Firewood Stacking Depth?

[Snap]

Am about to stack newly cut and split oak and hope to use a wood pallet base. I considered trying a round pile but there end to end to coner seems to be enough negative feedback regarding slower drying, especially in the center, as well as some stability issues that a traditional pile layout might be a better plan.

So the question is, considering that pallets are 40"x 48", whether it will dry effectively if I run two rows of splits butt to butt to effectively use the pallets. If so can the rows tough or should there be a continuous space? Obvioulsy the pile will be more stable if the rows touch, or are atleast tied together every so often.

I'm trying to get it dry in a year or so. The wood mostly from dying trees so it's currently in the high 20% moisture range.

 

[Little Al]

If you have the space to do it leave a gap in the centre of the 2 stacks on the pallet Air flow around ends /sides with top covered is your friend if you can get the moisture content twixt 16/20% your'e good to go

 

[Streblerm]

I stack all my firewood on two rows of pallets 8’ deep. I used to stack continuously but I found it is much easier to top cover if the stacks are 10’ long or so. I lace the corners and lean everything slightly toward the center. The wood dries just fine. It might dry faster in single rows but I have no problem getting the wood down to <15% moisture. Softer woods are good to go in a year, oak takes two.

 

[NSMaple1]

I double stack on pallets. The wood meets & touches in the middle. It still dries good - but I also top cover & let it sit for 2 years in a very exposed location.

Very important to also get it well off the ground - I also set my pallets on top of concrete blocks. Both to dry the wood better, and also so your pallets will last any time at all. I hate dealing with rotten pallets.

 

[sawjunky23]

I double stacked on pallets and it dried ok, I think we have all been in a similar situation where we need wood to burn and are short on time for proper drying, but it’s like smoking meat, it takes as long as it takes and nothing we do will change that. As said above Oak usually takes a couple years to season I’ve not had any ready in a year unless is was dead and void of bark when I cut it. I think if you split it small like SMALL and stack it like Lincoln logs it might help speeed it up some.

 

[Snap]

I stack all my firewood on two rows of pallets 8’ deep. I used to stack continuously but I found it is much easier to top cover if the stacks are 10’ long or so. I lace the corners and lean everything slightly toward the center. The wood dries just fine. It might dry faster in single rows but I have no problem getting the wood down to <15% moisture. Softer woods are good to go in a year, oak takes two.

So your stacks are 8'x10'?

 

[turnkey4099]

I am new to oak, just finished cutting the limbs off a 5' diameter oak. Got aobut 2 cord from just the limbs. What is the drying time approx. It will be stacked 1 row crosswise of theprevailing wind in full sun. Climate is semi arid (about 16" moisture/yr) with 6 months dry (only occasional t-storm), and 6 month of sorta wet season.

Base log measured out at 4.5'x25' solid with no rot. It will be left as I do not have a saw big enough to work it up. Watch 'Craig's List, Spokane, wa as the farmer intends to post it there.

 

[rarefish383]

I just bucked up a big Oak log. My 36" bar almost made it through, but they were still too heavy to move, so I noodled them. I used the MS290 with 20" bar for the noodles. I wouldn't loose that log because of size. I could have pulled the whole log up on the trailer in 8' sections. Except the reason they took it down was the tree split in half so the log was ruined to mill. Just like eating an elephant, one bite at a time.

 

[NSMaple1]

I am new to oak, just finished cutting the limbs off a 5' diameter oak. Got aobut 2 cord from just the limbs. What is the drying time approx. It will be stacked 1 row crosswise of theprevailing wind in full sun. Climate is semi arid (about 16" moisture/yr) with 6 months dry (only occasional t-storm), and 6 month of sorta wet season.

Base log measured out at 4.5'x25' solid with no rot. It will be left as I do not have a saw big enough to work it up. Watch 'Craig's List, Spokane, wa as the farmer intends to post it there.

Man that would be hard to walk away from especially since you are right there working at it anyway. Know anybody with a big saw that would come in and make a few cuts for you? 17 should do it nicely. I might even think about renting a big saw for a few hours.

 

[rarefish383]

Man that would be hard to walk away from especially since you are right there working at it anyway. Know anybody with a big saw that would come in and make a few cuts for you? 17 should do it nicely. I might even think about renting a big saw for a few hours.

I agree. Turnkey has a pretty good stable. If there are no time constraints on getting it gone, I'd just noodle it up at my pace. We put in about 2 1/2 hours on the log above yesterday. I think there are 7-8 rounds left. Those last few will have more wood in them than the rest of the tree that we already took. It is heavy and I cut it down to about 70 pound pieces. Brian is about 10 years younger than me, and he was ready to drop when we finished. If I could take it at my own pace I'd get it. I did use my 660 with 36" bar on all of the 30+" cuts. After that I went to the MS290 with 20" bar, because I didn't want to dull the 36, takes too long to sharpen.

 

[Marine5068]

Am about to stack newly cut and split oak and hope to use a wood pallet base. I considered trying a round pile but there end to end to coner seems to be enough negative feedback regarding slower drying, especially in the center, as well as some stability issues that a traditional pile layout might be a better plan.

So the question is, considering that pallets are 40"x 48", whether it will dry effectively if I run two rows of splits butt to butt to effectively use the pallets. If so can the rows tough or should there be a continuous space? Obvioulsy the pile will be more stable if the rows touch, or are atleast tied together every so often.

I'm trying to get it dry in a year or so. The wood mostly from dying trees so it's currently in the high 20% moisture range.

Oak will take two years. Always leave a gap between rows for airflow.

 

[turnkey4099]

I agree. Turnkey has a pretty good stable. If there are no time constraints on getting it gone, I'd just noodle it up at my pace. We put in about 2 1/2 hours on the log above yesterday. I think there are 7-8 rounds left. Those last few will have more wood in them than the rest of the tree that we already took. It is heavy and I cut it down to about 70 pound pieces. Brian is about 10 years younger than me, and he was ready to drop when we finished. If I could take it at my own pace I'd get it. I did use my 660 with 36" bar on all of the 30+" cuts. After that I went to the MS290 with 20" bar, because I didn't want to dull the 36, takes too long to sharpen.

After cutting a couiple prop limbs the farmer rolled itdown off the hill side. It didn't look as daunting on near flat land. I was working it with a 32" bar but the chains were down almost to the reference mark and I'm sure the rakers need lowering. Prediction is for wet weatehr starting thursday so no access after that until after harvest next year. If still there I will offer to cut it up then. I don't need the wood but had never had an opportunity to cut oak before, most of my wooding is in clearing willow patches.

Farmer will be putting it on Craig's List.

Project tomorrrow is to sort through all the chains and those that are on their last legs will go to somewere for grinding - I dont care if they come back hardened. It would be their last sharpening anyhow.

 

[sb47]

I am new to oak, just finished cutting the limbs off a 5' diameter oak. Got aobut 2 cord from just the limbs. What is the drying time approx. It will be stacked 1 row crosswise of theprevailing wind in full sun. Climate is semi arid (about 16" moisture/yr) with 6 months dry (only occasional t-storm), and 6 month of sorta wet season.

Base log measured out at 4.5'x25' solid with no rot. It will be left as I do not have a saw big enough to work it up. Watch 'Craig's List, Spokane, wa as the farmer intends to post it there.

There are only a few factors at work here Climate conditions and what state the wood is in. Is it logs, cut rounds (and size of the rounds) is it split, where it is stored, how it's stacked, location of stored wood and weather conditions.

 

[sb47]

Oak will take two years. Always leave a gap between rows for airflow.

Drying times vary according to many factors. Not all oak takes 2 years to season.

 

[sb47]

I split and stack it outside, in full sun, in single rows for about 6 to 9 months, then move it to a barn or shed for long term storage. Once it's dry, I like to keep it dry. Having it sitting outside in the elements will reduce its shelf life.

 

[Toy4xchris]

When I stack on my pallets I end up with around a 4-6 inch gap between the ends with 2 rows. Although my pallets are not typical 40x48 the are 4ft by 7ft that I got from a local printing shop assuming for paper rolls or something. Lately I have been lazy and just throwing the splits into a pile though.

 

[turnkey4099]

There are only a few factors at work here Climate conditions and what state the wood is in. Is it logs, cut rounds (and size of the rounds) is it split, where it is stored, how it's stacked, location of stored wood and weather conditions.

I hope to have it split ans stacked by spring, crosswise of prevailing wind in one long rick and in full sun, semi arid climate. Hoping it will be dry enought to furn next fall.

Almost done working the 4" and down sticks from the limbs, finish tomorrow. 1/4 to 1/3 cord just in that small stuff. Sorted chains and 5 are going to the grinder with instructions to also do the rakers. I suspect that is why I had such a struggle cutting the big limbs, crotches.

 

[Streblerm]

So your stacks are 8'x10'?

Give or take depending on my selection of pallets. I’ll snap I picture once the sun comes up.

 

[NSMaple1]

I hope to have it split ans stacked by spring, crosswise of prevailing wind in one long rick and in full sun, semi arid climate. Hoping it will be dry enought to furn next fall.

Almost done working the 4" and down sticks from the limbs, finish tomorrow. 1/4 to 1/3 cord just in that small stuff. Sorted chains and 5 are going to the grinder with instructions to also do the rakers. I suspect that is why I had such a struggle cutting the big limbs, crotches.

Might depend on which way your prevailing wind is, but I have better luck with my stacks turned the other way. So the wind is blowing against the end of the stack & across the ends of the wood. Which also means (usually) that wind driven rain doesn't get blown into the sides of the stacks, rather only the much smaller end of the stack gets it. And since here that is more or less a N/S orientation, each side of the stack gets sun through the day.

 

[rarefish383]

Might depend on which way your prevailing wind is, but I have better luck with my stacks turned the other way. So the wind is blowing against the end of the stack & across the ends of the wood. Which also means (usually) that wind driven rain doesn't get blown into the sides of the stacks, rather only the much smaller end of the stack gets it. And since here that is more or less a N/S orientation, each side of the stack gets sun through the day.

Never thought of it, but the wind blowing over the ends is where all the water is lost. Very little water is lost from the sides. That's why it takes milled lumber so long to air dry. The cells on the end loose water and start to shrink, causing cracks. Milled lumber is painted on the ends to slow down the process, causing less cracks. Never noticed any cracks on the sides.