Maybe it's time

[turnkey4099]

I've been working on a 1/2 mile long row of old, big Willows the farmer wants out. My 361/28" bar looks like a toothpick next to them. Saturday I bought a 441cm/32" bar to use just for felling.

Got it home and I couldn't start it. I could pull it normally but not very many times in a row. Age is showing. Yesterday I took it back. He admitted he should have started it first and I admitted that I should have asked. He had quite a struggle getting it running. I took it home and tried it there. Had no problem starting it but it was still "warm".

Tomorrow I will give it a try 'cold'. If no go I guess it is back to the dealer for a discounted refund. I wouild have tried a cold start today but by the time I got around to it I had had 1 1/2 hours manually splitting and was out of 'oomph'.

Harry K

 

[svk]

Hope it works out. That saw should rip through the willow nicely.

 

[zogger]

Mtronic??? Ok, somethings is wrong then, because those are tied with the absolute easiest to start saws ever, tied with echo 590/600/620 series saws. The one I ran a few times was two pulls, tops, and easy pulls at that. Some sort of factory reset and tune it in the wood, etc, the computer has to learn to run, then it is good to go. Yep, that's a dealer gig and if he didn't do it, it needs to be done, then, easy peasey.

My guess is, the dealer is one of those guys who "doesn't get computers" and didn't read the manual, etc thing for those mtronic saws. There's some sort of way to initially run them, it has to be done.

Good luck, hope you get it worked out, those are sm-o-o-o-o-o-o-oth running machines!

Someone here might know the procedure, I forget now (wasn't my saw)

 

[KiwiBro]

I thought they had decomp buttons. If so and you are saying it just won't start cold without too many pulls, then have the dealer show you the calibration procedure (as a shot in the dark and as a test to see if they know of that which they sell) and see if that makes any difference. Otherwise, sorry, I haven't a clue but wish you good luck.

 

[turnkey4099]

I thought they had decomp buttons. If so and you are saying it just won't start cold without too many pulls, then have the dealer show you the calibration procedure (as a shot in the dark and as a test to see if they know of that which they sell) and see if that makes any difference. Otherwise, sorry, I haven't a clue but wish you good luck.

Yes it does have decomp. I'm hoping I can pull it without using it tho, that's the way the dealer did it and that's what my 361 is used to also. I had some trouble with the 361 flooding when I first got it and found that not using the decomp cured that.

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

Verdict is in! Lots of worry over nothing. Gave it a cold start this morning. Boot in handle, big breath and PULL. Almost gave myself a black eye it came so easily. 2nd pull and it was making noise. That thing pulls easier cold than my 361 does - both not using compression release.

Mr. 441 gets baptized tomorrow on a big one (about 36" DBH).

harry k

 

[hardpan]

Anybody around to take a picture of the big grin on your face then?

 

[zogger]

It still needs that calibration sequence to run good.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/reset-the-m-tronic.256526/#post-4796702

The five cuts are in 10-12 inch wood.

Good luckski, think you'll like it! And it should start fine with the decomp, after it has run some and been calibrated, no sense beating on your arm and shoulder and starter mechanism.

 

[turnkey4099]

It still needs that calibration sequence to run good.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/reset-the-m-tronic.256526/#post-4796702

The five cuts are in 10-12 inch wood.

Good luckski, think you'll like it! And it should start fine with the decomp, after it has run some and been calibrated, no sense beating on your arm and shoulder and starter mechanism.

Yeah, I saw that in the manual. I'll do that when the tree is on the ground. I will change my choice of tree, there is one only 12" or less right next to the big one. I'll take the little one first and learn a bit about the saw operation. It sure does sound 'mean'.

I don't know why I thought the saw would be hard to pull over, it isn't all that much bigger than the 361.

Harry K

 

[ReggieT]

Yeah, I saw that in the manual. I'll do that when the tree is on the ground. I will change my choice of tree, there is one only 12" or less right next to the big one. I'll take the little one first and learn a bit about the saw operation. It sure does sound 'mean'.

I don't know why I thought the saw would be hard to pull over, it isn't all that much bigger than the 361.

Harry K

Glad you got it going!
How about sending some pics of the willow tree carnage & ze 441 in action...it will kinda spice up things around here!

 

[Ironworker]

Awesome, glad you were able to make it work.

