using a 1/8" wheel in a pinch for sharpening some 3/8 chains

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bama

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I bought a 511a at an auction and finally got it setup now. I threw on the 3/8 wheel and it vibrates, so I ordered a new one. In the meantime, a friend of my dad's brought over 6 beat up chains asking if I would sharpen them. Can I use the 1/8 wheel to get them done so he can cut later this week and then resharpen them with the 3/8 next time? If I can, can I use the same angles? I won't get the new wheel until January and he has his son coming later in the week to help cut up his pile. Of course, he waited until he needs the wood to get cutting.
 
It may not be the ideal situation, but do what you gotta do to get by. Unless you would rather hand file. :msp_wink:
 
It may not be the ideal situation, but do what you gotta do to get by. Unless you would rather hand file. :msp_wink:


Maybe someday, I will hand file, but these will need a lot of material taken off. the corners are bent in for about 1/8-3/16" on some of the teeth. dirty wood and he is using chisel chain. I have the same wood in my backyard. We bought it for $70 a cord in 8' lengths, all oak. BUT, it must have been skidded for a 1/2 mile. Stuff is full of dirt and small rocks. I just want to know if I can switch back when I get the new wheel or will I have to stay with the 1/8. Never tried the smaller wheel on 3/8 chain before.
 
I know some are successful with it, but I've not been able to get results I care for with my 1/8 inch wheel with full sized 3/8. Wish I could because I pretty much leave the 1/8 on my round grinder to sharpend 1/4, .325 and 3/8 lp.

99 percent of my use of 3/8 is square, though, and I have a separate grinder for that.
 
And make sure to get deep enough so the side of the wheel hits the face of the tooth, I've been using a 1/8 wheel for 30 years for everything but don't hand file. A file might not fit the gullet to good after I'm done. Steve
 
18" wheel for 38" chain

I've read where you can use a 1/8" wheel for a 3/8" chain...but 3/16" is what you want for a 3/8" chain. Sounds like you have to do something now though, before your 3/8" wheel gets there. Try ONE chain...clean up the cutters as best you can, touch them up w/a hand file when done, check the rakers for correct depth, then try the saw in some wood. If it's ok, keep going...You might get by...Then touch them up w/the 3/16" wheel when you get it. Might get them through the few days they have to cut. If the chains really need a cleaning up it might not hurt them much and let them get to work for now.
 
I've read where you can use a 1/8" wheel for a 3/8" chain...but 3/16" is what you want for a 3/8" chain. Sounds like you have to do something now though, before your 3/8" wheel gets there. Try ONE chain...clean up the cutters as best you can, touch them up w/a hand file when done, check the rakers for correct depth, then try the saw in some wood. If it's ok, keep going...You might get by...Then touch them up w/the 3/16" wheel when you get it. Might get them through the few days they have to cut. If the chains really need a cleaning up it might not hurt them much and let them get to work for now.

At least I have the saw so I can test it out.
 
The 1/8" wheel will take off the damaged material; you will just end up with a slightly different cutter profile. That is, the shape of the hook will be different, and the side plate edge will be different. I am sure that the chain will still cut, assuming that the depth gauges are set after the cutter material is removed, but it might not cut as well.

One option might be to grind back the chains with the 1/8 inch wheels to remove the damaged cutters, then follow up with just a few strokes of the correct sized file to get the proper cutter shape.

But back to your original question, if you grind these chains now with the 1/8" wheel and later with a 3/16" wheel it will be the same as grinding any other heavily used chain. The only problem with going back and forth between different sized wheels, different angles, etc., is that it takes a little bit longer, and uses up a little more cutter life, than when just 'touching up' a chain that was filed/ground the exact same way the last time.

Philbert
 
The 1/8" wheel will take off the damaged material; you will just end up with a slightly different cutter profile. That is, the shape of the hook will be different, and the side plate edge will be different. I am sure that the chain will still cut, assuming that the depth gauges are set after the cutter material is removed, but it might not cut as well.

One option might be to grind back the chains with the 1/8 inch wheels to remove the damaged cutters, then follow up with just a few strokes of the correct sized file to get the proper cutter shape.

But back to your original question, if you grind these chains now with the 1/8" wheel and later with a 3/16" wheel it will be the same as grinding any other heavily used chain. The only problem with going back and forth between different sized wheels, different angles, etc., is that it takes a little bit longer, and uses up a little more cutter life, than when just 'touching up' a chain that was filed/ground the exact same way the last time.

Philbert

That is what I was thinking it would do. This is going to be a one time deal. If he dulls them before I get the wheel, he is just going to have to wait. I don't have the time to spend once this week is over. I don't even have a round file, to be honest. I have the oregon 12v sharpener with the round bits. I know, I know....I need to learn to hand file. I will......eventually. I am going to use this to get by. Maybe this summer.....
 
I don't even have a round file, to be honest. I know, I know....I need to learn to hand file.

Don't be hard on yourself. There are lots of ways to sharpen a chain; you just need to find one that works for you. The file idea was just a suggestion to help you through your current situation.

The grinder is not 'automatic' either - it takes some time and practice to develop skill with it, so that you get the proper shape and don't burn the cutters. Get a good handle on one method and explore others if you have a need or interest.

Philbert
 
I bought a 511a at an auction and finally got it setup now. I threw on the 3/8 wheel and it vibrates, so I ordered a new one. In the meantime, a friend of my dad's brought over 6 beat up chains asking if I would sharpen them. Can I use the 1/8 wheel to get them done so he can cut later this week and then resharpen them with the 3/8 next time? If I can, can I use the same angles? I won't get the new wheel until January and he has his son coming later in the week to help cut up his pile. Of course, he waited until he needs the wood to get cutting.

Have you tried dressing the 3/8 wheel? It's probably out of round.

Yes you shouldn't have a problem using the 1/8 wheel. In fact, I probably should change wheels when I go between sizes of chain, however, the 1/8th wheel has been on for all sizes and they cut well. 30 degrees on the angle, and 60 degrees on

For your dirty wood, get some semi chisel chain which will hold it's edge a bit longer.
 
What about the inverse? My 1/8" wheel just exploded at work and I was halfway through a pile of 3/8"LP chain. Can I use the 3/16" wheel to get a "good enough" cutter profile? And I don't have any 3/16" or 5/32" files either.
 
I think I do a pretty decent job on the 12v, but these chains are rocked up, so it will take a lot of time and maybe a few stones to do them. I don't have a dressing wheel, but it is coming, too, along with the 3/8 wheel. I bought this 511a at an auction and for how scattered the pieces were, stuff could have been dropped/thrown. That is why I suspect the wheel. Definitely worth dressing it to see if that takes care of it. It doesn't make different sounds when I tap on it (listening for cracks).

Maybe, I would be better off using the wheel to get the ruff stuff off and then finish with the 12v? He has one semi-chisel chain as normally his cutting is not in dirty wood. Otherwise, I would get on him to order some semi-chisel.
 
Another solution for the 1/8" wheel would be to dress the radius needed for the chain on the wheel like it is 1/4" wide. Only one side of the wheel does any work. I routinely dress half of the width away on a 3/16 wheel and dress the radius on the wheel for .325 or 3/8 as needed. Dressing half the width away allows the 3-16 wheel to fit into the tooth on a .325 cutter. This also does away with the flex when grinding .325 chain.
 
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