Oh boy...so here we go

[IanB22]

I started up my new-to-me 394xp. Saw started on pull 8 or 9, but then idled and revved fine. I put the saw with a 42" bar under load, and don't you know, it cuts good for 3 to 6 seconds, and then nothing, it just bogs down. The power is there when it is reving, but then it just dies off. So, I loosened the gas cap a little bit, and it helped the saw run for an additional 3-4 seconds before bogging down and doing nothing. If I rev WOT it will hold without any load for about 15 seconds, then it just dies down until I take it off the power, then it will rev back up again and then die again. I am thinking this is an air leak problem, or not enough air, and wondering what I should look at first.

Also, I need to buy a new chain adjuster screw, somehow mine fell out? The pin that does the adjusting is there, but the threaded rod just fell out on the first use? any idea's on that one?

Lastly, as I am driving in the car, I notice more gas smell then I am used too. Come to find out the gas tank is leaking fuel (it is a dark oily brown though) up near the throttle trigger and in the handle part near the throttle. When I turn the saw over so it is upside down, it is a steady stream of fuel. Is there a seal or something in the handle? I always thought it was just one solid piece? Might be related to my first problem too?

Looking for some help here. And hopefully some simple fixes? (I can always hope right)
Ian

Ps. When it was running though, DAMNnnn so much more power than the 455 Rancher. It was cool to try and cut 4 logs at a time in a pile, rather than one at a time each!

 

[mad murdock]

Sounds like you can use a carb kit and a spark plug would not hurt, ong with a good inspection of your file line/filter and impulse line for integrity.

 

[ShaneLogs]

Sounds like you might have some varnish gas in there if it is a dark brown in color.

 

[mdavlee]

Check the carb screen for blockage.

 

[splitpost]

sounds like you have a leak in the fuel line or where it connects to the carb,that dark dirty fuel leaking from under the handle is probly just washing past years of gunge that builds in hard to get places

 

[flashhole]

Chain adjuster screw - my guess is your POS plastic nut is stripped and you lost part of the mechanism. I had the same problem. The good news is it's a cheap fix. Chain Adjusting Screw Tensioner for Husqvarna 394 XP 395 XP EPA 503467701 | eBay

Hope you get the fuel problem sorted out. When the saw is running properly it is truly impressive. Keep the chain sharp. I especially like the anti-vibe design .... smoooooooooth. I've been using mine for milling and if it gives up the ghost I will have it rebuilt.

 

[jockeydeuce]

My money's on a plugged carb inlet screen like Mdavlee said....First place I'd look with those symptoms anyway.

 

[rmh3481]

Impulse travels through the intake block, check to make sure it isnt cracked.

 

[z71mike]

My vote is crank seals. Rich enough for a decent mixture at idle, then it leans out once all the rich mixture is evacuated from the crank case when revved up.

But check that carb screen first since it's the low-hanging fruit.

 

[rupedoggy]

Cracked intake, fuel line, carb screen, crank seals, spark plug.... all good ideas for sure but have you tried to take the high speed needle out 1/4-1/2 turn yet? Mike

 

[SkippyKtm]

sounds like you have a leak in the fuel line or where it connects to the carb,that dark dirty fuel leaking from under the handle is probly just washing past years of gunge that builds in hard to get places

:agree2:
Splitpost is on the money. Sounds like your saw is starving for fuel.
Replace the fuel line and filter, flush the crud out of the fuel tank, do a carb rebuild,(especially check that inlet screen), make sure the impulse passageway isn't blocked or plugged.
Those are nice saws, you don't want that saw starving of fuel and burning up...

 

[IanB22]

Got at the saw today

Here are some photo's, I cleaned out the 'plastic' shards you see in the carb. below. I will test it at noon time, and the local dealer is going to find me a screw for the one I lost. I will hold out my verdict on his helpfullness but so far he was pretty nice on the phone. Also, he said a carb kit isn't available, but all the individual pieces are, also a brand new one is 58$. Tough to figure out the direction, but I might just break this one down, it was pretty easy to get the saw to this point. 20 minutes on the bench was all it took, and this was the first time for me.

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[nmurph]

I would bet on a hole in the line or that pink (never seen that color line bf) is collapsing. You dealer is dead wrong on the carb kit. There is no need to order it piece by piece. The whole thing is available for about $12.

 

[Saw Dr.]

That fuel filter is garbage. It sould be white. DO NOT keep trying to run the saw with that filter, or you are likely to burn it up. Not sure where that fuel line came from either, but I'm betting it does not seal in the tank properly. Your dealer is not giving you very good information. The carb kits can be had all day for $15 or less, just not from Husqvarna.

 

[blsnelling]

In addition to all the great advice already given, your tank vent too.

 

[flashhole]

So where did all the plastic shards come from? Looks like you are making good progress. That fuel filter has done its duty, time to give it a medal and retire it.

 

[IanB22]

To be honest

I am thinking the plastic shards/bits came from the pink fuel line hose. They are damn near perfect match in color, and how else do you get pink plastic bits in your carb?

I am picking up new line and my chain adjustment screw tonight. We'll see how tomorrow mornings surgery goes on the installation.
Thanks for following along. I have delayed starting the saw until the fuel filter and line are replaced.
Ian

 

[Fish]

Remove the carb and rebuild/go through it correctly.

 

[towingace]

I was thinking those "plastic shards" might be hardened chunks of varnish. Nonetheless, once you perform the above mentioned basics you should have the chips a flyin'. Good luck with her.

 

[Fish]

Playing with the fuel pump side ain't a carb rebuild, remove it and go through it correctly.........

New fuel line and filter too.

All of that crud is still in your carb, go through it correctly.