 

[turnkey4099]

Glad you got it going!
How about sending some pics of the willow tree carnage & ze 441 in action...it will kinda spice up things around here!

I was going to but forgot the blasted camera again. Butt end ran a bit over the reach of the 32" bar. I couldn't have gotten a clip of the fall. Saw when through so fast a camera wouldn't have been able to film it. Most of the trash in the field cleaned up today, I'll finish that in about an hour tomorrow and get some serious saw time on the log. Pic of the tree (what's left of it) tomorrow.

I noticed something today (shows how observant I am) The saw is a full wrap and came with dual dogs! Nice!!

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

Pics:

Log is about 20" at the near end, 24" back at the crotch on the main log. Limb on right about 18" full length. Cut and got almost a full load (over 1/2 cord) from that righthand limb and the main log back to the crotch.

Better idea of the size The crotch is right above that crooked spot. Log is over 30" past that and gets bigger as it approaches the stump (hidden in all that trash on the log. I might have to leave all of that as it is right in a ditch at that point and I would hve to skid the log in sections ovr the ditch. Eyeball says even a 4' section will be too bit for my 2x PU to pull.

I have those piles spaced about like that for at least a 1/4 mile. Farmer said he would be burning them "one of these springs" I rplied that he better do it soon as the county is considering banning any burn pile over 3x3'.

Harry K

 

[Marshy]

How does willow burn anyways? I have a few trees that were taken down a few miles away from me. Thought if I ever got hard up I could go ask for it. Its considered garbage wood around my area, kind of like poplar maybe wetter. Not sure how it splits... hmm.

 

[Swamp Yankee]

How does willow burn anyways? I have a few trees that were taken down a few miles away from me. Thought if I ever got hard up I could go ask for it. Its considered garbage wood around my area, kind of like poplar maybe wetter. Not sure how it splits... hmm.

Willow species may differ but,

From experience with the willow I've cut around here, I call it "Elm Lite". Same amount of work, 1/2 the BTUs.

Take Care

 

[Swamp Yankee]

Harry K,

When I had my 441CM it was pretty easy to start. The local Stihl rep gave me a tip I'll pass along, it seemed to help. When the saw gives the first sign of running out of fuel, the telltale lean burn so to speak, shut it down, and don't run the tank dry unless it's going to sit for a long time.

Other thing, the MS441CM, like most strato saws, doesn't really give the distinct pop. I found if I take my hearing protection off when cold starting it's easier to detect. Loved my MS441CM. The only reason I sold it and got the MS461 is the MS441CM wasn't offered in an Arctic configuration and the MS461 was.

When you have a chance, grab a 20 inch bar and an 8 pin sprocket. Makes a quick saw even faster. Throw a loop of square grind on as well, it's a hoot. If you don't square file no biggie you can always round file the square grind if and when it gets whacked.

Take Care

 

[savageactor7]

"Boot in handle"
That's my usual MO too. Pleased to learn that saw is working out for you.

 

[Marshy]

Elm lite lol I think I'll pass then. Is rather process tulip poplar.

 

[turnkey4099]

How does willow burn anyways? I have a few trees that were taken down a few miles away from me. Thought if I ever got hard up I could go ask for it. Its considered garbage wood around my area, kind of like poplar maybe wetter. Not sure how it splits... hmm.

Willow burns fine but it is at the bottom of the wood charts. Depends on your location if it is worth it. Out here in the middle of the Palouse, it is the ONLY wood that is available in quantity. To get better quality in any amount means a 100 mile at least round trip to the mountains or buy log truck loads. One has to feed the fire much more often but that is the only drawback I see. I heated this house 99% Willow for over 30 years. The Willow out here comes big. Grows fast, grows big, dies young. These I am working on were planted by the farmers granddad or greatgrandad back in 1908 or thereabouts.

Workability? Fantasstic! cuts easy, splits easy, dries in one season if stacked to allow air through it. Given a 30" block I will either sledge/wedge or noodle it in half and then finish with nothing but the Fiskars.

I have burned a lot of what is considered garbage wood over the years on the theory "if it's free and burns it will heat".

Bottom line is staht if better wood was available for free, I wouldn't bother with Willow...well except for my customers who are happy to pay $120/cord for it

Harry K

 

[Marshy]

When you said Elm my first thought was how bad Elm splits. If I get time I might get some of shoulder season. Thanks for the input.