Oh boy, can of worms here
What gas, where are you? Ethanol in your area? Why run 92 if you don't have too? KISS - if the saw runs good on lesser grade, the fuel is simpler and cleaner. 92 has additives to delay flame propagation (Anti-knock). Those additives can mess with your oil choice and so can ethanol.
So air cooled two strokes biggest problems is top ring heat. The rings build carbon and sludge in the lands and stick. Bingo, loss of compression. Enough that hard carbon and flame can scorch a ring land, then we are on the way to scoring and a trashed P&C. Once you start depositing aluminum on the bore, it's only a matter of time till you toss the P&C.
Synthetics are great at resisting heat. If it works with your gas, good. If not, well you'll find out. BUT, synthetics are bad at gap filling and have poor surface tension so they don't stay on bearings and such as well as Dino oil - it's called drain-off and it's a well documented phenomena.
To get oils that will withstand the heat, they must either be USA API TC rated, or Euro EG-D rated. I like Motul 710, but there are a LOT of good oils out there - even Valvoline makes an EG-D rated two stroke oil that works well and is much cheaper than Ultra. I blend the Motul 75%/25% with dino oil. Just a touch of dino will stay on the bearings if you store your saws for more than a few days before being run. The bigger fraction of synthetic will keep the rings free and wet in the lands so they can do their job and everyone's happy
Go to your big auto parts chains and look for 2T oils. If they are rated EG-D, they are in the same neighborhood as Ultra. If you can't find them around, stick with good saw brand oils.
How do I know this stuff, been building 2 strokes for over 40 years - dirt bikes & boats (race), saws, pumps, you name it. Never had an oil related failure except on running dino oil too lean and the motor too hot. Even synthetics run at 40:1 in my world. Oil is so much cheaper than a motor or down time when you need to be cuttin :bang:
