
198141d1315343750-202-800-jpg


198142d1315343750-202-640-jpg

I just salvaged a 51 cylinder in worse condition than yours. Clean yours up, buy an aftermarket piston kit, figure out why it went lean in the first place, correct that, don't look back after spending maybe 50 or 60 bux -- tops.

You can find plenty of help here -- with a minor adjustment in the sense of urgency accompanying your detailed request for advice that would otherwise be costing you anywhere between $45 and $125 an hour.

Jes be coo, mang. You'll get fixed up.

Poge
 
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WoodLoon said:
I am new here. I like the forum. I've learned a lot by reading and I got amazing responses to my first post, which posted immediately, as far as I could tell. This thread didn't appear until about 20 hours after I posted, so it first appeared on page 3 of the "Chainsaw" forum. I, for one, only check the first page of postings when I visit a forum often.

Did I break some rule by mentioning "Bailey's", using the word "aftermarket," or including a link to eBay? I have not received a reply for this question from a moderator, and I found several other similar questions ("why didn't my post appear?") that didn't get a response. Please clue me in!

I recognize I am not a pro like most of you, but my questions are serious and I think they are in keeping with some of the questions I read. Thanks for reading. Special thanks for responses, to this question or the questions in the #1 post in this thread.
Click to expand...

Yep, please refrain from linking to non sponsors. I edited all that out and merged your two threads on this subject for you so that hopefully you will get your answers.
 
Which air filter? What carb kit?

My saw is a 1989 50 Special, so it has, according to you experts, the 51 air filter? I don't see any pictures at Bailey's that look like what I have. Would this be a dealer item?
View attachment 198153
View attachment 198154

And, just to prove my ignorance, what type carb kit should I get? I figure it will be good to have on hand.

I waiting for a response from the eBay seller for the brand of his piston and cylinder ($78 shipped including gasket set), but it sounds like there is a lot of support for the NWP and Meteor brands.
 
That is the 50 series filter. The 51 is a completely different design. There is no reason to change the carb or intake tract on a 50.
The filters are available. The design works fine, I've owned three 50's, one of which was the anniversary edition that you have...it is in fact a 51 displacement, but it is NOT a 51 series saw. It was without a doubt my favorite saw of all I've owned. My nephew uses it now...he loves it as well. Its had only a new piston and ring in it's countless years of use.
 
edit...I've checked my records which I keep due to advanced OCD...and found that the Special 50 only had a piston ring replaced in its many years of service.
As I recall, it was a coated ring. Part #HUS 503289011
Air filter - HUS 501762901
Carb kit - STE 615245

Other parts I've ordered for other 50's I've owned...
Antivibe bushings - HUS 501763902
Gaskets - HUS 501770002/503162103/503162104...most likely carb,exhaust and base
Fuel tank vent - HUS 501873101
Deflector - HUS 502202101...plastic plate under carb I believe
Impulse pipe - HUS 505310751...rubber boot as I recall
Piston ring for the non 'Special' 50 - HUS 503289010

Yeah...OCD sux.

Now leave these fine folks alone and go fix your saw.
 
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WoodLoon said:
I waiting for a response from the eBay seller for the brand of his piston and cylinder ($78 shipped including gasket set), but it sounds like there is a lot of support for the NWP and Meteor brands.
Click to expand...

You don't need a cyclinder from what I see in the pictures. Clean up the one you have with the acid treatment described in many threads and save yourself some money while learning something at the same time. As I mentioned, I just cleaned one up that was worse than yours and plan to run it like I stole it.

And as Cord Arrow so eloquently stated, now leave us alone and go fix your saw!!!:msp_biggrin:

PM me with your email address and I can hook you up with a shop manual for the 50 Series if someone already hasn't.

Poge
 

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